1976 C-10 Cooling Issues

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2007st1300abs

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Hello guys I am a new member here and I'm enjoying the forum so far...... I have recently purchased a 1976 Chevrolet c-10 2 wd short box stepside, with a 350 v-8 th350 transmission. The issue that I'm having is that it seems to be running a bit hot. The truck has a new factory rad recently installed by the preveous owner, with a transcooler in the rad. It also has a vintage ac system setup in the truck also, but the biggest problem that I can see is that the trans cooler and condenser pretty much cover most of the rad causing lack of air flow.......... It is supposed to have a 160 thermostat with a fan that has no clutch so it is always turning , I have not verified that it actually has a 160 stat yet. I have seen temps at 210 and under. What can I do to improve this setup or change it to drop my temps to around 190-200 if possible?

Thanks
Chris
 

79K10

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210 sounds right on to me... Mine usually hangs out around 205-215ish


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350runner

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If you want to keep it at the t stat rating you will need an aluminium radiator and electric fans. If going that route I'd suggest getting agm an battery and a 140 amp alternator. It will cost but it's worth every penny and the temp will stay stable with ac on as well.

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MadOgre

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I dunno. I have a 2 core factory rad with the trans cooler built in. I run a 195 T-stat in a 350 and it is always around 200-205* With a clutch fan and an auxiliary trans cooler

I previously had run the solid fan and a 180 T-stat and I could never get it warm enough to run smooth.

If you have a 160 T-stat and you have temps of 210 I would replace the T-stat with a FAIL SAFE T-stat. Cause you really shouldn't be that warm with a 160.

Couple things to check.

Is the rad in good condition with out any clogging? Maybe clean it out good. Remove it and use a mild solvent and flush lots! In opposite directions.

Is your timing properly set? Bad timing can cause an engine to run hot.

Is your carb tuned properly? Improper A/F mixture can cause an engine to run hot.

Is your T-stat functioning properly? I only use "fail safe" T-stats. Some guys drill holes in the flange to prevent them from completely blocking flow in the event that they fail.

Is your heater core plumbed properly to aid in the functioning of the T-stat? The top port beside the T-stat housing on the intake manifold should supply the heater core via the smaller diameter hose and the heater core should return to the radiator via the larger hose. What this does is cycle coolant through the intake manifold near the bottom of the T-stat to ensure that the T-stat senses the proper temp and allows it to function properly.


And lastly Install an auxiliary trans cooler to help dissipate heat from the cooling system and extend the life of your tranny! An auxiliary cooler should be plumbed as follows: Transmission Hot line goes into the bottom port of auxiliary cooler, top of auxiliary cooler goes to bottom of rad trans cooler, top of rad trans cooler returns to transmission. This allows the extra heat to be removed by the auxiliary cooler first and then returning it through the rad ensures that the transmission is kept at operating temps and not cooled to far below operating temps.
 

350runner

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Good deal mad.

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2007st1300abs

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Hi MadOgre, I still have to check to see if it is a 160 stat or 180.... The rad is new , the timing seems to to ok , but the carb is running a tad rich. The trans cooler is an auxillary and seems to be plumbed correctly. The first thing I would like to do is double check the thermostat first.
 

GTME94

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Rich will help the engine run cooler. Lean runs hot. I'd rather mine run a tad rich to help protect the engine.
 

MadOgre

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Rich will help the engine run cooler. Lean runs hot. I'd rather mine run a tad rich to help protect the engine.

Yep and thanks Ceasar :)
 

2007st1300abs

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This also came to mind the old electric vs non clutched fan setup.... any pros or cons to each setup?
 

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