14 Bolt Full Float / Semi Float Identification

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TRokk

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10 Bolt Front Axle with 8 Lug

The 10 bolt front is used for both 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks, with only the hubs different for the lug patterns. 1-ton has the Dana 60.

Well if you take a look at the Jimmy in my signature, that is my rig. and the front axle has an 8lug so would that mean I have a Dana 60 up front with Warn locking hubs?
 

modernbeat

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...And the number's on the right side, I don't understand what they are supposed to mean?

Those numbers are know as the "bill of materials" and refer to the part numbers used to build that axle. It's sort of like RPO codes for axles.
 

83GMCK2500

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I have a 14b back axle that has a ratio of 3.73, but also guys its an 8 lug, 3/4 ton axle.
so this would be a FF right?

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And the number's on the right side, I don't understand what they are supposed to mean?

Use the first picture in this thread as a reference. Two VERY distinct housings on these axles. BOTH are 3/4ton and 8 lug, you have to look beyond that.

Numbers on the right side of that pic you posted aren't important (ultimately) they are probably referring to the ones stamped in the tube during production.
 

83GMCK2500

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Well if you take a look at the Jimmy in my signature, that is my rig. and the front axle has an 8lug so would that mean I have a Dana 60 up front with Warn locking hubs?

You do not have a Dana 60, I can see that much in your picture. It is either a GM Corporate design 10-bolt, or a Dana 44. A picture of the front housing/cover would help.
 

HotRodPC

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You do not have a Dana 60, I can see that much in your picture. It is either a GM Corporate design 10-bolt, or a Dana 44. A picture of the front housing/cover would help.

True. Just cuz it's 8 lug does NOT mean it's a Dana 60. 1 tons got the 8 lug Dana 60 front, 3/4 tons got the 8 lug Dana 44 up to transition year of 78 and Corporate 10 bolt fronts after that.
 

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I also have a 14 bolt ff 8 lug in my 73 gmc 2500, according to the tag on my inner fender, it has the Eaton diff option. Whats that?...I know who/what Eaton is...just curious what this option was and how its better...Thanks!
 

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I also have a 14 bolt ff 8 lug in my 73 gmc 2500, according to the tag on my inner fender, it has the Eaton diff option. Whats that?...I know who/what Eaton is...just curious what this option was and how its better...Thanks!

Probably an Eaton Limited Slip Differential, or Locking Diff. I'm not sure what unit GM was using in 73. It's my understanding the G80 Gov Lock didn't come about until 80.
 

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its a 2wd fyi...
 

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Probably an Eaton Limited Slip Differential, or Locking Diff. I'm not sure what unit GM was using in 73. It's my understanding the G80 Gov Lock didn't come about until 80.

That gov lock.. Is it worth keeping? can a person rebuild them ? any more info on it would be greatly appreciated.. While changing the diff oil tonight i found that i have a gov lock . This is going to be mostly a farm and bush truck.. i would prefer a tight posi over a locker as its easier on them when you have a load of fire wood or a stack of hay..
 

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I'll go out on a limb and against what everyone else is likely to tell you, but hey, I got balls so I'll take the heat. In all honesty, it's true the Gov-Lok is a hunk of ****. But, I've seen an 80 GMC 1/2 ton 12 bolt with one that worked perfect just before I sold the rear end a few years ago and who knows many thousands of miles were on it. I bought it from an old man who bought the truck new. I've seen it in 2 different Full Floaters and it was in good shape and worked well. No, it's not the most favorable of Lockers/LSD units, BUT for a farm truck and what you mention you're going to use the truck for, I'd go with it and leave it alone. If you're truck is an 81 and it's worked all these years and it's still working.....if it ain't broke don't fix it. Know whutta mean??? And I expect it'll work out just fine for you on the farm. So save your money and keep what you got.

If you want to test it, get the truck on some level concrete. Jack up one tire on the rear end with a floor jack and make sure it's off the ground about 2-3 inches. Foot on the brake, in 2hi, but it in D and slowly let off the brake then give it a little gas and drive the truck on the floor jack for a few feet. You can expect to hear a clunk when it locks up just before it takes off moving. If manual trans, just slowly let the clutch out like your trying to take off and drive it on the jack. If it moves 4-5 feet or at all actually, you know it's working. Reason I say slowly let off the brake and ease into the gas, or slowly let the clutch out, you don't want to slam it and damage the unit.

Of course you can also test the regular way just finding some slick dirt, gravel, mud or snow and give it hell and see what happens.
 

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Thanks for that info Hot rod.. This unit has 70000 ish miles on it.. Not sure if it spins or not.. roads here are so slick i can spin all six on my dodge dually..

I will check out the rear end when it warms up as my garage is the only concrete around here...This way i can point the truck out the door for launch..
 

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Thanks for that info Hot rod.. This unit has 70000 ish miles on it.. Not sure if it spins or not.. roads here are so slick i can spin all six on my dodge dually..

I will check out the rear end when it warms up as my garage is the only concrete around here...This way i can point the truck out the door for launch..

:signs8: Don't launch it. Just go easy with that test on the floor jack. It's normal for it to spin half a turn or so, you just don't want it to slam when it grabs the other axle. That's how you can break the governor lock or maybe even strip teeth on the wheel.
 

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:signs8: Don't launch it. Just go easy with that test on the floor jack. It's normal for it to spin half a turn or so, you just don't want it to slam when it grabs the other axle. That's how you can break the governor lock or maybe even strip teeth on the wheel.

I will go easy on it.. :High 5:
 

HotRodPC

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I will go easy on it.. :High 5:

You'll probably feel the clunck when it grabs the other axle which should happen pretty quick after letting your foot off the brake, then just lightly give it gas and it should move on 1 wheel, the other wheel will be moving too but up in the air. That's how you know it works. If it were an open diff, the truck won't move but only the wheel in the air would move.
 

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Dragging this one out of mothballs.

I have one point of contention with the picture of what is called the G80 gov-lock. That looks more like a old Trak- lock ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cur-94080?seid=srese1&gclid=CM7u16LNvL8CFQYxaQodbn0AQw ). Upon further investigation I see the newer style is called a Eaton gov-lock too. It works just like the official 'gov-lock' did, only better.

My old 14FF's had a regular(ish) looking carrier with a fly weight type deal on it to engage the gov-lock. That is the only style of gov-lock I am familiar with. The gov-lock would engage at a roughly 1-3 mile an hour side-to-side discrepancy in wheel speed and stay engaged until both wheels were turning roughly 20 mph at which point it would disengage. Mine worked great with my 39's. It moved the lock-up point to the faster speed's of 3-5 mph and about 24 mph disengage. I was told once that the point of the gov-lock was not for off-road but for snow and ice driving. It wasn't strong enough to act as a locker despite it's name. But for slick conditions it worked great.

Gov-lock
 

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