11" brake drum question

[Rotten 1]

Started a complete replacement of the rear brakes this morning and possibly running into a real issue. The old drums have the access slot for the adjuster in the drum itself - there is no access through the back plate. The new drums, and everything I can find online (LMC, Rock Auto, O'Reilly, Summit) do not have the access slot in the drum. My fear is that if I do install these drums - they may be nearly impossible to ever get off again once the shoes start wearing into the drum.

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Am I thinking about this incorrectly?

Any idea on source to get the right drums?

Secondly - the driver's side drum comes off with no issue, the passenger side wiggles just the smallest amount. I've back off the adjuster as far as it will go and still no luck, and tips on next step to get that drum off?

Thanks

 

[Goldie Driver]

I follow your thought process on the new drums without the adjuster. I could see it being a problem if the brakes go bad, but if you are redoing the shoes and putting new drums on you should have 50K or so before you even have to worry about it. Maybe plan on an inspection every 10K ?

On that passenger side, the drum may be "welded" to the axle flange by rust. A few good taps ought to help if so with a ball peen between the studs. It may also be that the shoes are grabbing on the drum due to grooves. If so, wiggling more firmly may be the answer. Prying with a screw driver from the back may help. I am sure others will chime in with additional methods.

Best of luck !

 

[Sad Sack]

Started a complete replacement of the rear brakes this morning and possibly running into a real issue. The old drums have the access slot for the adjuster in the drum itself - there is no access through the back plate. The new drums, and everything I can find online (LMC, Rock Auto, O'Reilly, Summit) do not have the access slot in the drum. My fear is that if I do install these drums - they may be nearly impossible to ever get off again once the shoes start wearing into the drum.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Am I thinking about this incorrectly?

Any idea on source to get the right drums?

Secondly - the driver's side drum comes off with no issue, the passenger side wiggles just the smallest amount. I've back off the adjuster as far as it will go and still no luck, and tips on next step to get that drum off?

Thanks

Without the adjuster opening. to collapse the shoes would require grinding off or cutting off the hold-down nail heads (no big deal) on the back plate in case shoes are "stuck" to drum. Plus they are cheap to replace.

 

[Rotten 1]

Thanks guys - at least I have options with the drums I already have. Any thoughts on try to drill out an access hole in the backing plate? How bad could that go for me?

 

[Sad Sack]

Thanks guys - at least I have options with the drums I already have. Any thoughts on try to drill out an access hole in the backing plate? How bad could that go for me?

Very carefully...measure twice cut once.

 

[legopnuematic]

Do you have new drums in hand? IIRC, the ones I put on my 76 and 79 (one is jb3 the other is jb5) have the knockout in them, not yet knocked out yet.

You could trace the original slot and mark and drill/dremel/file the slot in the new drums.

 

[Rotten 1]

Do you have new drums in hand? IIRC, the ones I put on my 76 and 79 (one is jb3 the other is jb5) have the knockout in them, not yet knocked out yet.

You could trace the original slot and mark and drill/dremel/file the slot in the new drums.

My concern there was whether it would impact wheel balance and cause other issues. But of course, the current drums have the hole in them, so it may come down to where it is easier to drill and Dremel.

 

[Sad Sack]

Like @Goldie Driver said if all components are in tip top shape, should be no worries for a long time, get drums to just slide on and do a quick few reverse sudden stops to adjust.

 

[legopnuematic]

The area the slot is in should be a fairly thin area of the casting, like 1/8” or less. It would change the balance, but not enough to cause concern. Assuming the new drums are really balanced to begin with (hopefully they are, but I’ve seen plenty of new ones that are far, far from being balanced.

 

[Rotten 1]

Update - passenger drum succumbs to percussive persuasion and came right off. My thought is to replace all the components and once everything is off - look at a drill/dremel approach to the backing plate for future adjustments. Or just reassemble and plan for a regular inspection.

thanks guys - you are really helping me get back into automotive projects

 

[justhorns]

When I do drum brakes, and during final assembly I just adjust the adjuster so the drum goes on with a little resistance. If it won't go on, loosen the adjuster. If the drum goes on easily, expand the adjuster till its snug. With this method, you don't need to worry for a long time. As the drums should always come off, check the brakes at each tire change or removal.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

I've always done the backing plate slot.. two holes with a drill bit, then a little die grinder action. There's a rubber plug available to fit it .

 

[Rotten 1]

Rear brakes are done and based on the first test drive- they work. Thanks for the tips and guidance, having pulled everything apart and reassembling - I feel like I understand the braking system much better and I'm ready for a few more projects on Old Yeller