Removing engine and trans.

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Terry Wilkerson

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Someone posted the steps to remove engine and trans a while back. Please repost this as I am at that point on my LS swap. Thanks in advance.
 

sickchev

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It wasn't me that posted it but I can try to help you out.

I usually start at the back and work my way forward. I'll give you the main points I can remember and it should get you close.

1. Disconnect drive shaft - tape up u-joints

2. Unbolt the trans from the cross member

3.Disconnect trans cooler lines

4.Disconnect trans linkage from auto shifter (if automatic)
Remove floor shift lever (if manual )

Disconnect 4x4 linkage (if needed)

Helpful but not required- Remove trans tunnel if it's a bolt in type pan. You can gain some clearance with it out.

Remove your hood

Disconnect bulk head wiring to engine. Mark with tape and write where they went. Even if ls swap. You will need some of them later.
(Starter, distributer, Alternator, water temp, oil pressure, main battery feed. Battery to block ground.

Disconnect vacum line from brake booster

Disconnect ground straps from engine to cab (passenger side I think)

Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump

Disconnect lower radiator hose. Have a bucket ready.
Disconnect heater hoses and upper radiator hose.

At this point your mostly free.
Connect you lift chains and picker.

Lift a few cranks to start pulling the weight off the engine mounts but no so much it binds.

Pull the long clam shell mount bolts out and up you go.

Technically you can get it out with a lot of pulling, cussing, twisting, more cussing, prying, inventing new cuss words. Scraping the hell out of your trans pan on the top of your core support.

I highly recommend if you have the space to remove the front clip ( core support, fenders) it will make your life so much easier. Yes you will have to put it back together and line up you body panel gaps. (Keep track of how many body shims used) So keep that in mind. It's more work but I usually do it.



.
 

Camar068

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It wasn't me that posted it but I can try to help you out.

I usually start at the back and work my way forward. I'll give you the main points I can remember and it should get you close.

1. Disconnect drive shaft - tape up u-joints

2. Unbolt the trans from the cross member

3.Disconnect trans cooler lines

4.Disconnect trans linkage from auto shifter (if automatic)
Remove floor shift lever (if manual )

Disconnect 4x4 linkage (if needed)

Helpful but not required- Remove trans tunnel if it's a bolt in type pan. You can gain some clearance with it out.

Remove your hood

Disconnect bulk head wiring to engine. Mark with tape and write where they went. Even if ls swap. You will need some of them later.
(Starter, distributer, Alternator, water temp, oil pressure, main battery feed. Battery to block ground.

Disconnect vacum line from brake booster

Disconnect ground straps from engine to cab (passenger side I think)

Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump

Disconnect lower radiator hose. Have a bucket ready.
Disconnect heater hoses and upper radiator hose.

At this point your mostly free.
Connect you lift chains and picker.

Lift a few cranks to start pulling the weight off the engine mounts but no so much it binds.

Pull the long clam shell mount bolts out and up you go.

Technically you can get it out with a lot of pulling, cussing, twisting, more cussing, prying, inventing new cuss words. Scraping the hell out of your trans pan on the top of your core support.

I highly recommend if you have the space to remove the front clip ( core support, fenders) it will make your life so much easier. Yes you will have to put it back together and line up you body panel gaps. (Keep track of how many body shims used) So keep that in mind. It's more work but I usually do it.



.
Good info. I always start up front and save the drive shaft/crossmember out for last as I know it's gonna leak fluid out the trans. At that point it's a "lets get it out quick" for less of a mess.
 

sickchev

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Good info. I always start up front and save the drive shaft/crossmember out for last as I know it's gonna leak fluid out the trans. At that point it's a "lets get it out quick" for less of a mess.
Yeah I guess I forgot to mention I usually keep a variety of old yokes around that I stick back in the trans after I drop the shafts out.
 

Camar068

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Yeah I guess I forgot to mention I usually keep a variety of old yokes around that I stick back in the trans after I drop the shafts out.
yeh I need to get one lol
 

Craig Nedrow

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I did that a couple times, Here is what I did.....
Start at post #6. You can pull the engine without taking off the front, Just wanted to clean mine up, and not scrape the firewall or rad support. Help's alot to get an adjustable engine puller so you can tilt the engine as you pull it out. Got mine from summit.
like this one.
 

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