I broke my new truck

crpntr78 said:

Also, there is a fusible link around the steering column on the engine side of the firewall. Check that as well. Had one blow there when I hooked the battery up backwards. Same symptoms as you describe.

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I am very close to getting a mechanic. I will check the fusible link around the steering column,

OK! I got one of those fancy test lights. So I tested the fuse box with my ignition key in OFF:

These fuses get power (light turns on):
• HORN/DM
• TL/CTSY
• PWR ACC
And the Yellow wire in the stereo connector. Basically horn works, lights work, dash lights work.

These fuses get no power (no light when stuck on either end of where the fuse goes):
• IGN
• INST LPS
• IGN/GAUGES
• PWR WND

Question: Do the cables that go into the ignition of the truck NOT go through the fuse box?

What should I test next? Ideas?

Juan Cano said:

OK! I got one of those fancy test lights. So I tested the fuse box with my ignition key in OFF:

These fuses get power (light turns on):
• HORN/DM
• TL/CTSY
• PWR ACC
And the Yellow wire in the stereo connector. Basically horn works, lights work, dash lights work.

These fuses get no power (no light when stuck on either end of where the fuse goes):
• IGN
• INST LPS
• IGN/GAUGES
• PWR WND

Question: Do the cables that go into the ignition of the truck NOT go through the fuse box?

What should I test next? Ideas?

Click to expand...

Sounds like you blew a fusible link at the starter or at the power block mounted to the firewall above the brake booster. If you were messing around with the column without having the battery disconnected, you probably shorted something out and blew one of those links.

FIXEEEED!!!!!!!

Dang that was hard.

Nothing to do at all with what I was working on on the dash gauge area. So I started figuring out what the heck fusible links were, so I found the one on the engine side on the other side of the wall, I wiggled it, went back to the truck and now the engine lights and vents turned on! But truck didn't start. So the fusible link was all holding on like 2 wires. So I cut it, put it back together (I just used a splice; I guess I need to do it differently, fancier?). Anyway, truck still didn't start but it was better.

I found a troubleshooting decision tree so next it said to check Voltage on the solenoid. In this truck because of the headers, it's a royal pain to get to the terminals. So I'm under the truck figuring how I can get the multimeter probes in there when I notice a loose wire. WTF? I go outside and flash a light from the engine compartment and notice that one of the solenoid bolt/terminal has the metal hoop end and no wire!!!

Are the bunnies all around my house messing with me? Then I remember that in this whole convoluted process I had managed to use one of those push start testing things to bypass the starter. I am thinking that when I pulled the terminals of the tester they must've pulled out the wire from the solenoid! Just my bleeping luck.

So took the nut off the solenoid (that took 20 minutes, no room to work, no visual, all feel under the truck), put a new end on the wire and presto! Truck runs.

Phew.

Now I am thinking that from messing with that ignition switch, it is not quite in the best position. It feels that I have to turn the key all the way to the very end for the truck to start. Or maybe it's my imagination. I probably leave it alone because it feels like I am just asking for trouble.

Whooohooooo!!! Thanks!

Thanks for posting the results!

I am going to redo the crimp connector I used because I was told that is a no no; so will solder it and wrap it.

So, pack the truck with paddle boards and tons of stuff to go to the beach and.... truck won't shift. Only shifts to R and stops. On or off won't shift. I am so so so pissed off right now. Thought I was done troubleshooting.

I assume the shifting is one of the 2 rods running along the steering column? SIGH.

So if the truck is off, I can move the shifter freely across the gears with the Key in the Acc position (or whatever position this allows it to).

If the truck is ON, it goes from P to R and stops. Truck will move in reverse.

Question:
A) Can somehow a misalignment of the Ignition Switch cause the shifter not to work? From what I read it has nothing to do with shifting, only turning truck on.
B) Is it something to do with the Tilt Column and dropping the column like a dozen times? I never actually lowered it more than like 3 inches because it wouldn't go any lower so I just supported it with my knees when not bolted on.

I never took the steering column apart.

Help! So frustrating.

Forgot to add that when I drop the column those 3 inches, then I can't get it out of Park.

Juan Cano said:

So if the truck is off, I can move the shifter freely across the gears with the Key in the Acc position (or whatever position this allows it to).

If the truck is ON, it goes from P to R and stops. Truck will move in reverse.

Question:
A) Can somehow a misalignment of the Ignition Switch cause the shifter not to work? From what I read it has nothing to do with shifting, only turning truck on.
B) Is it something to do with the Tilt Column and dropping the column like a dozen times? I never actually lowered it more than like 3 inches because it wouldn't go any lower so I just supported it with my knees when not bolted on.

I never took the steering column apart.

Help! So frustrating.

Click to expand...

Something is wrong there. In ACC, the steering and shifter should still be locked.

You mentioned 2 rods on the column- if your dimmer switch is on the column, that is your second rod.

I think you can get to the ignition switch adjustment bolts without dropping the column but the ac ductwork needs to be out of the way. If not, dropping the column should not put the ignition switch in a bind.

Try putting the ignition in neutral and adjusting the switch from that point. If when done, you have start and ACC then it is adjusted correctly.

Then, if you still have shifting problems, your shift linkage may need to be adjusted.

The ignition rod does mechanically prevent the shifter from moving in certain positions.

Hope this helps some .

Britt

Goldie Driver said:

Something is wrong there. In ACC, the steering and shifter should still be locked.

You mentioned 2 rods on the column- if your dimmer switch is on the column, that is your second rod.

I think you can get to the ignition switch adjustment bolts without dropping the column but the ac ductwork needs to be out of the way. If not, dropping the column should not put the ignition switch in a bind.

Try putting the ignition in neutral and adjusting the switch from that point. If when done, you have start and ACC then it is adjusted correctly.

Then, if you still have shifting problems, your shift linkage may need to be adjusted.

The ignition rod does mechanically prevent the shifter from moving in certain positions.

Hope this helps some .

Britt

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Thank you for the advice; will post an update tomorrow.

I don't want to crack (another) bottle of champagne, but truck is running and shifter working properly. I adjusted the ignition switch by shoving it all the way back, and this seems to have done the trick. Cross my fingers.

On a positive note of this Pandora's box odyssey, is that the truck seems to start up first try, not even pushing the gas. Prior to this it would sometimes take 2-3 tries if cold and pushing on the gas. Perhaps it was the failing fusible link, or the solenoid cable that I accidentally yanked off was lose, or the ignition switch setting is better. Or maybe the truck likes me more now.

Thanks!

Juan Cano said:

I don't want to crack (another) bottle of champagne, but truck is running and shifter working properly. I adjusted the ignition switch by shoving it all the way back, and this seems to have done the trick. Cross my fingers.

On a positive note of this Pandora's box odyssey, is that the truck seems to start up first try, not even pushing the gas. Prior to this it would sometimes take 2-3 tries if cold and pushing on the gas. Perhaps it was the failing fusible link, or the solenoid cable that I accidentally yanked off was lose, or the ignition switch setting is better. Or maybe the truck likes me more now.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

You paid the blood , sweat, and tears tax for a month or so.

Good news!
Now go get a fusible link or 2 and fix those right, or the next electrical short will cook some **** you’d rather it not.
looks like the one was already Jerry rigged.

I redid it a second time and soldered it correctly. But will look into a complete replacement; how does it join at the start with the bigger cable?

And today.... my electric windows won't go back up! This has happened a couple times, but now it is not going back up! Rain is coming! So probably a ground issue that I have to chase.