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If you run alloys, the shanked lug nuts and washers make the lug centric. But, you have to retorque them every couple days for 2-3 WEEKS before they settle in and stay tight. Tire size does play a role, as does tread style. A 31” mudder will basically shake the entire front end apart on an ifs truck, 2wd or later 4wd. A 29” HT is smooth as melted butter in a hot toddy based on 100 year old single barrel single malt whiskey.Ford and Dodge wheels have a slightly larger center bore, iirc. The GM dually wheels are hub centric, so you would need center bore spacers with the Ford or Dodge wheels.
Ford and Dodge wheels have a slightly larger center bore, iirc. The GM dually wheels are hub centric, so you would need center bore spacers with the Ford or Dodge wheels.
If you run alloys, the shanked lug nuts and washers make the lug centric. But, you have to retorque them every couple days for 2-3 WEEKS before they settle in and stay tight. Tire size does play a role, as does tread style. A 31” mudder will basically shake the entire front end apart on an ifs truck, 2wd or later 4wd. A 29” HT is smooth as melted butter in a hot toddy based on 100 year old single barrel single malt whiskey.
Aftermarket 8 on 6.5 dually wheels are built to fit bullnose Fords. Or gooseneck trailers, which normally use Ford style hubs.
I don’t know about other owners, but stock steel inners, 2” spacers, then the alloys on my K3500. On a stock 14b ff. Seems to work okay, not like anybody can see the inners courtesy of the mudflaps.Sure, using aluminum wheels that are lug-centric will work... but only on 4 of the wheels. The inside duals will still not have anything to properly center them.