1996 Grand Cherokee transmission rebuild & on to other stuff

[84-C20]

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That picture is for 1996 GC from my reference material. As you can see it is not straight but also not bent where yours is.

 

[WP29P4A]

Pretty sure I already know the answer, but since you have owned your 1996 Grand Cherokee for several years, you are the perfect person to ask. If you had a base model 2003 Ford explorer (main work vehicle)with a 4.0L with 215,000 miles with a fresh transmission, motor with all six timing chains making horrible noises. A rear end that howls like crazy.

Then a client gives you a free 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2L with 162,000 miles in near mint condition, that runs really nice and smooth. I know better than to consider keeping the Explorer, can't believe it lasted this long. Do I keep the Jeep and use it for work because it's great math? Or do I sell them both and buy something newer?

 

[WP29P4A]

It definitely has a ball joint on it, that's why the first time I noticed it when I had one side jacked up, only one was bent. When it sits on the ground both sides are bent/angled.

 

[Ricko1966]

@Grit dog to me a home recharge is a horrible idea,I have 2 vacuum pumps 1 is a harbor freight unit which I bought as a 1 time 1 use deal and my robinaire. I don't know your situation. Whatever you do be sure to pull vacuum on it. Next time you've got an empty A/C system hit it with shop air and listen for leaks and spray suspect areas with soapy water. That will help you find any obvious leaks then pull and hold vacuum if it won't hold vacuum it won't hold freon. If I had time and pieces laying around, I'd build a vacuum pump from and old refrigerator compressor,it would be a better unit than the harbor freight unit.

 

[Bextreme04]

Spose I could rig something out of the old recharge hose and my oil extractor without too much trouble. Heading to Idahoo this weekend so I can grab another recharge kit and bootleg it back into Washifornia….
Thx for the advice!
Reminds me, heater core popped in the GMC too recently. Gotta fix that in the next 4 months lol (and the AC has a slight leak).

I have a cheapo manifold/gauges and vacuum pump I ordered from amazon years ago. It was under $100 and has vacuumed and recharged MANY vehicles at this point. I even used the vacuum pump to pull down a multisplit heat pump I installed in my garage a few years ago. You can also just rent the same thing from one of the big chain auto parts store for free.

 

[84-C20]

Pretty sure I already know the answer, but since you have owned your 1996 Grand Cherokee for several years, you are the perfect person to ask. If you had a base model 2003 Ford explorer (main work vehicle)with a 4.0L with 215,000 miles with a fresh transmission, motor with all six timing chains making horrible noises. A rear end that howls like crazy.

Then a client gives you a free 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.2L with 162,000 miles in near mint condition, that runs really nice and smooth. I know better than to consider keeping the Explorer, can't believe it lasted this long. Do I keep the Jeep and use it for work because it's great math? Or do I sell them both and buy something newer?

I think that's a very subjective answer. If it helps any my GC made it to 275K before needing the transmission rebuilt and the 5.2 engine has never been opened up any further than to do valve cover gaskets.

My feel it that between an 03 Explorer and 96 GC I think the GC is the better built vehicle. It's not perfect, but the Jeep is running the 5.2, which is just the magnum version of the 318, and the overdrive transmissions are built on the old 727 blue print. So it's long standing well know reliable stuff.

If a mid-sized SUV fits suites your needs I'd assess the condition of the Jeep and drive it around for a few months, see how you like it and any problems that crop up and go from there. Keep in mind as well that the gas bill which will be higher than a newer vehicle, but will be nothing compared to the payment on a new or even a newer used vehicle, and the increase in insurance.

Those are my thoughts.

 

[SquareRoot]

I'm kind of a wimp in the heat. I was born and raised here and anything over 74F is just tp hot!

Come visit me next month. 74F is about 10 degrees below the starting point. The only good thing is if you survive the summer you're reaching for a jacket in November when the temp drops back down to 80. lol

 

[SquareRoot]

I have a cheapo manifold/gauges and vacuum pump I ordered from amazon years ago. It was under $100 and has vacuumed and recharged MANY vehicles at this point. I even used the vacuum pump to pull down a multisplit heat pump I installed in my garage a few years ago. You can also just rent the same thing from one of the big chain auto parts store for free.

Same here. Plus I bought a cheap digital scale that I weigh the cans on as I put the refrigerant in.

 

[Grit dog]

@WP29P4A
You didn’t ask my opinion but I agree with @SirRobyn0.
318/360, 45/46re are a good combo for reliability. All things being equal of course.

 

[84-C20]

Come visit me next month. 74F is about 10 degrees below the starting point. The only good thing is if you survive the summer you're reaching for a jacket in November when the temp drops back down to 80. lol

I'm good thanks....

Same here. Plus I bought a cheap digital scale that I weigh the cans on as I put the refrigerant in.

I need to get one. All I have at home is a 30LB can and it is darn hard to get a R134A charge close to right without a scale. At least with @Grit dog he'll be using the small cans so as long as you get it all out of the can and use the correct number of cans it'll be close enough.

 

[Grit dog]

@gritto me a homevrecharge is a horrible idea,I have 2 vacuum pumps 1 is a harbor freight unit which I bought as a 1 time 1 use deal and my robinaire. I don't know your situation. Whatever you do be sure to pull vacuum on it. Next time you've got an empty A/C system hit it with shop air and listen for leaks and spray suspect areas with soapy water. That will help you find any obvious leaks then pull and hold vacuum if it won't hold vacuum it won't hold freon. If I had time and pieces laying around, I'd build a vacuum pump from and old refrigerator compressor,it would be a better unit than the harbor freight unit.

Yeah it was dumb especially since I could see the condenser was damaged…
Would have been too easy to put some low pressure air to it and check for obvious leaks…or a vacuum.

 

[SquareRoot]

Yeah it was dumb especially since I could see the condenser was damaged…
Would have been too easy to put some low pressure air to it and check for obvious leaks…or a vacuum.

You prolly just raised the earths temp by 2 degrees

 

[WP29P4A]

@WP29P4A
You didn’t ask my opinion but I agree with @SirRobyn0.
318/360, 45/46re are a good combo for reliability. All things being equal of course.

So far one of the few complaints I have is wishing it would use 1st gear from a standing start more often and not be so obsessed about prematurely shifting into the next gear, before I get up to speed. Sucks from a standing start but is awesome from 50 mph on up. When it actually uses 1st gear before 2nd gear, it goes pretty well. I really hate computer controlled automatic transmissions that take 4 times longer to think about shifting than I would have.

I liked it better when we had shift levers instead of suggestion levers.

 

[akchevrolet]

My evaporator was about $50. I'd say if you'd even consider getting the A/C working again why not replace it while your in there.

I'm kind of a wimp in the heat. I was born and raised here and anything over 74F is just tp hot!

Shoot I was born and raised in texas and the heat is way too hot.

 

[84-C20]

So far one of the few complaints I have is wishing it would use 1st gear from a standing start more often and not be so obsessed about prematurely shifting into the next gear, before I get up to speed. Sucks from a standing start but is awesome from 50 mph on up. When it actually uses 1st gear before 2nd gear, it goes pretty well. I really hate computer controlled automatic transmissions that take 4 times longer to think about shifting than I would have.

I liked it better when we had shift levers instead of suggestion levers.

This is a super easy fix I think the detent cable is too loose. These trannys are pretty happy to run wherever you set the detent cable. Like the 700R4 there is no vacuum line, but the 42 / 44 / 46RH transmissions don't tend to burn up like the 700's will if misadjusted, though it is harder on them to be misadjusted, it's just not as big a crime as with the 700R4. You need to tighten up that cable a couple clicks. You can mark it with a white metal marking pen if you want so you can get it back where it was if you don't like the changes. But push in the button and pull the cable towards the firewall. That'll make it shift up a little later. The cables stretch overtime and if not re-adjusted results in early upshifts, most noticeable on the 1 - 2 shift typically. If you get it to tight it'll be to easy to for it to downshift at speed and it'll tend to want to hunt between drive and OD. So you'll know if you over due it. I bet you'll end up adjusting it tighter a few times before it's where it needs to be, but a little at a time is best.

Notice I said these Jeeps have the RH designated transmission not the RE RH is hydraulic controlled, RE is electronic. Grand Cherokee's did not see the RE version until 1998.

If tightening the detent cable doesn't help then it's got something sticking in the valve body. But try with the cable first, and mark it so you can get it back where it was if need be.