I am not the OP here. I just have a similar question and i found this thread instead of making a new one. anyhow my truck is a 1985 k20. no cats. no emissions testing where i live. it has a holly 600 carb on it with vortec head. here are a few pics under the hood. I am in the process of replacing the ignition parts and cleaning up the engine. also i recently bought the truck and not totally sure exactly what was done to it.
But if you want some pro tips, is your Booster vacuum line rated for brake booster? thats a long section of rubber line if the walls arent strong they could collapse under heavy vacuum and this would cause weird behavior on your brakes probably. If needed, Use a short section of tubing between the carb and the carbon fume filter to shorten the amount of hose used.
Also, I see a PCV with no breather or thing in the opposite corner of the driver side valve cover to complete the system? Is your passenger valve cover have 2 openings on it? Basically if your PCV valve is there you would need a tube and grommet to your air cleaner or a push in filter for that corner to allow air to pull into the crankcase. diagnolly is the name of the pcv game.
also your heater hoses, are they proper heater hose? they look almost like they maybe arent, but if they are thats ok. I would toss a new 15 psi cap on your system, that looks old. Also, your overflow hose is confusing me a bit, it doesnt look like a coolant hose either especialy a low pressure overflow tube. if you can, putting your overflow on the pass side would be way shorter to run and you can probably find a factory type reservoir that would screw into your core support over there. Just an idea.
Electrical, your setup is concerning.
You always want the ground post to be closest to the core support/fender and the positive to be closer to the engine, if it shifted or something fell, it wouldnt be shorting to power only adding a temporary ground connection. New cables may be wise. Engine block to neg, engine to firewall(both heads is best), frame to battery neg, and fender to battery neg are a good group of things to do for your grounding. The cable from the alt bracket to the battery is a common one for sure, just ensure the bracket itself is cleanly connected to the engine and the alternator is well connected to the bracket. Then bracket cleanly to battery. Otherwise adding more engine-to-bracket grounds could help but you have a low amount of electronics, youre good probably.
Hose clamps. Screw clamps should be avoided, Tbar, Fuel injection, constant tension(mubea) and similar clamps are superior but if you have no leaks you can cheat it for a while. Just know that screw clamps will usually bite in over time and then weep because the hose isnt held as strongly.
You also are possibly missing a rubber seal on your cowl/firewall/hood interface, but i dont have an 81+ so I may be wrong on that, but it looks strange
Also your brake master cylinder is seemingly from an older truck, does this truck have big or small rear drums and whats the gvw do you know?
Also, can you send a pic of your distributor weights, I see you have that apart.