A/C vs Non AC kick panel vent door

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Joshua Keith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Posts
373
Reaction score
534
Location
Memphis
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
I ordered a kick panel vent from USA1 Industries and what was sent appears to be the vent door for the non-a/c version. I also ordered the kick panel gasket and it came with a peel-off adhesive that was placed on the incorrect side. USA1 industries went 0 for 2 on this one. :/ Am I mistaken and the door is universal? LMC truck has the same exact part # for their ac and non ac trucks as well. Took 2 weeks to get here...hoping for some good news. Haven’t been able to find an aftermarket a/c version yet.

Here’s the vent left is the original, right is the new

https://imgur.com/gallery/gW9RYXM
 

Goldie Driver

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2018
Posts
3,924
Reaction score
6,375
Location
Houston, Texas
First Name
Britt
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
GMC K1500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
Guess I am confused- as far as I knew, factory a/c trucks don't have those floor vents.

Goldie does not - factory a/c.

?

Britt
 

Joshua Keith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Posts
373
Reaction score
534
Location
Memphis
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Guess I am confused- as far as I knew, factory a/c trucks don't have those floor vents.

Goldie does not - factory a/c.

?

Britt

Mine is an 85 so they must’ve put it in later on. There is only one and it’s on the passenger side. There’s a vent door opened by vacuum when the a/c is put on max air I believe. Beautiful truck btw! There is a post I found on hotrod.com but they didn’t explain how they converted the door over or how they connected the modulator to the door. :/

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/revamping-a-1985-c10-silverado-interior-with-lmc-truck/amp/
 

Joshua Keith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Posts
373
Reaction score
534
Location
Memphis
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Yeah, yours definitely has one too. It’s behind that round pc of trim.
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,889
Reaction score
4,024
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
@Goldie Driver you do have this door. It's behind the half circle dome in the right kick panel.

@Joshua Keith I bought the same items from LMC and had the exact issues. I was able to figure out the gasket, it was actually correct but it took 5-6 tries to get it right. The doors are totally different though. The non- A/C door has the flange on a horizontal plain and has the bar built in. As you can see from the picture, A/C doors have a hi-lo set up.

I tried to make the non-A/C door work by removing the bar that ties the flanges together, but I didn't like the working angles, so I cleaned up and re-used my OEM one (rubber was still good). The issue I had was the return spring was interfering with the arm above it. I was pressed for time getting my truck back together, but it wouldn't be too hard to make it work.

A/C Door
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Joshua Keith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Posts
373
Reaction score
534
Location
Memphis
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
@Goldie Driver you do have this door. It's behind the half circle dome in the right kick panel.

@Joshua Keith I bought the same items from LMC and had the exact issues. I was able to figure out the gasket, it was actually correct but it took 5-6 tries to get it right. The doors are totally different though. The non- A/C door has the flange on a horizontal plain and has the bar built in. As you can see from the picture, A/C doors have a hi-lo set up.

I tried to make the non-A/C door work by removing the bar that ties the flanges together, but I didn't like the working angles, so I cleaned up and re-used my OEM one (rubber was still good). The issue I had was the return spring was interfering with the arm above it. I was pressed for time getting my truck back together, but it wouldn't be too hard to make it work.

A/C Door
You must be registered for see images attach


Man, I tried both! I boiled the old oem door and tried to straighten out the rubber edges( they were curled and dried up) but the new seal sealed up that hole so well. I had cab leak issues and wanted to prevent any water coming back into the cab. I’m currently redoing the flooring. You’re not going to believe this, but I’m using a zip tie right now to connect the modulator arm to the door and it’s working...hate it, but Its working
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,889
Reaction score
4,024
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
I had an issue with water leakage at the bottom of the old gasket for the plastic kick panel. Due to being parked for 10+ years in the hot California sun before I got it, the gasket had totally dried out and was weeping water into the cab. The new gasket resolved this problem.
 

Turbo4whl

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Posts
2,837
Reaction score
6,352
Location
Downingtown, PA
First Name
Wayne
Truck Year
1974
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Try reversing the spring end for end.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,889
Reaction score
4,024
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
Try reversing the spring end for end.

I had actually tried that. The problem is the two tabs you see here on the A/C version the tabs are in different planes. When you use the other style door, they are parallel and cause the spring bind. I'm sure a smaller diameter spring with the same tension would work.
 

Joshua Keith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Posts
373
Reaction score
534
Location
Memphis
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Yeah, I could see how there would be a bind issue, but somehow this is working. I think it’s because the zip tie is able to bend when it hits the spring. Trying to figure out a better way to do this tho.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Craig 85

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Posts
3,889
Reaction score
4,024
Location
Nashville, TN
First Name
Craig
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K30 SRW
Engine Size
454/TH-400/NP205
I had removed the bar that ties the tabs together and used that one instead of the OEM rod you replaced with the zip tie. I had also reversed the direction of that screw on the pivot arm. If what you have works, I think I'd leave the zip tie. No reason to over engineer it. The only time this door gets opened is when you have the A/C on max.
 

Joshua Keith

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Posts
373
Reaction score
534
Location
Memphis
First Name
Joshua
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Thanks for the advice! Don’t even have a/c yet lol Main goal was just to prevent leakage. A/c install happening in the spring

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,158
Reaction score
15,957
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350
Use a coat hanger.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
41,849
Posts
903,432
Members
33,362
Latest member
Dhatch84
Top