L59 swapping into 86 K5. Crossmember?

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Pender1

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I'm picking up a L59 out of a 2002 Tahoe and I haven't found a conclusive answer on whether I'll have oil pan/ crossmember interference. Anybody have any knowledge?
 
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Jrgunn5150

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Depends on what mounts you use.

Alot of people just stack some washers and space the engine up to get the clearance they need.
 

RoryH19

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I have a LQ9 (6.0)/4L65E from an Escalade in my 82 k5.
No issues with oil pan, just use the motor mount adaptor brackets that move the engine back ~1".
I used a different transfer case cross member since I went from NP208 to NP241.
Able to reuse both original drive shafts.
 

4WDKC

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I have a LQ9 (6.0)/4L65E from an Escalade in my 82 k5.
No issues with oil pan, just use the motor mount adaptor brackets that move the engine back ~1".
I used a different transfer case cross member since I went from NP208 to NP241.
Able to reuse both original drive shafts.

I thought the 208 and 241 were the same just manual and electronic
 

Jrgunn5150

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I thought the 208 and 241 were the same just manual and electronic


No, the 208 is older, slightly different. The 243 is a electronic 241.
 

RoryH19

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No, the 208 is older, slightly different. The 243 is a electronic 241.
Right NP208 is older and not quite as durable as the NP241.
Also there is a manual NP241 in the 1989 version. 90' and 91' have electric with the right hand drive shaft square body truck need.
I have an electric one to shift my trans.
 

Pender1

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I have a LQ9 (6.0)/4L65E from an Escalade in my 82 k5.
No issues with oil pan, just use the motor mount adaptor brackets that move the engine back ~1".
I used a different transfer case cross member since I went from NP208 to NP241.
Able to reuse both original drive shafts.

I'm not sure what mounts I'm going to use yet, but I'm bolting it up to my SM465 that's already in the truck, so I kind of have to put it in the stock SBC location.
 

RoryH19

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I'm not sure what mounts I'm going to use yet, but I'm bolting it up to my SM465 that's already in the truck, so I kind of have to put it in the stock SBC location.
Right then the engine will need to be set back ~1" to mate to the trans and keep your other mounting points stock.
 

Pender1

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Right then the engine will need to be set back ~1" to mate to the trans and keep your other mounting points stock.

So at that spacing, do you know if the oil pan will clear?
 

RoryH19

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Yes, that is how my adaptor plates work. They set the engine back and the oil pan clears.
 

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I used L59 from a 2003 suburban. Had to hammer a dent into cross member.
 

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I used L59 from a 2003 suburban. Had to hammer a dent into cross member.

That looks minor. I'm just hoping not to have to fab a new one.
 

eskimomann209

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Depends on what mounts you use.

Alot of people just stack some washers and space the engine up to get the clearance they need.
I haven’t seen washers stacked up

However when I did mine it was pretty much as @rohuie mentioned
 
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Jrgunn5150

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I haven’t seen washers stacked up and it would make me seriously doubt someone’s mechanical abilities.

However when I did mine it was pretty much as @rohuie mentioned

Yeah I can see why 1/4" of washers would give someone cause for worry... :emotions34:

Anyhow, if the truck is lifted at all, and the transfer case is dropped, that helps as well.
 

eskimomann209

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Yeah I can see why 1/4" of washers would give someone cause for worry... :emotions34:

Anyhow, if the truck is lifted at all, and the transfer case is dropped, that helps as well.
Because you’ve taken something that should have a certain amount of surface area to spread the load/ vibrations and isolated it to the contact points made by the washers.
The vibration taking place will be centered onto the bolt holding the engine in place. This causes work hardening and eventually failure.
I mean it’s your truck but I’d rather weld an entire piece of flat bar 1/4” thick or 1/2” thick if you need it. But stacking washers really isn’t the way to go my goood sir.


* Edited former comment to reduce potential of offending fellow site members *
 

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