Carb and vacuum line problems

[DoubleDingo]

I appreciate the advice. I will be getting some vacuum hose and going to work on my truck this weekend. I do have a question though. What is the metal flexible duct that goes up from my left valve cover to my air cleaner? It doesn't fit on there very tightly, do I have to worry about that leaking?

That's to draw warm air in the carburetor when the engine is cold. It's loose by design, leave it on there.

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

That's to draw warm air in the carburetor when the engine is cold. It's loose by design, leave it on there.

Thanks. I'll be leaving that alone then.

 

[Goldie Driver]

This one any better?

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[Ewhitaker0020]

This one any better?

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Yep. It looks to me like I'm missing the linkage between the back vacuum thing and the secondary air flaps. I know my terminology stinks lol. That answered my question perfectly, thank you. Now I have to figure out how to find one. Do you know what that linkage does?

 

[Goldie Driver]

Yep. It looks to me like I'm missing the linkage between the back vacuum thing and the secondary air flaps. I know my terminology stinks lol. That answered my question perfectly, thank you. Now I have to figure out how to find one. Do you know what that linkage does?

I am no carb expert, but there are some on here !

I thought it was a part of the choke ...

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

I am no carb expert, but there are some on here !

I thought it was a part of the choke ...

It might be part of the choke. Hopefully I can find one. I could probably make my own but I wouldn't know if it was right or not.

 

[Johnathan S]

Yes this is how my truck looked when I got it, the original 305 and Rochester carb spaghetti lines everywhere. Over time I gradually figured out what lines I could take off and what ones I couldn’t for the engine to run ok. All my smog equipment like pump and charcoal canister I yanked out. Here in Texas if it’s over 25 years old you don’t have to get emissions checked or safety checked. I’d get an EGR block off plate for the manifold those tend to stick open and leak. The only vaccum lines you need are for the distributor advance, the A/C which should be connected to the manifold vaccum port behind the carb, PCV and cruise control, and slide power brakes which should be connected by a hardline to the back of the carb it oh and the TC Lockup if your transmission has one. Everything else you can block off with rubber vaccum caps. Honestly I’d just get a cheap Edelbrock 1406 those are easier to deal with vaccum wise. ALSO if you have stock exhaust manifolds which it looks like you do, the passenger side one has a vaccum operated valve that’s used for cold starts of make sure that doesn’t stick close

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

Yes this is how my truck looked when I got it, the original 305 and Rochester carb spaghetti lines everywhere. Over time I gradually figured out what lines I could take off and what ones I couldn’t for the engine to run ok. All my smog equipment like pump and charcoal canister I yanked out. Here in Texas if it’s over 25 years old you don’t have to get emissions checked or safety checked. I’d get an EGR block off plate for the manifold those tend to stick open and leak. The only vaccum lines you need are for the distributor advance, the A/C which should be connected to the manifold vaccum port behind the carb, PCV and cruise control, and slide power brakes which should be connected by a hardline to the back of the carb it oh and the TC Lockup if your transmission has one. Everything else you can block off with rubber vaccum caps. Honestly I’d just get a cheap Edelbrock 1406 those are easier to deal with vaccum wise. ALSO if you have stock exhaust manifolds which it looks like you do, the passenger side one has a vaccum operated valve that’s used for cold starts of make sure that doesn’t stick close

My EFE on the exhaust manifold isn't hooked up right now. Actually it has mud in the vacuum port. Does it being unhooked mean it's stuck closed or open? Somebody in another forum said it looks like my carb gaskets have been cooked because of that system running hot exhaust past my carb all the time.

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

I am no carb expert, but there are some on here !

I thought it was a part of the choke ...

Hey, turns out I can buy that part. The website I ordered my rebuild kit from sells the linkage. They call it a choke pull off link.

 

[gotyourgoat]

Yes this is how my truck looked when I got it, the original 305 and Rochester carb spaghetti lines everywhere. Over time I gradually figured out what lines I could take off and what ones I couldn’t for the engine to run ok. All my smog equipment like pump and charcoal canister I yanked out. Here in Texas if it’s over 25 years old you don’t have to get emissions checked or safety checked. I’d get an EGR block off plate for the manifold those tend to stick open and leak. The only vaccum lines you need are for the distributor advance, the A/C which should be connected to the manifold vaccum port behind the carb, PCV and cruise control, and slide power brakes which should be connected by a hardline to the back of the carb it oh and the TC Lockup if your transmission has one. Everything else you can block off with rubber vaccum caps. Honestly I’d just get a cheap Edelbrock 1406 those are easier to deal with vaccum wise. ALSO if you have stock exhaust manifolds which it looks like you do, the passenger side one has a vaccum operated valve that’s used for cold starts of make sure that doesn’t stick close

Just because you can yank all those things out doesn't mean you should. When this guy is back here in a few months saying he smells gas from under the hood and there's gas leaking out of the filler neck he's gonna wish there was less yanking to undo. Keep the charcoal can and the pcv, they work together.

Your year and engine are the same as mine but I'm not sure our carbs are the same, I don't have that larger vacuum thingie, whatever it's called, on the passenger side.
Mine is 17083224 I was forced to buy a rebuilt one because the previous owner relieved me of so damn many parts off the original I had a rebuilder literally laugh at me and tell me it's nothing but a core at best. More than happy to snap a pic of how this carb should look if you want.

 

[Ewhitaker0020]

Just because you can yank all those things out doesn't mean you should. When this guy is back here in a few months saying he smells gas from under the hood and there's gas leaking out of the filler neck he's gonna wish there was less yanking to undo. Keep the charcoal can and the pcv, they work together.

Your year and engine are the same as mine but I'm not sure our carbs are the same, I don't have that larger vacuum thingie, whatever it's called, on the passenger side.
Mine is 17083224 I was forced to buy a rebuilt one because the previous owner relieved me of so damn many parts off the original I had a rebuilder literally laugh at me and tell me it's nothing but a core at best. More than happy to snap a pic of how this carb should look if you want.

I would appreciate you snapping some pictures for me. I will be keeping the canister and the pcv valve, in fact I just ordered a new one in case mine is plugged up since it was only a couple of dollars. More than anything I want to eliminate the air system. It's huge and hides so much of my engine. Plus, the air pump isn't even hooked up anymore.

My carb number is 17080206

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[Johnathan S]

My EFE on the exhaust manifold isn't hooked up right now. Actually it has mud in the vacuum port. Does it being unhooked mean it's stuck closed or open? Somebody in another forum said it looks like my carb gaskets have been cooked because of that system running hot exhaust past my carb all the time.

Yep that’s form the EGR valve on the intake, it really does nothing and it probably doesn’t work, as far as the valve on the manifold it should be open without vaccum, if you want to you can undo the linkage from the valve and try and free it up with some WD-40

 

[Johnathan S]

Just because you can yank all those things out doesn't mean you should. When this guy is back here in a few months saying he smells gas from under the hood and there's gas leaking out of the filler neck he's gonna wish there was less yanking to undo. Keep the charcoal can and the pcv, they work together.

Your year and engine are the same as mine but I'm not sure our carbs are the same, I don't have that larger vacuum thingie, whatever it's called, on the passenger side.
Mine is 17083224 I was forced to buy a rebuilt one because the previous owner relieved me of so damn many parts off the original I had a rebuilder literally laugh at me and tell me it's nothing but a core at best. More than happy to snap a pic of how this carb should look if you want.

No I understand if you want to keep it all you can but the motor doesn’t need any of it to run right. And if you keep it in and experience problems it’s just harder to trace. By all means keep it all I just had a lot of people tell me to take it all out and it worked for me

 

[spanky55amg]

Just an FYI. I run a Q-jet and have ZERO emissions.

The vacuum advance, HVAC, choke, PCV, and TCC switch are all that I have hooked up to the carb.

 

[gotyourgoat]

No I understand if you want to keep it all you can but the motor doesn’t need any of it to run right. And if you keep it in and experience problems it’s just harder to trace. By all means keep it all I just had a lot of people tell me to take it all out and it worked for me

I'm not saying a gen 1 small block won't run without a bunch of bits and bobs attached. They do. They'll run on liquid soap for Christ sake. Now longevity is probably a coin toss with the soap but there's a thousand ways to skin a cat.

The canister actually has a relatively simple purpose rooted in science in the fact that volatile fluids like gasoline expand and contract quite a bit from just a small difference in things like temp and air pressure. This is where the canister comes in. One line to the canister is from the gas tank so if you remove the charcoal can you still have to find a way to cap that line and you will need to source a gas cap that vents to the atmosphe at minimum. Just seems easier and possibly less mess to have a canister. Think of it like less of a smog item and more of a hey I don't have to deal with cleaning up leaking or spilled gas with this relatively unseen cylinder and it functions with my two outlet pcv so all is fine can.

Just an FYI. I run a Q-jet and have ZERO emissions.

The vacuum advance, HVAC, choke, PCV, and TCC switch are all that I have hooked up to the carb.

The same q-jet? Hell, you have a fancy optioned truck.