Finally got a running 65 C10

[bucket]

When I was young, I put grease on the pump rod to hold it in place, because that's how dad told me to do it. I later discovered the longer bolt trick.

I also hate those rubber gaskets for the perimeter bolt valve covers.

 

[GXPWeasel]

Yep, I could never get the rubber valve cover gaskets to work either. I went the same way you did, and did a little rtv on the valve cover side, installed cork, let them set up, then installed them on the heads. No oil leaks since.

 

[1low4x4]

How much shorter of a belt would you buy? 1-2”? The new alternator changed the orientation and maxed out my current belt

 

[DoubleDingo]

How much shorter of a belt would you buy? 1-2”? The new alternator changed the orientation and maxed out my current belt

At least an inch, maybe 1.5

 

[Ricko1966]

Best bet would be put the adjuster where you want it,minus 1/2 inch for tensioning,cut an old belt in 1/2 and wrap it around the pulleys, keep shortening it until the ends touch,if you know the existing belts length you just measure how much the ends over lap. If you had a piece of rope the same diameter as the bottom of the belts VEE you could measure with a rope. Measure your ropes length in inches,most belts number system has the belts inches in the part number . Example a gates 7350 is 35 inches long a 7355 is 35.5 inches long.

 

[84GMCSierra]

I love the 64-66 Chevy trucks. I used to have a 65 Chevy Suburban myself. I wish I had never sold it now. I was 3rd owner after my dad. Had it from 93-2018. These are pics of 3 actors from American Graffiti signing my glove box door in 2007

 

[1low4x4]

Picked up a new gauge set today, with the copper line. It has the plastic on it now, which I don’t like, and none of the lights work, nor does the voltmeter so gonna fix that.

Getting a spray can mixed up tomorrow to match the green, so I can try to match the drivers fender. Paint it brown first, then green then sand and make it look old to match the truck.

 

[1low4x4]

Been sanding some of the primer off here and there

 

[1low4x4]

Got the gauges in…..that copper line was kind of a pain in the ass. Volts works now, gonna crank the truck tomorrow to check for oil leaks/coolant reading

Need to replace bulbs in the cluster

Moved my choke to the right of the cluster, below the heater knob. It likes that location, it moves even more freely now, almost a direct shot to the carb thru the firewall

Figure out the paint code was on the cab inside, on the little metal tag. 510 turquoise metallic, going to have a can or two mixed tomorrow

 

[DoubleDingo]

Turquoise Metallic, I think there is a guy on Stovebolt that just restored a stepside with that color.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Turquoise Metallic, I think there is a guy on Stovebolt that just restored a stepside with that color.

Nope, it was a baby blue, and I couldn't find a color code or name in his thread

 

[1low4x4]

Did you take out the cluster? Or just fight with the copper line with the cluster still in? All the old trucks I've had with the copper oil pressure line, had enough slack coiled under the hood and the dash that you can pull the cluster out to unscrew/screw-in the copper line to the oil pressure gauge.

Turquoise Metallic, I think there is a guy on Stovebolt that just restored a stepside with that color.

Copper line went straight into the back of the three gauge pod under the dash, I left the excess roll under the dash instead of in the engine bay like it was before.

Yo, why is there Ford parts on my Chevy truck lol

 

[1low4x4]

Trying to match the driver side fender to the rest of the truck, both front fenders were replaced, I would do the passenger side, but I ruined it the other day getting it on the trailer. I’ll have to find another passenger side fender. Sanded it down, half ass, sprayed it with brown primer, then a little bit of red oxide sprinkled on, then wet coffee grounds, then a little bit of the turquoise metallic and just waiting for it to dry so I can brush off and maybe do some light feathering with 1000 grit. I hope it looks better.

 

[Ricko1966]

Copper line went straight into the back of the three gauge pod under the dash, I left the excess roll under the dash instead of in the engine bay like it was before.

Yo, why is there Ford parts on my Chevy truck lol

The excess under the hood,coiled like a spring allows the engine to vibrate,and move with bumps and engine torque,without flexing the copper repeatedly which will cause the copper to harden and crack like bending a coat hanger back and forth.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Copper line went straight into the back of the three gauge pod under the dash, I left the excess roll under the dash instead of in the engine bay like it was before.

Yo, why is there Ford parts on my Chevy truck lol

I edited my previous post accordingly.

The coil should be under the hood because of the engine torquing side to side. You want the movement to be taken up in the coil in the engine bay before it goes through the firewall. Nothing is moving under the dash.