First thread 1982 C10/C20 differences

[jthurman73]

Ok guys diving right in and trying to see where to start. What are the front crossmember/suspension differences between the C10 and C20. Are crossmembers the same? A-arms? Ball joints? Spindles? Swapping over from 3/4 to 1/2 which I know some won’t like but it’s where I am at. Anyway any help would be appreciated. This is what we are starting with

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[Ricko1966]

Drop the entire front crossmember with everything attached out of a c10. Bolt it into your frame. In the back grab the drive shaft,springs,hardware and rearend from a same wheel base c10.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

I would trade it for a C10.....

 

[jthurman73]

Drop the entire front crossmember with everything attached out of a c10. Bolt it into your frame. In the back grab the drive shaft,springs,hardware and rearend from a same wheel base c10.

Thank you that is what I was wanting to know.

 

[jthurman73]

I would trade it for a C10.....

Send me pics of what you got. I may trade you. But this is great shape for my area. I got it now and it is what it is. But by all means anyone insisting on swapping. Send to me.

 

[Fat 454]

I think the post meant - you would be better off finding a C10 to start with, rather than all the work to swap out the suspension. Depends on what is available, cost and what you want at the end.
Swap is straightforward, however you need to find parts, buy new stuff, tools, have somewhere to work, time etc. etc. ..
Loads of info available on this site - just try the search ..
And that is what the hobby is all about

 

[Grit dog]

Apples to apples C20s are less valuable than c10s. In fact, the least valuable aside from 2wd Suburbans. And they’re not rare so modifying one isn’t like chopping up a Hemi Cuda lol.
And a post like this appearing to have your mind made up is fine. We all do what we want to do. But sometimes we don’t think through it before diving in. Especially since you appear to be going into this kinda green.
If I’m reading between the lines, you may be wanting to lower it. (Otherwise the reason for the swap makes even less sense) That’s cool.
But you could lower the C20 for slightly more cost than lowering a 3/4ton which is way less $ and effort than what you’re planning. Just sayin.
And you can get 8 lug wheels to mimic pretty much any style you want while retaining a significant upgrade in brakes/braking power.

However if you get an equal condition straight across swap for a C10, take it. You’ll actually be $ ahead in value vs being $ behind after doing a swap and having an unknown Franken truck.

 

[Grit dog]

I think the post meant - you would be better off finding a C10 to start with, rather than all the work to swap out the suspension. Depends on what is available, cost and what you want at the end.
Swap is straightforward, however you need to find parts, buy new stuff, tools, have somewhere to work, time etc. etc. ..
Loads of info available on this site - just try the search ..
And that is what the hobby is all about

Exactly. Many projects end up as …just that, unfinished projects, for a host of reasons. But to your point if you’re reasonably sure you have all of the above and the skill level to do it, then by all means have at ‘er!
Btw what part of Australia you from? Just took our son to Townsville for grad school. Spent a little time there. Had a great time and he is as well!! If the import export thing wasn’t so prohibitive I’d trade you squarebodys for some of your old utes and troopys all day long and twice on Sunday! We basically were gawking at your alls trucks the whole time and drooling over them!

 

[JBswth]

Ok guys diving right in and trying to see where to start. What are the front crossmember/suspension differences between the C10 and C20. Are crossmembers the same? A-arms? Ball joints? Spindles? Swapping over from 3/4 to 1/2 which I know some won’t like but it’s where I am at. Anyway any help would be appreciated. This is what we are starting with

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Are the steering knuckles interchangeable? If yes, then all you have to do is replace the them, the rotors, and calipers with C10 parts, and replace the rear end and rear springs.

J. B.

 

[idahovette]

Upper C20 control arm attaching bolts are quite a bit bigger. C10 control arms will NOT bolt up. Upper C20 ball joints are heavier, too?? Best bet would probably be a complete C10 cradle?

 

[Fat 454]

Exactly. Many projects end up as …just that, unfinished projects, for a host of reasons. But to your point if you’re reasonably sure you have all of the above and the skill level to do it, then by all means have at ‘er!
Btw what part of Australia you from? Just took our son to Townsville for grad school. Spent a little time there. Had a great time and he is as well!! If the import export thing wasn’t so prohibitive I’d trade you squarebodys for some of your old utes and troopys all day long and twice on Sunday! We basically were gawking at your alls trucks the whole time and drooling over them!

We're in Victoria, in the very SSE of the continent. Used to live in Queensland, and travel up there for work still ( have a job I'm managing in Townsville at the moment ).
Maybe will start a "Australian stuff seen on the road" as another thread. Not a lot of anything here ( its all crazy expensive, especially since we lost our automotive industry a few years back. Mind you the Aussie $ is only worth about 5c US .. ), but at the same time there is bit of everything and some that don't seem to be anywhere else !...

Apologies to the OP but ..

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[Fat 454]

BTW "Hungry Jacks" is Burger King in the real world ..

 

[CheemsK1500]

I’d argue that C20s actually makes a lot of sense for a performance build since they have beefier parts and bigger rear ends from the get-go. Sure the “C10” name has been romanticized more to the point that people often erroneously call K10s “4x4 C10s” but the C20 is far from just simply a parts donor in its stock form. The only time the heavier trucks can become a problem is for mods involving aftermarket parts that were strictly designed for 1/2 ton trucks.

 

[HotRodPC]

Ok guys diving right in and trying to see where to start. What are the front crossmember/suspension differences between the C10 and C20. Are crossmembers the same? A-arms? Ball joints? Spindles? Swapping over from 3/4 to 1/2 which I know some won’t like but it’s where I am at. Anyway any help would be appreciated. This is what we are starting with

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But why? I guess it's personal preference. I lik the C20's so much better. The stance, everything is bigger and lasts longer, tolerates more abuse and feels more like driving a truck not a staton wagon. If I had a C10 to trade you, I'd do it in a heatbeat. I have a C20 and a K10 that I'm converting to K20.

 

[jthurman73]

I’d argue that C20s actually makes a lot of sense for a performance build since they have beefier parts and bigger rear ends from the get-go. Sure the “C10” name has been romanticized more to the point that people often erroneously call K10s “4x4 C10s” but the C20 is far from just simply a parts donor in its stock form. The only time the heavier trucks can become a problem is for mods involving aftermarket parts that were strictly designed for 1/2 ton trucks.

This is where we are at. A lot of the things we want to do is better suited for a c10. As of yesterday she is now a swb framed truck, with takeout C10 springs and rear end. Cleaning the swb donors brake lines to handle that. Got a swb bed from the donor that will go on. Donor was picked up for free after I had done a little work with tractor for him and told him I would take that for payment. Donor was a running driving truck that tree fell on. Cab and hood plus it had some rust