LS swap DBW pedal geometry

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K5Rob

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Hey guys getting real close to start up. 04 LM7 in an 87 K5. Its a DBW motor. The pedal assembly mounts to the firewall no problem but the arm is a lot longer than the existing setup and also kicked over towards the center hump. I ended up cutting the arm somewhere in the middle and I have some bar stock to try to get it over and down where it needs to be but in mocking it up it still sits the pedal up higher than i think it should be, other wise it hits the floor before WOT. Having trouble with this one. I was getting close but ran out of time and had to pick up for the night.

I know they make a mounting bracket for the firewall but to my knowledge that does nothing for the geometry of the pedal arm. Hoping there is a solution or two out there that you guys have come across for this issue. Any insight is appreciated
 

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Sounds like something that you will just have to fiddle around with. Maybe a spacer between he peddle and floor.
 

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What is the pedal out of? I would assume that different GM vehicles from the same time period used different pedals that may function the same electronicaly.
 

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Anyone know about the 98 6.5 turbo diesel dbw pedal? Supposed to be a direct fit, 1 wire swap on the harness. I have been reading but nothing seems to be confirmed, especially on the wiring part
 
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For my DBW pedal I took the factory squarebody pedal and cut the round bar off where it goes horizontal and then cut the DBW pedal arm and drilled a hole through it and set my pedal angle before welding it up. Looks factory and gives you full freedom to set the pedal placement
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K5Rob

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For my DBW pedal I took the factory squarebody pedal and cut the round bar off where it goes horizontal and then cut the DBW pedal arm and drilled a hole through it and set my pedal angle before welding it up. Looks factory and gives you full freedom to set the pedal placement
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That looks really nice. How does the pedal feel when driving? Also i was worried about burning the sensor when welding but apparently you had no issue on that end?
 
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That looks really nice. How does the pedal feel when driving? Also i was worried about burning the sensor when welding but apparently you had no issue on that end?
Pedal feels pretty good! I will say that the spring in the DBW pedal is not very stiff so in my lifted burb on bumpy roads you just have to be mindful not to have your whole foot on the pedal or else you will be blipping the throttle on every bump haha. After two drives I have it figured out now!

No issues with welding, I tacked it in the car and then spaced out my heavy spot welds to ensure no crazy amount of heat transferred up to the electronics. Its not like these welds need to hold the whole truck together.
 
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That looks really nice. How does the pedal feel when driving? Also i was worried about burning the sensor when welding but apparently you had no issue on that end?
I forgot to add that I was in the same spot as you and i couldn't bring myself to spend the money on a PSI pedal or try to deal with the 6.5 pedal mod. I already had the factory pedal and DBW pedal laying around so I figured try this and worst case I can buy the PSI pedal if I hate it.
 

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I forgot to add that I was in the same spot as you and i couldn't bring myself to spend the money on a PSI pedal or try to deal with the 6.5 pedal mod. I already had the factory pedal and DBW pedal laying around so I figured try this and worst case I can buy the PSI pedal if I hate it.
I got the 98 6.5 pedal on rock auto for $45. Apparently you swap 1 wire and cut a notch into the plug. I also read of someone who burned up their tac module and also read someone said the 6.5 diesels throttle was unreliable. Idk if there is any truth to this. Would like confirmation on wiring too if anyone knows
 

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But yes i will take my two stock pedals and try that in the mean time
 

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One of the ways they swap DBW into Jaguar XJ6's is they mount the DBW pedal assembly in the engine compartment and run a cable to it from the stock pedal. Basically the stock throttle cable gets modified and is used to pull the DBW assembly, once the geometry is figured out to get full motion from closed to WOT they trim the DBW assembly down and weld an arm to it with holes to add throttle return springs.
 
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But yes i will take my two stock pedals and try that in the mean time
I will add one last bit of advice. Once you cut down the DBW arm mount it in the car and then figure out the height you want the pedal to mark your placement for the thru hole. Drill your thru hole and then figure out a way to push the dbw pedal to full throttle and make sure that your factory pedal is where you want it at full throttle, tack in place and release to see where idle position is.
 

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stand by.....Holler at Precision Fabrication Plus and tell them what you have. The one I got from them was for a duramax setup, but it bolted right up. I didn't want to waste money so I mailed my pedal to them and they test fitted it. You could probably trace your pedal with measurements and email it to them to save shipping urs out.

It's a natural fit like the old pedal.

Precision Fabrication Plus

GMSB pedal mount suggestion post ~169
 
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I got the 98 6.5 pedal on rock auto for $45. Apparently you swap 1 wire and cut a notch into the plug. I also read of someone who burned up their tac module and also read someone said the 6.5 diesels throttle was unreliable. Idk if there is any truth to this. Would like confirmation on wiring too if anyone knows
Quoting myself above, others have said with the 03-07 tac modules some people are reporting a 100% throttle blade opening at only 50% throttle, rendering the vehicle unsafe, has anyone heard of this?
 

Camar068

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Quoting myself above, others have said with the 03-07 tac modules some people are reporting a 100% throttle blade opening at only 50% throttle, rendering the vehicle unsafe, has anyone heard of this?
never heard that one. Could it be the pedal needs calibrated?
 

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