Source for rear AC fittings?

[82SquareBurb]

Yeah, it's quite overwhelming at first, with so many fittings, the different sizes, the rear evaporator and such. Hopefully helpful for anyone brave enough to tackle the job! Heck, just a couple weeks ago I didn't know a TXV from an orifice tube, now I feel like I have a handle on it. The real test is when I vacuum it down, soon I should be ready to start evacuating and testing all my work.

 

[82SquareBurb]

All fittings and new hoses installed. It's been holding 26" of vacuum for over 3 hours, so I may be getting close to charge time. I don't have a nitrogen tank to pressure test, but it does hold vacuum. Added a total of 11 ounces of PAG 100 oil to the system with 5.1 oz in the new compressor., the rest distributed to both evaporators, (1.5 oz each) condenser (1 oz) and accumulator (2 oz).

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Needle hasn't moved since first pull down.

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I have 6 cans of r134a ready to go in. My only concern at this point is if the Sanden SD710B/7176 will have enough capacity to chill both evaporators when idling. Time will tell, hoping the new condenser will balance it all out.

Rear lines with new barrier hose installed.

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Close up

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[bruisedbanana79]

Thank you for posting all of this! Small world as I am just starting my AC project on my ls swapped suburban. Needless to say all of your posts are not going to waste!!

It looked like you left the interior rear ac lines alone and didn’t put new hoses on them. Is that correct?

 

[gmbellew]

there is a thread around here somewhere that I followed that spec'ed out a sanden that used the factory hoses. thats what I did in my burb and it works A-OK.

 

[82SquareBurb]

It looked like you left the interior rear ac lines alone and didn’t put new hoses on them. Is that correct?

Yes, they looked fine, but I did get some reduced barrier ferrules and hose just in case I found a leak back there, but so far they seem to be holding fine. I needed to do new hoses/routing anyway, so I just ended up replacing all hoses/fittings under the hood, along with redoing the hard lines that run under the truck. I needed to do some repairs to the suction line in my case, so I went ahead and made those solid with new hoses.

Looking forward to follow your swap, sounds like a fun project! I thought this would present more headaches and challenges, but so far it has been pretty smooth, hopefully I can get back to fuel and wiring work once I get the AC working.

 

[82SquareBurb]

there is a thread around here somewhere that I followed that spec'ed out a sanden that used the factory hoses. thats what I did in my burb and it works A-OK.

Do you recall if is is a Sanden 508 or one of the smaller "peanut style" like the one I am running? This may be experimental cooling down a burb, I think most run the 508 or the A6 style larger replacement ones. So little info on AC systems and design in my experience, but we will soon see how well it works and I will report back.

 

[gmbellew]

Do you recall if is is a Sanden 508 or one of the smaller "peanut style" like the one I am running? This may be experimental cooling down a burb, I think most run the 508 or the A6 style larger replacement ones. So little info on AC systems and design in my experience, but we will soon see how well it works and I will report back.

I am running this one in my burb with rear air. no complaints.

New Genuine Sanden 4864 AC Compressor - Auto Air Online

New original Sanden 4864 ac compressor includes 12-volt clutch, 119MM 8/ groove serpentine belt pulley, and 1 wire male Packard connector w/ diode.

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[82SquareBurb]

So I have pulled down the system a few times now, with both the low and high side and each time it holds vacuum for up to over night. I ran the vacuum pump for at least an hour (shop temp was above 100) to make sure everything got boiled out.

I know you guys know way more about AC than I do, do you see any reason why I shouldn't just be able to feed it a few cans of R134a and see if I can get the compressor to run, and then fill it up to capacity? I am not able to pressure test it aside from compressed dry air - and they don't recommend introducing any atmospheric air, so I can only rely on the vacuum test.
Thanks

 

[legopnuematic]

Not an A/C expert/authority at all, but I overhauled the system in my Ram and it works wonderfully (38-40° from the vents even at 100° ambient).

So I replaced every component with new, when I finally got around to hooking up the suction-discharge lines to the compressor, I set it up on the vacuum pump and pulled it down. Shut it off and about 5 minutes later it lost all vacuum. Try again and see if I can’t hear any sucking noise. Nope. Ok so I put 100lbs of shop air (supplied through a filtered setup) in, spray around, nothing I could find, let it sit for half and hour and hadn’t lost any pressure. So I pull a vacuum on it again and it held for an hour with no loss. Go run the pump for another 30 minutes or so and charged the system by weight and it works excellent.

My guess is a seal maybe was upset and the positive pressure was enough to seal it? I did that back in April and it gets used basically daily and still frosty cold.

I say that to say, I don’t think a little compressed air is an issue if nitrogen isn’t available as long as it’s quality compressed air, not visibly blowing water out or oil with the air.

Maybe not most ideal, but there are a lot of systems that have been opened and exposed to atmosphere for years or decades that are repaired, vacuumed, and charged and work fine.

Just my 2¢. Now if you didn’t/were not going to vacuum the system down before charging, I’d say don’t do it.

 

[edgephoto]

If it holds a vacuum, charge it up and enjoy the nice cold, dry air.