rear disc brakes prop valve

[gmc2313]

i recently installed a willwood rear disc brake kit. i also installed willwood master,vac booster and prop valve for disc/disc. do i need to remove the factory prop valve on the frame if im using the new one mounted to the master. truck is 75 K10 shorty stepside on 35's

 

[bucket]

Yes, it should get removed.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Yep it is useless. Maybe hold onto it for some one though.

 

[gmc2313]

thank you i will remove it and put unions or run all new brake lines. appreciate the info!

 

[bucket]

thank you i will remove it and put unions or run all new brake lines. appreciate the info!

Iirc, that's how my '90 Suburban was setup. It had the rear abs and no prop valve under the radiator area. The rear lines just had a union and the front lines had a tee.

 

[Fastduramax]

Old thread I see but I'm doing the same thing currently, can you just "gut" the stock valve so you don't have to modify any brake lines ? Use it as a junction block of sorts ?

 

[Ricko1966]

Old thread I see but I'm doing the same thing currently, can you just "gut" the stock valve so you don't have to modify any brake lines ? Use it as a junction block of sorts ?

More involved than it would be worth. There are 3 valves and a shuttle in there,all would need to be dealt with. It would be easier to start with an aluminum or brass block and make your own union.

 

[Fastduramax]

Thanks Ricko kinda figured that but worth the ask, I'm sure once I get it apart it will be simple enough to neatly figure out...

 

[Ricko1966]

Thanks Ricko kinda figured that but worth the ask, I'm sure once I get it apart it will be simple enough to neatly figure out...

Well still trying to wrap my head around it.The combination valve has 3 valves,the stand off valve the shuttle valve and the proportioning valve in it. I suppose,you could lock the shuttle valve. Easy way would be the bleeder tool and leave it in place,I do know a neater but more difficult method,you could gut the proportioning valve part to keep your fluid outlet,remove the stand off valve maybe you could cut the end off and screw it back in,or thread it npt and use an Allen pipe plug. To lock the shuttle valve without leaving a bleeder tool you could use a short 1/2 by 20 bolt drill a hole in the end to put a dowel or roll pin and screw that in,or remove the shuttle valve and tap the bore at each end for plugs. Good luck,keep us posted.

 

[Ricko1966]

I just figured 5 of these and a chunk of brass or aluminum cut to size drilled for fluid passage and tapped npt. Would be a sure thing,fast and easy.

 

[Fastduramax]

Holy crisp Ricko you put some serious thought into this ! When I get that far I'll give everything a look over, I'm sure others have been in this dilemma as it not only applies to Squares but to cars of the era as well, just to nice out to be reading threads and posting replies I guess, like here on Uranus we only get about 2 months of summer !

 

[Ricko1966]

Holy crisp Ricko you put some serious thought into this ! When I get that far I'll give everything a look over, I'm sure others have been in this dilemma as it not only applies to Squares but to cars of the era as well, just to nice out to be reading threads and posting replies I guess, like here on Uranus we only get about 2 months of summer !

Actually not much thought at all. Been around so much of this for soo many years,seen and done soo many things that,it all just pops into my head.

 

[Keith Seymore]

Subscribed.

K

 

[xm20k]

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[Fastduramax]

Ahhhh there we go ! Yeah pretty amazing Ricko with all the Squares I've owned, built, fixed and worked on in my lifetime I've never replaced a Prop valve !