Mini spool vs lunchbox locker

[crazy4offroad]

Yeah the No-Slip is an LSD. And I believe Eaton had the goverment contract for traction control devices.

 

[guitarfreak235]

If all of that is true, then you do need an LSD unit up front. They aren't a thousand. Go with that Auburn unit. It's a good LSD unit. Detroit Locker in the rear, and Auburn LSD up front should be a good combo. Eaton makes a decent LSD unit too. Not the Gov Bomb of course. What LSD unit is used in the 1028 CUCV's? I know it's a LSD unit in the Dana 60's on those models.

I still think the lunchbox locker is the better choice for this, sounding close to OEM motor and just over stock size tire. Either the Lock Right noisy one of the one skysurfer is using. The quieter one. Powertraxx NO Slip.

well i was meaning the difference with racing in the mud and the trail. but also i dont have manual hubs so it wont make a difference there. but the lunchbox costs like 300 and the spool for about 100. that is considerably cheaper and the only time the locker wouldnt be engaged would be while coasting.... but anyway i wont be doing a ton of tight trail stuff anyway.... but how much worse would turning get with locked vs open?

 

[crazy4offroad]

It will be terrible on dirt, and on dry pavement you may even break stuff like axle joints, stub shafts, steering linkage, etc. I still say not to do it, even moreso now that you say you dont have lockout hubs.

 

[guitarfreak235]

It will be terrible on dirt, and on dry pavement you may even break stuff like axle joints, stub shafts, steering linkage, etc. I still say not to do it, even moreso now that you say you dont have lockout hubs.

heres the thing though, i will NEVER be in 4wd on pavement... but theres a ton of mud around here... just want cheap grip and id have to shell out atleast 200 more bucks... i do understand what you are saying but as ive said before wouldnt the lunchbox behave the same when im on the gas anyway?? cuz when im offroading im not coasting around a ton

 

[HotRodPC]

well i was meaning the difference with racing in the mud and the trail. but also i dont have manual hubs so it wont make a difference there. but the lunchbox costs like 300 and the spool for about 100. that is considerably cheaper and the only time the locker wouldnt be engaged would be while coasting.... but anyway i wont be doing a ton of tight trail stuff anyway.... but how much worse would turning get with locked vs open?

It can be a lot worse. You will sure notice it. You will want to make sharp turns and they will end up wide. Granted you could always shift into 2hi and make your turn since you're not rock crawling. You can also goose the throttle a bit to break the front tires loose on dirt or sand, but still no gaurentee it's going where you want.

You bring up a good point, it's only $100. Go for it. You can always do as you planned with it. Manual Locking hubs are usually the better most common choice anyway. So put the spool in. If you feel steering in uncontrolable in those rare situations that you'll need it from your explanation, then convert to manual hubs, and only lock 1 front hub in when driving the tight trails. So you should have a 2 wheels pushing in the rear, and 1 pulling in the front. That is still better than an open diff, because an open diff sends power to the wheel with least traction. In this case, 1 wheel will have dedicated power full time. In the event it's the least traction wheel, lock in the other hub, get thru it and unlock when you need to for a turn if you need to.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Sounds like you're talked into it. One thing I'd like to add is spend the money for a steering box brace kit, there is going to be a lot more force put on it now and these trucks are notorious for the frame cracking and or steering box bolts pulling through the frame.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Granted you could always shift into 2hi and make your turn since you're not rock crawling.

With no lockout hubs it is still going to steer weird even in 2wd.

 

[HotRodPC]

With no lockout hubs it is still going to steer weird even in 2wd.

Oh hell yeah it is. I didn't even think of that. So even on pavement, you'll be fugged in or out of 2wd cuz the front 2 wheels are locked at all times. Not evening realizing that, unless this is just a farm truck that never leaves the property, I wouldn't even consider it. 10 bolt axle with spool, I say is a recipe for broken axles in very short order. Something will have to give. Tires, axles, U Joints, spool or gears. You'll sure find the weak link.

 

[guitarfreak235]

Oh hell yeah it is. I didn't even think of that. So even on pavement, you'll be fugged in or out of 2wd cuz the front 2 wheels are locked at all times. Not evening realizing that, unless this is just a farm truck that never leaves the property, I wouldn't even consider it. 10 bolt axle with spool, I say is a recipe for broken axles in very short order. Something will have to give. Tires, axles, U Joints, spool or gears. You'll sure find the weak link.

with the auto locking hubs they are disconected at the hub just like a regular manual hub. if you dont believe me put a squarebody with the autolocking hubs on a lift and spin one wheel and nothing happens at all to the other wheel or the driveline. they are free spinning and the front driveline does not move at all. once the front driveline starts moving they lock. i figured that out when i was doing my lift so actually it will not affect on road 2wd performance

 

[crazy4offroad]

Say no more, I didnt realize it was auto hubs. As a matter of fact I went back through this thread and read all your posts and this is the first mention of auto hubs. I thought you had solid hubs like a fulltime 4wd or drive flanges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but arent auto hubs more likely to fail with the use of a minispool?

 

[HotRodPC]

Say no more, I didnt realize it was auto hubs. As a matter of fact I went back through this thread and read all your posts and this is the first mention of auto hubs. I thought you had solid hubs like a fulltime 4wd or drive flanges. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but aren't auto hubs more likely to fail with the use of a minispool?

Chances are the Auto hubs will be the weakest link and will be the first thing to strip out on a turn with any kind mild traction. After those are converted to Manuals then who know what the weakest link will be. U joints or axle shafts I'd imagine.

Yes, I was thinking locked hubs too after C4 mentioned it. If you're set on mini spool, I'd still do manual hubs and only lock 1 in on those situations where you have a chance of decent traction to both wheels.

 

[guitarfreak235]

Chances are the Auto hubs will be the weakest link and will be the first thing to strip out on a turn with any kind mild traction. After those are converted to Manuals then who know what the weakest link will be. U joints or axle shafts I'd imagine.

Yes, I was thinking locked hubs too after C4 mentioned it. If you're set on mini spool, I'd still do manual hubs and only lock 1 in on those situations where you have a chance of decent traction to both wheels.

well how hard would it be to change to manual hubs, and how much would it cost? im wanting to do the most cost effective way. but the lunchbox is sounding better now... with the lunchbox sholuld i still do the steering box brace?

 

[HotRodPC]

well how hard would it be to change to manual hubs, and how much would it cost? im wanting to do the most cost effective way. but the lunchbox is sounding better now... with the lunchbox sholuld i still do the steering box brace?

Changing the hubs isn't hard at all. I think cost is about $100 for good ones. I snagged a set of Warns at Pull a Part once for $25. Ended up selling them for $50 since I got another set on a front axle I bought for $100. The steer box brace is something you should want to do anyway regardless of what axle or hub you're running. Just put it on the to do list when extra cash comes available. It's better to add it BEFORE the problem happens, but if the problem happens then this brace will fix it.

 

[guitarfreak235]

ok so its 200 for the manual hubs with the spool, or 300 for the lunchbox.... decision time haha but i have some time to think it over

 

[HotRodPC]

Honestly, and NOT just trying to persuade one way or another, but I think most here will also agree, The part time hubs are much more dependable and should want to do them anyway. Just like the steering bracket. You should want to do that anyway too. If you want to be the guinea pig, and you want to do the spool, do it first and see how long those Auto hubs last. Might just surprise us all. And if they break, so what, you intended to do manual anyway. And if you do break, it's likely going to be just one, and you still have the rear end for a 3 wheel drive, so it's not like it'll leave you stranded. It just simply won't engage is all.