Engine wiring/vacuum connections!

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HotRodPC

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John sorry, but I'm a little unclear on the location you suggested. Do these are need to connect at the same location. I wouldn't think so, but I may be wrong, also what do you mean between the rubber mounts.

He doesn't mean to hook between the rubber mounts, He's saying like, BETWEEN you and I, I'd hook up as many grounds as possible. Or as, BETWEEN This Heat, and this Humidity outside, it's miserable.

Your motor is mounted to the frame with rubber mounts that DO NOT conduct a ground, so you need to take chassis grounds to the motor, since grounds don't come naturally. Even the trans is mounted on a rubber mount.
 
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89Suburban

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John sorry, but I'm a little unclear on the location you suggested. Do these are need to connect at the same location. I wouldn't think so, but I may be wrong, also what do you mean between the rubber mounts.

Run negative cable from battery to engine block, usually to the front of the pass side head to a threaded boss. And another one from that same bolt to the frame rail on the pass side. And a light cable from the firewall to the rear of the pass side head. Wouldn't hurt to run a light one from your pickup bed to the frame either.
 

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Always good to have a ground on a Bell Housing bolt too. For the life of me, I am trying to remember what the deal was, but there is something about not having enough grounds to motor and trans, and ground was arcing to the front pump or the front seal of transmissions and causing lock up failures in converters, or burning front pump seals or some crap like that. At any rate, it was causing a biggo trans failure of some sort, and the issue turned out to be lack of grounds. Point is, just the Negative Battery Terminal to the Alternator bracket isn't enough. I'd probably go with another from the firewall to the motor since the cab is also bolted to the frame on rubber bushings, and another from the block to the frame. This way you have all your basis covered. Block to sheetmetal, Block to Iron frame, and Block to Battery, you should be good to go.


Then, things like your instrument cluster are plastic, so you'd need to take ground to sheetmetal etc. This is what we mean, you can't have enough grounds. If it doesn't ground naturally, then add a ground to it in the proper place. Taillights for example. Also plastic, each must be grounded to the sheetmetal or they don't work. An idea of a natural ground, would be the starter. It bolts direct to the block so it's naturally grounded, (provided you have the block grounded to all basis).
 
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89Suburban

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Always good to have a ground on a Bell Housing bolt too. For the life of me, I am trying to remember what the deal was, but there is something about not having enough grounds to motor and trans, and ground was arcing to the front pump or the front seal of transmissions and causing lock up failures in converters, or burning front pump seals or some crap like that. At any rate, it was causing a biggo trans failure of some sort, and the issue turned out to be lack of grounds. Point is, just the Negative Battery Terminal to the Alternator bracket isn't enough. I'd probably go with another from the firewall to the motor since the cab is also bolted to the frame on rubber bushings, and another from the block to the frame. This way you have all your basis covered. Block to sheetmetal, Block to Iron frame, and Block to Battery, you should be good to go.


Then, things like your instrument cluster are plastic, so you'd need to take ground to sheetmetal etc. This is what we mean, you can't have enough grounds. If it doesn't ground naturally, then add a ground to it in the proper place. Taillights for example. Also plastic, each must be grounded to the sheetmetal or they don't work. An idea of a natural ground, would be the starter. It bolts direct to the block so it's naturally grounded, (provided you have the block grounded to all basis).

Yes, bell housing too is a good one.
 

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Hmmm Jose that sparks a question I've been trying to find a answer to, maybe you can tell me. I have my Temp Switch located on the driver side cycl head between the 1st 2 exh. ports. Which is the correct or better location. I have seen a mixed bag when it come to this question.

@ Guardian I will be send you a PM later today for more detaild help, for now do you have any tips for egine to frame, cab to engine, cab to frame grounds. Do I need that many gronds?

The temp sender (for gauge) is also on the driver right under the two middle spark plugs.

So I'm taking out the intake, I need to pull out the distributor and put in the stock distributor. Any tips on removing this? My dad said to mark the spark plug wire that the rotor is pointing to and match it with the one I'm swapping it out with.
 
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The temp sender (for gauge) is also on the driver right under the two middle spark plugs.

So I'm taking out the intake, I need to pull out the distributor and put in the stock distributor. Any tips on removing this? My dad said to mark the spark plug wire that the rotor is pointing to and match it with the one I'm swapping it out with.

Mark the outside of the cap where the #1 plug wire is, then after the cap is off mark the rotor with the base and mark the base with the intake. And it's like a quarter or half turn on the rotor while pulling or installing the dist housing because of the helical gear, and when installing you got to make sure to line up and engage the oil pump drive, it's slotted like a screwdriver.

You replacing gaskets?
 

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Mark the outside of the cap where the #1 plug wire is, then after the cap is off mark the rotor with the base and mark the base with the intake. And it's like a quarter or half turn on the rotor while pulling or installing the dist housing because of the helical gear, and when installing you got to make sure to line up and engage the oil pump drive, it's slotted like a screwdriver.

You replacing gaskets?

Yes, also ran into another problem.
One of the screw washers from the intake manifold fell into the hole where the distributor goes. Need help ASAP!!
 

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Yes, also ran into another problem.
One of the screw washers from the intake manifold fell into the hole where the distributor goes. Need help ASAP!!

Just get the manifold off, maybe you got lucky and it didn't go all the way to the pan. I bet it is either sitting on the oil pump shaft or in the lifter valley. Stick a rag in that hole in the mean time to keep that from happening again and pull that manifold. Vacuum all the dirt and **** off too along the heads so it don't fall in the motor too. :popcorn:
 

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Just get the manifold off, maybe you got lucky and it didn't go all the way to the pan. I bet it is either sitting on the oil pump shaft or in the lifter valley. Stick a rag in that hole in the mean time to keep that from happening again and pull that manifold. Vacuum all the dirt and **** off too along the heads so it don't fall in the motor too. :popcorn:

Im gonna try sticking a magnet down the hole. I didn't find the washer after taking off the intake so if the magnet doesn't work I guess I'll pull off the oil pan.

Would it be bad to leave the washer in the oil pan?
 

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Im gonna try sticking a magnet down the hole. I didn't find the washer after taking off the intake so if the magnet doesn't work I guess I'll pull off the oil pan.

Would it be bad to leave the washer in the oil pan?

Aww ****. If it made it down to the bottom of the pan it would stay there and not cause an issue IMO, but if it got caught anywhere in the rotating assembly or distributor/pump bore, then it might cause a problem. In a perfect world, you would want to drop the pan and confirm it is there and not stuck somewhere it is going to cause damage, unless you get lucky fishing with a magnet.

I been there before. I was putting a cam in and the old lifters were mushroomed and I couldn't get them out so I had to drop them down into the pan, 2 of them got stuck in the crank/rods on the way down out of 16.
 

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Aww ****. If it made it down to the bottom of the pan it would stay there and not cause an issue IMO, but if it got caught anywhere in the rotating assembly or distributor/pump bore, then it might cause a problem. In a perfect world, you would want to drop the pan and confirm it is there and not stuck somewhere it is going to cause damage, unless you get lucky fishing with a magnet.

I been there before. I was putting a cam in and the old lifters were mushroomed and I couldn't get them out so I had to drop them down into the pan, 2 of them got stuck in the crank/rods on the way down out of 16.

Well no luck with the magnet. I see the shaft where the distributor sits and right under that I see oil (oil pan i'm guessing). So i'm hoping that if i can't see the washer, that it fell into the oil pan. I'm letting the permatex sit for right now. I'm gonna put everything back together and if I'm still up to it, i'll drop the oil pan and look for that dam thing.
 

HotRodPC

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Yes, also ran into another problem.
One of the screw washers from the intake manifold fell into the hole where the distributor goes. Need help ASAP!!

It probably fell to the oil pan. It's big enough, it can stay at the bottom of the pan and not hurt a thing. You are talking an intake manifold BOLT right? Not a small screw? It might be big enough too it get wedged on top of the oil pump shaft, so still try a telescoping magnetic chaser down the hole to pull it up. But if it fell thru to the pan, I'd leave it and replace the bolt.
 

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Well no luck with the magnet. I see the shaft where the distributor sits and right under that I see oil (oil pan i'm guessing). So i'm hoping that if i can't see the washer, that it fell into the oil pan. I'm letting the permatex sit for right now. I'm gonna put everything back together and if I'm still up to it, i'll drop the oil pan and look for that dam thing.

Oh, it's just the washer??? Fugg it. Leave it. Rock on !!!

If you are that worried about it, just get a magnetic drain plug so the washer stays near the drainplug all the time, but it won't hurt anything as long as it sits on the bottom of the pan.
 

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So we just finished. We installed everything, took the truck out for a spin. Seems to be a little off on the timing. Also the dam choke light stayed on!

Ill look more into the choke light tomorrow or next week, but other than that its looking good!

Anyone have any ideas in the meantime?
 

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I finally found something on one of the unplugged connectors.

The green highlighted connectors shown here

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The grey connector is connected to a hot wire then leads to the tan plug which plugs into a 2-stage accelerator pump on the front pass side of the carb

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then from there it goes to a temp switch on the thermostat housing

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the 2-wire plug on the pass side front of the carbis a 2-stage accelerator pump, and it’s controlled totally by temperature and vacuum controls. It basically gives twice the "squirt" when it’s cold to aid in cold engine operation. I believe this was only done on 85-86 models. I may be wrong though.
 
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