Engine wiring/vacuum connections!

[89Suburban]

Hey, it's fixed, it turned out something simple, that is a story I would like to hear for my own issues, lol!!!

Thanks for the update.

 

[HotRodPC]

He did take the long way around finding the simple fix, but nonetheless, it was an educational experience for certain, and other will read the thread and get some good info. It's all good. Just another satisfied customer.

 

[chengny]

Never check for continuity across a fuse while it is still in the circuit. The meter will always show continuity.


And don't go by visual inspection - pull it and use a meter.

If the fusible link in the little window is broken/melted, well then, it goes without saying - the fuse is bad.

But the converse does not apply. In other words, the visible portion of the link may appear to be intact but it might still be broken.

People get sick of hearing me saying it (read: my son) - but it is always prudent to check fuses with a Fluke or by switching with a known good one - before tearing things apart.

When you think about it - it makes sense. During it's lifetime, some fuses take a beating.

They get violently yanked out with needlenose pliers, screwdriver tips, twisted by fingertips etc and then they are shoved/wiggled back in. Depending on the circuit, this can occur dozens of times.

The greatest stress on the encased fusible wire occurs at the ends where it connnects to the stabs. These connections are not easy to see.

As soon as that joint starts to grow thin due to mechanical stress, resistance/heat increases across the fuse and it fails.

The visible, arched shaped, part of the fuse - the part in the middle window - is only reliable in detecting instantaneous failures due to high current.

 

[ttjordan25]

I've a little stuck on where or what the accumulator (spelling) wires go to (light grn and drk grn wire). Also, do I have to hook up the computer under the dash on the pass. side if the motor I put in is from a 76 vette?

 

[jgasca]

Never check for continuity across a fuse while it is still in the circuit. The meter will always show continuity.


And don't go by visual inspection - pull it and use a meter.

If the fusible link in the little window is broken/melted, well then, it goes without saying - the fuse is bad.

But the converse does not apply. In other words, the visible portion of the link may appear to be intact but it might still be broken.

People get sick of hearing me saying it (read: my son) - but it is always prudent to check fuses with a Fluke or by switching with a known good one - before tearing things apart.

When you think about it - it makes sense. During it's lifetime, some fuses take a beating.

They get violently yanked out with needlenose pliers, screwdriver tips, twisted by fingertips etc and then they are shoved/wiggled back in. Depending on the circuit, this can occur dozens of times.

The greatest stress on the encased fusible wire occurs at the ends where it connnects to the stabs. These connections are not easy to see.

As soon as that joint starts to grow thin due to mechanical stress, resistance/heat increases across the fuse and it fails.

The visible, arched shaped, part of the fuse - the part in the middle window - is only reliable in detecting instantaneous failures due to high current.

Yeah I guess I took the lazy (wrong) way of checking fuses. But lesson learned, even if it was the long hard way. Hell I wouldn't know as much as I do now about my truck (thanks to all of you) so I wouldn't have it any other way!!

I've a little stuck on where or what the accumulator (spelling) wires go to (light grn and drk grn wire). Also, do I have to hook up the computer under the dash on the pass. side if the motor I put in is from a 76 vette?

I think the plug with three wires looks like a plug that might go into the distributor, I may be completely wrong though

 

[chengny]

The staggered connector indicated by the arrow is the power lead to the A/C compressor clutch.

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Follow the wires from the compressor back along the valve cover and up against the firewall. You should find another connector that is similar but reversed.

Plug the two connectors together and the clutch should pull in if the climate control on the dash is set to A/C.

 

[chengny]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ttjordan25]

how do I find out what Ported vacuum switch to buy I think they came in 104 degrees and maybe 110..? and the correct EGR washer to use, I dont have the oem EGR No. to go off of

 

[Guardian]

Travis, are you doing a resto on this truck? You shouldn't have to have the EGR in Texas.

 

[ttjordan25]

Hey

I am hung up on the Maxi Fuse in the painles kit. I have the starter wire (916) and the (904) wire hooked to the maxi fuse, and every time I power the batt terminals I blows the fuse.... I called painless, and let just say Im more cunfused now than before I call them!

 

[89Suburban]

Hey

I am hung up on the Maxi Fuse in the painles kit. I have the starter wire (916) and the (904) wire hooked to the maxi fuse, and every time I power the batt terminals I blows the fuse.... I called painless, and let just say Im more cunfused now than before I call them!

Must be shorting somewhere on the cab side, or something is connected wrong. Trace it out.

 

[ttjordan25]

Ok tonight I hooked up a 2amp batt charger rather than the truck batt. and the fuse held. the volt meter was reading 13 or 14 on the dash guage (with key in on postion). I moved the AC switch over to low and the volt metter dropped big time. Is this a normal sign??
I also tested most of the other wires for continuity and i was gettign a pos. reading.

Last week I had the starter wire going from firewall fuse box to directly to the starter and batt terminal. and I didn't have the AC relay poweer wire hooked up. everything tested fine then, when I hooked the truck batt. up. Yesterday I put the maxie fuse between the firewall fuse boxs and the starter, as well as hooked up the AC relay or blower relay (not sure which it is) power wire inline with the starter. Once I connceted the batt. to test every thing again the maxie fuse blew.

So if this is a little unclear, but this is my first wire just, and I'm not very good at explaining what its doing or not doing.

 

[89Suburban]

By AC switch you mean the fan speed selector? They are known to burn out.


Sent from my iPod Touch 4th Gen.

 

[sierra83]

1985 - 305 - low altitude - federal - w/automatic:

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1985 305/350 common - low altitude - federal - w/automatic

You must be registered for see images attach

Note: low altitude just means regular emissions package - as opposed to high altitude
federal means - not California

where can i find this layout for an 83 305

 

[89Suburban]

where can i find this layout for an 83 305

Actually, quite shocking, but Googling around for you I just found out Autozone's site has these also. Take a look and if it matches your specs bring it back here and post it so we can add it.