emission removal

[89Suburban]

left the ones going to the brakes. transmission is a 700. truck came with a manual choke. should i install that one or leave the electric choke? not even sure if the electric choke is working.

Your avatar is hurtin my neck duder.

 

[rare86]

You said you hooked the vacuum line for the distributer to the manifold. It needs to go to the carb. Id have to see the carb to know where it would go but its not full time vacuum.
I didnt see anything about your pcv valve being hooked up from the valve cover to the carb either, so make sure that one is on as well. Also, when i removeg the air pump from my 86 it didnt require a different belt, I just left that one off.

 

[Swims350]

I mentioned all of that already except for the belt, good point some do have a belt for it only and you just remove it, others you just need to tell them the truck make and model and engine, then w/o the air pump, and if THEY can't do it, go to their website yourself and look it up. if you have an autozone, go to their site and enter your info and find the part number for the belt. Call em up ask if they have that part number in stock and if so to lay it out for you, drive down pick it up and GIT R DONE!!!!!!!

 

[HotRodPC]

You said you hooked the vacuum line for the distributer to the manifold. It needs to go to the carb. Id have to see the carb to know where it would go but its not full time vacuum.
I didnt see anything about your pcv valve being hooked up from the valve cover to the carb either, so make sure that one is on as well. Also, when i removeg the air pump from my 86 it didnt require a different belt, I just left that one off.

rare 86 is correct. Vac advanced must be hooked to ported vacuum port on the carb. Usually in the upper part or center of the carb. Not near the base of the card. Ported Vac is dead with no vacuum at idle. Come off idle then the port comes to life with vacuum.

 

[crazy4offroad]

In strict areas I have heard of people disassembling the pump and grinding the fins off the pump's prop. Reassemble, then just make the lines look like they're hooked to something and the AIR pump is just acting like an idler pulley, which is good if you have something else that rides on that same belt and you cant really eliminate it easily without some fabrication.

 

[Swims350]

I hear guys all the time argue over ported vs. full vac. on the dist. I ALWAYS run mine ported, always, it just works better for me.

 

[HotRodPC]

I beg to differ.

In strict areas I have heard of people disassembling the pump and grinding the fins off the pump's prop. Reassemble, then just make the lines look like they're hooked to something and the AIR pump is just acting like an idler pulley, which is good if you have something else that rides on that same belt and you cant really eliminate it easily without some fabrication.

I also hear of people doing the same thing and its ridiculous. An AIR pump more well known as a smog pump, when actually its purpose is not a pump at all. Technically it is a pump, because is does take ambient air and injects the air into the exhaust manifold. AIR for Air Injection Reactor. I think it should be called Air Injector but I'm a nobody so go with everyone else. That AIR does nothing but absord maybe 2hp at the very most. Probably less after its well broke in. And it has a very beneficial purpose. What the AIR does, is injects fresh air to the hot exhaust as it exits the combustion chamber. By doing so, it causes that exhaust gas to reignite and reburn again in the exhaust manifold so that by the time the exhaust exits the tailpipe its cleaner with less PPM of HC (Parts per Million of Hydrocarbons). In a dual bed converter system. Speakiing of Cat Converter, one of the beds does its normal what all converters do, then one bed has a pipe form the AIR pump where again, air is added to that converter bed and again causeing another reburn. So in that case of a dual bed converter, the exhaust gasses are reburnt 3 times cleaning the exhaust a little more each time. So for the guys who waste their time cheating the system is quite ridiculous. If they might be cutting 1/2 the horsepower draw to 1 hp gain. So if you're going to have the pump, just leave it alone and let it do its job. Here is where I agree that the pump it a problem. It does get in the way of doing other work under the hood. Also if you want to run headers you have the pump hardware to deal with. Other than it being in the way or something else to maintain, its not a problem may as well leave it alone. Here is the other problem with the pump. The love to seize. So if you're one of those that think you'll just take the belt off of it until next inspection a year later, chances are the pump will seize from non use ulnless you figure out a way to keep the moisture out of it. Sorry for the long post, but maybe some of you will get an education out of it. And its not just my opinion, its the facts. If anyone disagrees or don't beleive me, I encourage you to do your own research. I had to deal with those pumps all the time when I lived in So Cal as a smog testing technician.

 

[HotRodPC]

I hear guys all the time argue over ported vs. full vac. on the dist. I ALWAYS run mine ported, always, it just works better for me.

You'll never hear me argue over it. Lets think about this for a minute. Common sense says, you set you initial timing at idle. At idle you don't want advanced timing. That can also cause hard starting or vapor lock. So if you set your timing at idle with vacuum advancing the timing, then what gain do you get from vac advance when you know the second you romp on the gas pedal you actually have a drop in vacuum. So would it not make sense that if your inirial timing is set with vacuum active, then you romp on it, your advance would actually retrard would it not? Sure it would. Where as if you are initial timing at idle with no advance at all, then you come off idle your going to have at least some vacuum to cause vacuum to advance timing along with mechanical advance from your dizzy weights. Really, its common sense if you think about it. Vacuum advance goes to PORTED vacuum always. Again to prove my point. Don't all automakers say to remove vacuum advance to set inirial timing? Yes they do. So if you do this, then hook it to manifold vacuum what happens? You just threw your initial timing setting right out the window. DUH. May as well just set the initial timing with vacuum hooked up. Just saying, PORTED, or don't bother hooking it up at all.

 

[crazy4offroad]

A friend of mine has a Toyota FJ-60 and pretty much had to gut the AIR pump to keep power steering and pass inspection. It was a really funky looking belt setup and couldn't really be eliminated. Plus the inspection stations can be pretty strict around here. Pollution parts have to be in place and at least look functional. Someone who let you slide last year may not even have their inspection license this year, it's that bad. But you're right, the pump is a high-volume low pressure pump so there is literally no draw on the motor, unlike an a/c compressor.

As far as vacuum advance goes, it really depends on the cam you have. Some manufacturers require full vacuum and higher advance. But a stock cam should only need timed vacuum and about 8 degrees of advance.

 

[Ingram]

thank you for all of the info. I'm new at all of this so it is all helpful. i am pretty dumb so far on the carb motors. sorry about the avatar. can't figure out how to turn it. here are some pics of the motor as it sits now after removing alot of the vacuum lines.

 

[Swims350]

much better buddy but aint that can thing next to the PS valve cover part of the air system? remove it!!!! lol.

As for ported vac. I know man I'm with you all the way HRPC, not to mention the fact it's vac. coms in right off idle. I mean come on you're only getting vac. at idle with it full time. I see that doing nothing.

I run an aftermarket cam and it works best with ported, it's a comp 268h. My old man had a nasty cam and he ran it ported too. if the thing has vac. at idle I'd think it's only because of rough idle to try and bring it up, and IMO set the idle speed up or base timing ot vac. If not then it's time to look into a curve kit to bring in mech. adv. early.

As I said though ppl always argue different things, it's like asking which oil is best.

 

[Ingram]

are you talking about the thing on the smog pump. want to take the smog pump off completely. where exactly on the carb does the line from the distibutor go? thank you so much for the info. i am pretty clueless as of right now but i am trying to read and learn.

 

[Swims350]

yep it's that little funny looking can thing on the 2nd pic right next to the alternator or under it and then next to the valve cover. I would remove it all. You got headers it's doing nothing as is, unbolt that sucker and trash it.

As for the vac. I forget buddy I got them same edelbrock carbs I'll have to check. I got one on dad's 84c10 and one on my brother in laws 85 monte carlo ss.

The easiest way right off is to pull each one off the front, ONLY the SMALL lines, one will cause the idle speed to raise and be sucking air, that is full vac. the other will not be sucking or change idle speed, that is timed/ported and where I would put my vac. for my dist.

Fire it up, open the hood and pulll off one line, if it has vac. hook it back up and then hook your dist. to the OTHER one. if the one you pull doesn't have vac. hook the dist. to it.

according to my pictures I got on here it's hooked to the ps.

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[HotRodPC]

If you have a big cam, chances are you don't get a benefit form vac advance anyway, so you may as well just leave it disconnected and then work on your centrifical weights for more mechanical advance. I can see someone gutting a pump if it seized and they want to save the $100 for a new one that is gonna seize in time too for another $100, just to stay legal. That would make perfect sense.

Yes, if you're running headers Ingram, and don't have the AIR pump plumbing in the manifolds, and don't require inspection, go for it. Pull that junk off. That is a good reason to get rid of it. You should only have 2 small ports on the front of an Eddy Carb. Its easy to find the right one. Pull the hose off the port while idling. You sholdn't feel vacuum. So the one you don't feel vacuun, then keep your finger over it, raise the throttle with your ohter hand just off idle and you should all of a sudden feel vacuum. That is the one you want to connect vac advance to.

 

[HotRodPC]

thank you for all of the info. I'm new at all of this so it is all helpful. i am pretty dumb so far on the carb motors. sorry about the avatar. can't figure out how to turn it. here are some pics of the motor as it sits now after removing alot of the vacuum lines.

I notice the dizzy location in the before pic. Looks like it could use a pull and restab. As long as its running good it doesn't matter alot, and hope you don't need anymore timing adjustment since it looks you're about out of room before the vac advance ball hits the intake. I'm anal about that and I'd have pulled it and restabbled it then walked the wires back around to proper location.