Would you run these lug nuts? Studs are a little short.

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Toad455

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I just put on the rear disc set up. I did the Chevy Astro van rear disc swap. The center thickness of the rotor vs the original drum is about .115 thicker, so the wheel sits out just a tad less than 1/8" more than it did. The wheel in the pics are not what I'm going to run but will use the factory type nut like in the pic, not the long ones they are only there to hold the wheel on. I'm going to run the series 55 rally wheels. The nut goes on but there's about 3 threads shy. I don't see any studs available but the ones that are 3" longer. I've ran cars/trucks years ago missing nuts but I'm not that brave anymore. Would 3 threads make any difference?
 

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Ricko1966

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I'm kinda brave I'd have to see what you have to know if I'd run it. I think if I had a more depth than width I'd run it.

 

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Thanks for the Dorman link, I'll knock out a stud later today from a spare rear end and do some measuring. Trucks in pieces so pics won't do much good, it's just a 78 C10 with rear disc swap.
 

bucket

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3 threads shy of what?

How much thread engagement is there? That's what really matters.
 

Toad455

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3 threads shy of being flush with the stud. I've got .440 of stud sticking out of the wheel, it was .540 before with the drum. Sorry, I forgot to add my pics, they are there now.
 
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Toad455

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I just put on the rear disc set up. I did the Chevy Astro van rear disc swap. The center thickness of the rotor vs the original drum is about .115 thicker, so the wheel sits out just a tad less than 1/8" more than it did. The wheel in the pics are not what I'm going to run but will use the factory type nut like in the pic, not the long ones they are only there to hold the wheel on. I'm going to run the series 55 rally wheels. The nut goes on but there's about 3 threads shy. I don't see any studs available but the ones that are 3" longer. I've ran cars/trucks years ago missing nuts but I'm not that brave anymore. Would 3 threads make any difference?

I just found some on Amazon, not sure of quality but I'm sure they are overseas. But they are .500 longer, so making up for being .125 short I'll have .375 extra. I don't think I'll have to cut them down for the rally derby caps but we'll see since I don't have them yet.
 

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Theoretically you need about 10 threads of engagement or the same length as the lug diameter for full engagement and capacity.
However seems you’re correct based on your numbers you’re at least 2 threads shy likely. Did you count rotations though? May be a bit better than you think.
Remember lug nuts come in all different lengths. Full thread engagement to the nut is standard for standard and heavy hex nutz in structural applications. In your case you could have more threads than needed for full engagement and could be just fine without the lug threads flushing out with the nut.
I had same issue with the K20 sitting on the aluminum rims it came with. I think it only had 6-7 turns total on the nutz. But ran it for a year like that because it had been run for probably 15 years or more like that when I got it.
Same thing with the C10 when I switched to alloy wheels. Used extended shank lug nuts on it. This will likely work for you too.
 

Toad455

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I checked the rotations last night, seems like it was 6 turns. I did find some studs on Amazon that are .500 longer although I don't trust the quality. Taking up the .125 I'm short that would give me .375 extra.
 
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bucket

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There's pics now. I think I'd run them. Id be sure I used good lug nuts.

Yep, me too. Looks like there's more thread engagement than 1/2" (stud diameter) so it should be fine. Definitely check the torque after some road miles though.
 

bucket

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BTW, I'm counting what looks to be 10 or 11 usable threads in that top picture.
 

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I have the same thread engagement on my 66 Impala with open lug nuts.
Never had a problem.
 

Toad455

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Sounds good, thanks everyone for the replies. I'll run it this way. I really like this forum, it's unlike others I've been on like the diesel and hot rod forums where you get your head ripped off for asking questions, seems more civilized here.
 

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I agree with the others, I'd run that as well. I'd just check torque here and there for a while till you know they don't come loose.
 

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