Wheel bearing problems… please help!

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falserain328

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I’ve got a 1985 c10, over the weekend I did the front rotors, pads and wheel bearings, my old bearings were still good and the ones from Napa were not the right size so I re used the old ones, after assembling everything I’m getting a humming noise, definitely from the driver side not sure on the passenger side, I made sure everything is tight my hub assembly doesn’t wobble when the wheels are off the ground, could my castle nuts be too loose? Or tight? I’ve tried a couple different times but honestly I’m at a loss.
 

Goldie Driver

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This basic procedure is what I have always used.

( It's about halfway down where they talk about packing the bearings. )

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1139/4205243/

Tighten until there is resistance, back off, and align the castle nut with the closest slot upper and lower that allows the cotter pin to go through the spindle.
 

rusted nuts

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Copymutt

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Occasionally you’ll find backing off the castellated nut leaves undesirable looseness. Spindle bearing shims are the answer.
 

78C10BigTen

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This basic procedure is what I have always used.

( It's about halfway down where they talk about packing the bearings. )

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1139/4205243/

Tighten until there is resistance, back off, and align the castle nut with the closest slot upper and lower that allows the cotter pin to go through the spindle.
This is why i havent done rotors on either of my 2wd trucks lol. Im worried about "scared of" doin the wheel bearings.
 

falserain328

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This basic procedure is what I have always used.

( It's about halfway down where they talk about packing the bearings. )

https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1139/4205243/

Tighten until there is resistance, back off, and align the castle nut with the closest slot upper and lower that allows the cotter pin to go through the spindle.
I really appreciate this, I’m gonna tear it all back down again this weekend and figure it out.
 

Novapwr

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You didn't switch the bearings side to side did you? Many years ago my brother once swapped the bearings by accident and it made an odd noise then failed shortly after.
 

GTX63

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If you want to know whether you have a wheel bearing that is failing, and from where, drive your truck down the road and listen as you make turns. If you hear noise when you make a hard right turn, the bearing(s) on the left wheel are failing, and vice versa. They tend to growl when weight is shifted on their side.
That is assuming you don't have open headers and 5.13 gears on 37s MudHogs. Those are sort of what I consider "noise canceling".
 

fast 99

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Was there any evidence of red color, crud, metal or rust before repack? When a bad bearing is suspected clean the bearing completely of all grease. Many do not inspect the inner race, just the outer. The under a light look in the slots between the cage. Turn the inner race and inspect for any sign of damage.

After assembly, a stethoscope can also be used to isolate a bad bearing.

Really, if a bearing is suspect replacements aren't that expensive compared to a tow and possibly replacing a spindle and hub. Just get new parts.
 

falserain328

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You didn't switch the bearings side to side did you? Many years ago my brother once swapped the bearings by accident and it made an odd noise then failed shortly after.
Honestly that might be the problem, I didint even think about that, I’m getting new parts and just gonna re do it
 

squaredeal91

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Sounds like it might be solved, and I hope it is. I Once did bearings behind someone and they simply didn't install races all the way in and they went loose right away and made noise and got warm quickly. I made sure they were in and readjusted them. All was well.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Honestly that might be the problem, I didint even think about that, I’m getting new parts and just gonna re do it
Another good reason to work on one side at a time. Besides having an "original/this is how it goes back together" side to look at for reference.
 

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