Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by jjester6000, Nov 21, 2020.
I've always told Kooper when he drives the Chevelle(not often) right foot down left foot up!!!!!
You can but oil for $10ish/5 qts so a little cheaper . But I still get what your saying and agree.
None. It's an Audi. No leaks and it's 11 years old. Must be the fault of ze german engineering. I have my Squares and my Impala for marking everywhere I've been
My daily, '01 Montana with 226k, leaks oil from the distributor plug gasket. The body also leaks metal flakes at a consistent rate.
My square leaks from... everywhere. Unless I drive it consistently. Then the seals revive themselves and its fine.
Here ya go. I'll try to locate the p/n. It is a GM part.
Found it! GM part number:
The Mighty TDI tends to leave an oil spot. Although it's a lot less since I fixed the oil cooler.
Strangely, the square doesn't leave any stains since I fixed the transmission cooler lines. Now it just generally sweats oil, but doesn't leave any spots. Sometimes I think a little leaking is better. It makes a good rust preventative.
My 2007 Cummins 5.9L likes to leak from the rear seal. I just put a new one in approx 15K ago when I installed a new clutch. It's leaking again. Before that, the oil pan rusted through on the front corner. Not to be outdone, the steering box seems to be wet now. It's not dripping on the ground yet. But, give it time and I'm sure that it will.
So what is that telling you?
My daily doesn't leak anything but pride and testosterone. I think it all leaked out
Far as i know my suburban doesnt leak anything except a teeny tiny bit of ATF from the speedo gear cover on the trans.
Just fixed the s10 blowing ps fluid past the cap today, swapped the current fitting with another High pressure fitting with a smaller drilled ID, and modded my valve for 1200 psi instead of >1400 psi, as well as stretched the High RPM return spring a tad bit more
No more leaks
My yellow truck runs real good and smooth, but has low oil pressure and some pretty worn main bearings.
(I found a couple metal shavings on the dip stick once)
It was starting to rattle a bit, so I just changed the oil with 5 quarts of 20w50 (I had been topping it off with 10w40) and 1 quart of 90w140 gear oil (no joke).
No more rattle.
Thank god I have a block heater, or I'd probably break the oil pump drive shaft.
It has 80-100 psi in compression on a good day, and to seems to have piston slap and some minor rod knock.
I started the Burb to warm it up this morning then went back inside,slicked my and got dressed. I come back outside to discover that it quit.
I then noticed that the gas gauge really meant it when it said E, (you can usually get about 90 or so miles out of that 42 gallon tank after it says E) so I had to take 'Ol Yeller to work today, and was pleasantly surprised that the rear main seal leak has been significantly slowed by the real thick oil.
Also, you should see this brutal cold start I did on it in 20 degree temperatures.
No leaks on mine
Separate names with a comma.