Vibration at 65

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Honky Kong jr

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Hey, have you posted any pictures with the new wheels? That profile has been the same since you joined if memory serves.
I brought that up a while ago........I think he misses the Ghetto wheels
 

rpcraft

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Check your motor mounts, transmission mount, ujoints, and rear pinion. Probably all of them are worn out. The motor and Trans mounts are not expensive to replace, just a little challenging on the motor mounts. Likewise the Ujoints are cheap and easy to replace, especially if you have a vice. if not then get a ujoint tool from autozone or some place similar. They usually have loaners. As far as the rear pinion goes. It might be able to be tightened some, but chances are if it's got a lot of miles on it then it needs a bearing replacement, which means you will have to do the third member as well... It might be something a mechanic might not charge too much for if all it really needs is the pinion bearing, but chances are it will need the side bearings on the diff as well. If your truck has a two piece drive shaft also the middle coupler or whatever it's called (carrier bearing I think?) might need replacement.
 

DrPrepper

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I'd like to suggest...Cracked rotor
 

spanky55amg

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Hey, have you posted any pictures with the new wheels? That profile has been the same since you joined if memory serves.
Ive posted pics, but Id like to get the center caps bolted on and still missing one ring.
 

RustyPile

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Since I purchased this truck, it has had a vibration. Now, when it had the 22's, it happened at like 73 or 75 mph. I thought maybe it is was the big dumb wheels. I since put on a set of stockers with a 235/75 and it still has a vibration but now at 65.

Ok, I know this is now rotational to RPM. It happens at about 1800 rpm and is especially worse in OD. I felt something like this before and it was a poly trans mount in my 4th gen f body. So I replace the $11 transmission mount. That took away about 50% of vibration.

Now, I know these trucks are old and Im not expecting a smooth ride, but this pretty bad. The only other thing I could thing of is the engine mounts. Do y'all think that engine mounts would do that? I mean, it only starts to happen around 63-64 mph but its like a light switch that turns on at 65 mpg or ~ 1800 rpm in OD.

What do you think?
For an engineer, you sure have a lot of trouble keeping your truck up and running.. You had to seek help with a simple transmission leak.. Let's not even go into the wheel issues.

And now this?? Did the truck have this vibration before you phukked with the transmission.. If it didn't, have you considered the fact that you probably broke more than you fixed?? Since you're big on meters, I'm surprised you haven't engaged your engineering training and experience and used a seismograph to track down the problem. After you get the seismograph in place and hooked up, you can depress the [expand] button.. That allows the meter to cancel out all ignorance and incompetence...
 

rpcraft

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Someone's salty today, lol. I've known enough engineers and otherwise intelligent people to not be surprised he's on the forum trying to figure it out.
 

Big Chip

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Snoots

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Time to dig out the old Turboentabulator.

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yevgenievich

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in attempt to bring this back to topic. I have went trough a vibration that I believe is solved now. I still get the front in a bit of oscillation on very bumpy sections of the highway, but otherwise the items that all contributed in my case are: tires, shocks, driveshaft. Transmission can also be an issue, but for my case, I have a fresh t case that checked out fine.
 

Snoots

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Had a vehicle vibration once that was hard to track down. After checking tightness of all suspension pieces, re-balancing wheels, pulling the axles and having them checked for true and new U-Joints it turned out to be the driveshaft.
 

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