Transmission pan gasket replacement

[cha4tterbox]

Last weekend, I changed my first transmission pan gasket on my Turbo 350. When I was putting it back together, the pan moved and the gasket isn't even along the edge. It started to drip. So I am redoing it again. This time, I will put the bolts into the bolt holes to keep the gasket from shifting. My question is do I need to torque the bolts to 12 ft lbs after I get them snugged or after I get them snugged, am I supposed to just give them a half of a turn with a regular ratchet and socket? I did my transmission gasket once ,my second time I really wanted to be successful. Thank you all, I hope every single one of y'all have a blessed day.

 

[Sad Sack]

snug them and then going every other bolt get them to 15 ft lbs. is how I do it.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Shop manual says 110in/lb

 

[Sad Sack]

Shop manual says 110in/lb

Good to know.

 

[DoubleDingo]

OP, if you overtorqued the bolts, or if they have been in the past, the pan may be warped. I would recommend checking with a straight edge and flattening any irregularities at the bolt holes.

 

[Radiohead]

Just like the old style valve covers. Easy to do with a couple ball peen hammers.

Having the torque wrench wrists helps too. You know, clicks at low torque values....

 

[Grit dog]

Agree, make sure the pan didn’t get warps by some monkey previously.
Then, idk never used a torque wrench (on much of anything except like head gaskets and mains etc).
Trans pans, old tin valve covers, tin oil pans etc. all get “wrist snug” with a 1/4 drive ratchet.. lol.

 

[Matt69olds]

As mentioned, make sure the pan is flat and clean.

The tan smooth gaskets work great if installed correctly. They basically glue themselves to the case. The key is to make sure everything is clean and dry during installation.