Torque converter connector

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HotRodPC

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Hey HotRod, would the lock-up function affect the TV cable adjustment?

It actually should not. But as Boone said, he did his. A fine tuning might not be a bad idea. As far as affecting the adjustment, NO it won't at all. But what you might want to do is adjust it so it works better with lockup. You don't want it to hit 4th then instantly lock up as if it's going into 4th and locking up at the same time. You kinda want it to feel like lock up just went into 5th gear.
 

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Well, I finally got around to changing the pressure switch over to the 4th gear pressure port and plugged the 4-3 port. I was out of commission for a couple days with a Hideous Gout attack on my right foot.(That **** is unrealistically painful) I also got my indicator light installed right next the brake release handle. I've gotta go get some more ATF(dexmerc), and fill it up and take it for a spin. I'm still wondering why my TV cable came out of whack.
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VAL

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Well, the moving of the pressure switch over to the 4th gear pressure port did the trick.
I took it for a cruise on the freeway, hit the switch, and lock-up was achieved! I need to get an adjustable vacuum switch now. I was reading the reviews on the TCI vacuum switch from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tci-cmp3766b/reviews , and they say its way too sensitive, almost impossible to get it dialed into the sweet spot for lock-up. Any suggestions?
 

HotRodPC

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Then I'd go ahead and give an OEM switch a try. You just might find it works the way it's way it's intended to. Maybe even be able to snag one from a U Pull It place for dirt cheap or even top of the tool box cheap. Small crap like that, I throw in the top of my box. As long as I don't have 10 or 20 of them, when they check my box on the way out, they don't even charge me for it. I always make sure I get my $1 back in small hardware. It might be starter shims, or carb mounting bolts, whatever, but they don't charge for that little ****.
 

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X2 free bee is always nice
 

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I am hopeful that the original vac switch on my truck still works, although I am doubtful it does. The connector was slightly melted when I disconnected it. Is there a way to test them with a meter and a gauge?
 

HotRodPC

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I am hopeful that the original vac switch on my truck still works, although I am doubtful it does. The connector was slightly melted when I disconnected it. Is there a way to test them with a meter and a gauge?

I'd imagine if you had a continuity tester and a Vac pump with gauge you could test it. Just hook vacuum to it, with the continuity tester connected, to the hot side, then hit the pump and see at what hg's the light comes on. That would tell if you it works and at what hg's it came on at.
 

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I went ahead and wired up the original vacuum switch, just for the hell of it. Took it out for a cruise, and much to my amazement, the ******* thing worked flawlessly! It locked up the converter a split second after 4th gear, and unlocked it under heavy acceleration. I would have liked it, to lock it up a few seconds after 4th gear, but I can live with it.
 

HotRodPC

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Yeah, I figured it would have worked. It's very basic system and not much about it to fail really. So that's awesome ****. You might very well get an extra 1/2 -1 mpg better on the highway now. If for nothing else, your transmission will be loving you for running alot cooler now. With the converter locked up by the TCC, that eliminates all the friction inside the torque converter so the transmission runs much cooler. Probably 20-30 degrees cooler while highway driving at cruising speed.
 

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So I'm very disappointed with the tcc solenoid I bought off Ebay.
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Lasted only 4 months. all of a sudden my TC stopped locking up, blew the fuse. After diagnosing everything, it turned out the new solenoid fried, and shorted out the circuit. I put a another solenoid I ordered through Rockauto, hopefully its a better quality and lasts a lot longer.
 

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