th350 case advise

[Tyger13us]

Ok,, thanks dude...

I did notice that there wasnt a wave plate in the direct 4 clutch pac,, so i rounded one up and trying to set the direct drum up...

but its too tight,, no clearance for the clutches,, i looked over the other direct drums,, out of for sure v8 trucks.
but it has the same problem,, no clearance..

Soooooooo,, i guess i will just leave out the wave plate in the direct clutch drum..
it has .045 clearance with 4 clutches and 4 steals..

no room for an extra steel and clutch,, or a wave plate...

rule of thumb has always been? going from memory here,,, .010 for every clutch....

thought about having the piston turned down,, but havent completely made up my mind yet...

id have to buy all new clutches and steels for the direct drum if i went that route...

its early,, aint even had coffee yet.....

 

[Matt69olds]

You can machine the piston to accept 5 clutches. If your planning on beating up on a 350 the5clutvhes should be considered mandatory. I have cut them on a brake drum lathe, shoot for .010- .015 per friction.

Are you using a shift kit with a transfer plate to dual-feed the direct clutches? If not, another must do. A wide direct drum bushing is also a good idea

 

[Tyger13us]

ok.. decided to go through the whole 9 yards......
full kit clutches and steels,, all bushings and seals,, intermediate sprag and HD race,, low and revers sprag with the bolt in case saver..
also going to use the anti clunk spring..
wide direct drum bushing,, double up on the sun gear bushings..

I have a trans go th350 1&2 kit already with the dual feed set up for the direct drum..
red pressure spring and all the other trans go kit stuff....
im thinking thats what save this dieing trans that came with the truck......

i have a question for the Trans go kit users?
it has that stacked blue spring in the 1st gear ANYTIME,, even @ 6000k rpm...
dont **** up and get first by mistake,,,,, boom,, there goes the motor...

So what other spring would be good to use there?
i have a green one that came with the valve body kit also,,

but the one page photo copy dont say **** about it......

it only shows the stacked blue 1st gear anytime stacked spring........

it would be good,, if i was out in the BFE bouncing around and didnt hit 1st/low when ya hit one of those OH **** ditches or holes.....
flying around in the cab can hit the gear shift lever preety easy............ its happened before..........

trans go calls it shift command,, more like blow your motor up,, woops.....

since i have the kit,, really didnt want to use the stock spring? for 1st/low gear.....

i know someone out there knows what im talking about..........

just so ya all know...

its a 69.. 010 casting high nickle 4 bolt main block,, .040 over and decked,, line bored and all the good **** done to it..

cast iron crank balanced and blued,camfered oil holes and all,, ive broken to many steel cranks,, never broken a cast crank done right...

droped forged seal power pistons,, balanced pink x rods,, Arp rod bolts molly rings...ya know,, done right...

the dude did a **** job on a pair of 041 camel heads and 1 head droped an exhaust seat...

This was on a NEW build motor... tore it down,, pulled the beat up piston,, new piston,, rings and bearings for that hole..
the motor only had 2k on it.....still fresh...

went and bought a pare of Dart Iron Eagles 160/202,, 200cc intake ports and 64 cc chambers with the matching Dart Intake...
not quite 11:1 like it was with the 62cc heads,, but close enough......

just by bolting on the heads and matcing in take,, i pretty much gained 100hp and who knows how much torque??

so,, thats what the th350 was doing after fixing the machine shop **** up i ATE.. they went out of busyness..

long story,, thats what this th350 is in for... decided not to do the 5 clutch drum..
ive had 500-600 hp in front of a th350 before and it lived in 4 different street rods..
the last car was wreaked beyond salvaging parts....well except for the B&M 5000 stall converter...lol...
900 sum bucks back in them daze...

 

[Matt69olds]

The 5 clutches in the direct drum a easy improvement. It’s a good idea. Anything you can do to improve surface area, the dual feed is a huge benefit, the extra clutch just makes a good thing better

 

[Tyger13us]

ok,, got another ******* ???

i went out and tore down a BOP th350 today since the mud is drying up a lil,, ya can walk around a little...

It would seem that it was behind a v6,, and thats by going on the clutch count,, 1 less clutch in all the places where clutches are..

it has full torington bearing throughout... the rear plant gear looks a lil wimpy? compaired to the one that came out of the truck..
im guessing its because its machined for the torington,, other wise the same..

Input shaft and forward drum look spanking new,, but the input shaft that goes into the output shaft has that big ole dick end to it with the nylon o-ring,, not the plastic insert/bushing type end...

there is no bushing in the end of the output shaft,, where the input shaft goes in to it...
this other shaft with this new fangled o-ring is a perfect fit...

how do the new shaft design hold up? or should i just use the plastic bushing insert?
the end of the org shaft is to messed up to use a brass bushing...

i know i will have to change the piston in the forward drum,, to the 5 clutch piston...

i also noticed the input shaft is like a 1/4 inch shorter...

hell,, i dont know,, thats why im asking,, if in doubt ask someone......

didnt find jack on the web about this kind of input shaft......

its not a lock up trans...

if needed i could post picks?

i was reading back in a prior post about using all torington bearing if possible..
the trans didnt even have 60k on it before the motor threw a rod,,v6...
so the guy i got it from put a v8 and 4sp in the car.....

this was so long ago,, i almost forgot about i had this trans..think it an 82?

woops,, forgot to post this,,,

 

[Irishman999]

I can build a stout th350 for a few hundred bucks. I have a parts guy that can get you a good rebuild kit for almost nothing shipped to your door. I always do the bolt in center support in th350's and 700R4's, I also use a case saver for double strength.

 

[Tyger13us]

Update......

today UPS delivered the th350 trans kit i ordered.. https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/OPT-TH350-RB.html

best deal i could find.. i got the hardened direct drum race and steels and some Assembly goop...

i also got the bolt in case saver.. https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/ADC-A74761D.html
also.. best price i could find.... it all got here in 3 daze..

now i gotta get a Wide lower bearing sprag for the case saver...
and i have been looking at this 5 clutch piston for the direct drum... http://www.ckperformance.com/View/TH350-FIVE-FRICTION-DIRECT-CLUTCH-PISTON

looks like a good heavy duty part,, more beef to it than the pistons in the drums i have,,oem..

there rayspestos steels...made in USA

the kit came with borgwarner clutches and band..
it says made in Korea... so much for Borgwarner QUALITY......
I guess preaty much NOTHING is made in the USA anymore...
Knowing that Borgwarner stuff is made in Korea now?

what brand of wide Lower sprag should i get for the case saver?
or they all the same any more.......SMH........
sigh..........

And i Blew 24 bucks on the ATSG th350c manual/disk,, it has a regular 350 subsection on it....
But now i have the book,, since my memory is fading,, im getting old and cant remember **** "CRS" like i used to....
I have to write everything down anymore...... and it seems like i cant type for ****/or spell ether......lol...
But i know what i mean........hahahahahaha i think?

Oh and thanks Irishman and Matt for the input.............

 

[HotRodPC]

Looks like a good kit and plans. If it's not a lock up converter case, I do like the transfer plate method also for the dual feeding better than the more detailed manual method of doing it. I know many prefer the Trans Go kits, but for a Th350, the B&M Shift Improver Kit has always worked for me. It also includes the tranfer plate.

IIRC, the direct 5 clutch piston is just a standard OEM V8 piston.

 

[71RAT]

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Install one of these with a case saver. I just did one in a buddies 77 Corvette that looked like that, so far so good.

I've use several of these, best option to replacing the case. Also upgrades to the larger 4l60e low roller.
Just my opinion and experience.

 

[Tyger13us]

Well? i got it all back together,, .013 end play, with full roller thrust bearings,, and all the trick ****.......

im on the last assembley,, the valve body........

As ya may know,, maybe not? it had a transgo 1-2 kit,, with the red spring... truck heavy duty seting.......

there is a defect in the dual feed plate,, ive looked around,, ALOT and found out this plate does this alot......
it warps to the point to where the dual feed leaks pressure......Because there is no support behind it,,where that big ole square feed hole goes from the case to the pump.. the suction pump feed hole from the valve body...

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i got a couple pics before my camera died..

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Soooooooooooooooooo?
should i just drill out an oem plate to match the trans go plate? and not do the duel feed?
or,, drill the oem plate to match the trans go plate and sanwich it behind on the case to give the transgo plate more suport behind it so it wont be losing pressure at the weak point......

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[Matt69olds]

Your suppose to have the factory transfer plate on top of the parts included in the TransGo kit. If I remember correctly, there is a thin plate that blocks a couple holes, then a plate with the dual feed channel, another plate, and then the factory plate. I’ll find some instructions in the morning and post a couple pics. Or you could probably find instructions online, TCI, TransGo, B&M, etc all use the same method to dual feed

 

[Matt69olds]

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[Tyger13us]

the th350 1&2 kit i have has the transfer dual feed plate spot welded to the case metering plate...

there is no separate duel feed plates like that, that comes in the b&m kit.....

the gasket are top and bottom plate gaskets,, then the duel feed gasket the kit includes covers "there" duel feed plate,, then ya use the oem flat plate spacer support on top of the dual feed plate as usual.....

it seems to me that THERE metering separator plate is made out of cheap steel..
it warps/bends/deforms from reverse gear pressure....

Or they cheaped out and said **** it just spot weld the duel feed plate to the metering plate,, call it good enough....

thats why i asked? would puting another case plate under the transgo plate support it enough?

the thicknes of 2 metering plates combined in that location...

id have to use FULL plates so to keep everything flat and even acrost the trans case so it will seal..

Or should i just use the oem plate drilled out to match the transgo plate holes and say screw the duel feed and not drill those holes.....

I really dont want to tear it down again and do the duel feed the other way...... remove the center seal/remove the pump ring and plug the hole in the case......

but i did do the 5 clutch drum in stead of 4 in the direct drum...

the dude i got the piston from cut it perfect for clearances for the 5 clutch set up....

edit: this is a pic of the trans go 1&2 kit i got,, it shows the dual feed plate on the metering plate,, it is spot welded to the plate...

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the pics above are shots of the transfer dual feed slot,, the back side of the plate pics (above in other thread) shows where it is deformed, there is no support on the back side of the metering plate....

 

[Matt69olds]

Did you punch the hole in the replacement valve body gasket? The gaskets included in the shift kits have one or 2 extra holes for the dual feed. It’s been a long time since I built one with a shift kit installed.

 

[Tyger13us]

Finally!! got it in the truck and going...
i was a 1 man band,, using winch straps,, floor jack,, 2x4's and 4x4s you name it..
glad the truck is high enough i didnt have to jack it up or nothing..

had to put it in with the t-case bolted up to the trans,, no way in hell was i going to stuff the t-case in after the trans was up in there...

im half a cripple,, broken shoulder and a really bad ****** up back...
couldnt find help for the life of me.....

anyway,, works great,, so far,, shifts great all gears auto and manual..
i used the lightest spring on one side of the govenor to raise the shifts a wee bit...one step lighter than what was already in there,, i knew how it shifted before..

come to find out the govenor i had is an ati performance gov,, the one with the holes drilled in the outer weights,, guess it was already set up,, but didnt shift high enough..

Well?!?! now it will wind up to 5500 and shift to second,, better be ready when it shifts and gets second,, it really torques out and squats and trys to get the front tires off the ground,, ON HARD DIRT...

OH? and for the first time? this trans will down shift in to first gear all by its self if under 45 mph and boogie,, then shift @ 5500 to second,, and shifts to 3rd @ 78ish,, all by its self...

no more need to use the gear shifter... like i had to do before....just plant my foot and it does it all by its self.....

with a new modulator valve,, the shifts are high when very easy light throttle,, so ive been backing out the screew half a turn at a time,, seems like sometimes it dont want to shift to 3rd,, if i stab the throttle and let off it goes in to 3rd,, but will go into 2nd if i use to much peddle... all under 25-30 mph,, anything over that its fine.....

guess i will back off the screew some more and see,, may have to put in the gold spring on the modulator valve if it dont settle down,, or maybe try the old modulator one?? it has no vacuum leaks,, but i dont think enough from the motor for it to work as it should..

And i found that the trans gel that i used makes the fluid kinda milky looking in a jar..
i over filled it about 1 quart and pumped it out and it dont look like Fresh out of the jug atf...

i had to mix 2 brands also,, walmart super type and penzoil dex3/merc-f,, dont know if it has any effect.......

WHY? its all they had,, 2 gallons of each and that was all,, except for the 30 dollar a gallon super super synth stuff...

the penz oil is bright cherry red,, the super duty walmart brand is blueish color......

so i plan on getting all one kind and dumping the fluid thats in it with new fresh....
i want to get out the clutch dust and other stuff thats impossable to keep out of the trans while rebuilding it,, ya have to remember I live in the desert dust bowl armpit of the west., lol

no matter how hard you try,, it will get dust in it,, and i even built it in the kitchen where its warm,, but i have a wood stove also,, can only do the best i can do.....

so all in all it works better than new,, but for how long?...lol..