Speaker pods/General stereo questions

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scenic760

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After yet another one of life's little delays I have started installing wires...I was tying to figure out how to mount the amp under the seat and I didn't want to blindly start drilling through the floor. The solution I came up with is a sheet of ABS I put in the oven for about 10 min at 450 F...I was able to mold it to the center hull, put some rivet nuts on it and silicone it to the hump.

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The speakers came with spade connector leads but the wire was 22ga at best. In trying to figure out a way to use the full gauge of the speaker wire all the way to the speaker, I was able to also compensate for my inability to solder very well. I used some solder/seal fitting with new copper spade connectors..run a heat gun on them and they solder and seal. I just had to be careful to not let the solder get into the spade connectors!

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Ricko1966

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I tried several different kick panel speakers and hated every one of them. Sound quality is poor, it reduces leg room and they direct the sound at your feet.
That's probably good for deaf people,right?
 

Camar068

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I was able to also compensate for my inability to solder very well.
While hot, use flux on the tip of your soldering iron then quickly wipe off with a rag. Make sure it's clean.

Just a couple tips to soldering....it's super easy once you "see" the solder flow. Good example video below with and with out flux. With Flux, you'll "see" the wire "take" the solder. Once the "take" is complete....let off.

Just a tip

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scenic760

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While hot, use flux on the tip of your soldering iron then quickly wipe off with a rag. Make sure it's clean.

Just a couple tips to soldering....it's super easy once you "see" the solder flow. Good example video below with and with out flux. With Flux, you'll "see" the wire "take" the solder. Once the "take" is complete....let off.

Just a tip

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Thanks for the kick in the backside on this! I realized my soldering iron was junk and the solder I was using didn't have a flux core...a $12 fix from amazon with a new iron, solder, flux and I'm getting great results now!!
 

Camar068

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Thanks for the kick in the backside on this! I realized my soldering iron was junk and the solder I was using didn't have a flux core...a $12 fix from amazon with a new iron, solder, flux and I'm getting great results now!!
you don't have to depend on solder core. i use solder paste. If anything you'll use too much which can be cleaned up with alcohol. Good thing about the paste is you can see the heat start to flow with the melting of it....then the "flow" I mentioned above. In my eye's, better to have too much flux available, then not enough.

Get a small bucket or tube from amazon and test try what you did to see if you can tell a difference....gives you more time in the process as well.

Another tip, with that paste, dip ur tip into it while it's hot then wipe off with a wet rag. Gets rid of the junk from the last job.....better heat transfer...and saves more time.

Glad it's working out for you.
 
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scenic760

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Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question but I'm going to hook up the head unit and I had a question on the ACC position and the blue/white amp trigger wire.

From what I can tell, the power supply from the head unit doesn't have an "in" from the ACC wire but has an out to the amp that is allegedly triggered by the ACC position on the switch? From what I can tell there is only an in from the ON position (red) and the constant power (yellow)?

Or it looks like the red should connect to ACC?
 

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WFO

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Hopefully this isn't too dumb of a question but I'm going to hook up the head unit and I had a question on the ACC position and the blue/white amp trigger wire.

From what I can tell, the power supply from the head unit doesn't have an "in" from the ACC wire but has an out to the amp that is allegedly triggered by the ACC position on the switch? From what I can tell there is only an in from the ON position (red) and the constant power (yellow)?

Or it looks like the red should connect to ACC?
Red goes to switched power, yellow to constant power (either from the fuse block or cigarette lighter) for clock and preset station memory.
The blue/white is only for when you have additional amp/amps.
It is only hot when the stereo is turned on, to switch the amps on.
 

scenic760

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Red goes to switched power, yellow to constant power (either from the fuse block or cigarette lighter) for clock and preset station memory.
The blue/white is only for when you have additional amp/amps.
It is only hot when the stereo is turned on, to switch the amps on.
MUCH APPRECIATED!
 
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scenic760

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I am using a harness for it but I’m not sure where the yellow/orange harness goes?? I can’t find anything in the dash to plug it into??

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scenic760

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Alrighty...got everything hooked up and I'm impressed with the Cerwin Vega HEDs..I have (2) 3.5's in the dash center spot and (2) other in the stock locations with stock location 4x10s hit pretty good! I did supplement the rear speakers with some MB Quart 6.5" pods that I am going to attach in the back by the A/C but the CVs sound fuller..thanks to everyone for the input and guidance!
 

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DDropkick_pride

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Alrighty...got everything hooked up and I'm impressed with the Cerwin Vega HEDs..I have (2) 3.5's in the dash center spot and (2) other in the stock locations with stock location 4x10s hit pretty good! I did supplement the rear speakers with some MB Quart 6.5" pods that I am going to attach in the back by the A/C but the CVs sound fuller..thanks to everyone for the input and guidance!
very nice job with the radio adapter plate/cover
 

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Alrighty...got everything hooked up and I'm impressed with the Cerwin Vega HEDs..I have (2) 3.5's in the dash center spot and (2) other in the stock locations with stock location 4x10s hit pretty good! I did supplement the rear speakers with some MB Quart 6.5" pods that I am going to attach in the back by the A/C but the CVs sound fuller..thanks to everyone for the input and guidance!
Wow! Great work! I like the big screen install! Wanted to do that on the 86 but for as little as it gets driven, couldn’t cough up the $ for it to collect dust 300 days a year. Wondered how it would look and after seeing yours would totally do that in the future.
One thing, on your center dash speakers, make sure they don’t protrude too far for the dash pad to fit properly.
Mine and others aftermarket 3.5” dash corner speakers needed to be mounted under the dash frame and mine still force the dash pad up slightly.
I did not like installing the new dash pad. I would really have not liked having to remove it again immediately!
 

Burkee1483

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Came across this kicker setup for the dash. Was curious if anyone has used em and has some feedback on how they are?!
 

Grit dog

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Came across this kicker setup for the dash. Was curious if anyone has used em and has some feedback on how they are?!
What are they rated for? I like the individual 3.5kickers in the dash (with an amp). Iirc they’re 55-60W rms. They’re loud and clear but horrible bass response (as imagined). I have a lot of the low frequencies tuned out. They’re more like a glorified tweeter with some midrange and the 4x10s and the sub do the low end work.
 

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