Slip yoke leak

[Drswiger]

Center of the slip yoke leaking
Is there a problem using RTV in the center ? Or a better way?

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[Mofarmer]

Anxious to hear some responses my 86 c10 is doing the same thing!

 

[yevgenievich]

There Is a seal inside tail housing on output shaft. Or replace with a yoke that is missing one spline and non vented to outside

 

[PrairieDrifter]

You can rtv it, won't last long I'm sure. I just sucked it up and bought a new yoke.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Also have you ever done u-joints?

 

[Drswiger]

Sounds like the RTV is temporary. I think I am going to try some JB weld and see how long it lasts. If it doesn’t work I will look for a yoke that doesn’t have the vent if I can. I have a press so I can replace the unjointed while I’m there. Just a PITA

 

[Drswiger]

by the way, does anyone have a part number for a non vented yoke for 87 R10?

 

[C10MixMaster]

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there's an oring inside the end of the tube that's where the leak is. Easy fix , probably easer that trying to JB weld it.

 

[Drswiger]

Where exactly? What tube?

 

[Drswiger]

Found it. Now have to fix it. Thanks for the info

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[Rusty Nail]

Don't JB Weld it dude...


That would be bad.


Definitely not good?

 

[Dave M]

^ It would definetley be bad ! Here is an example of BAD

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[Joshua Keith]

Don't JB Weld it dude...


That would be bad.


Definitely not good?

Uh oh lol What would be the difference in jb welding the weep hole vs getting a shaft without one?

 

[Rusty Nail]

If you plug the weep hole, that doesn't fix the leak.. It will continue to leak internally, no? Then what happens?

Reckon it was there for a reason.
You don't wonder why?

 

[Bextreme04]

If you JB weld it, you are effectively sealing the space there. Which means that every time the shaft tries to slide out it will create a vacuum and every time the shaft tries to slide in, it will generate pressure inside that cavity. The BEST outcome of that is that it blows the JB weld right out the end and you get your leak coming back. The worst case is that the shaft doesn't want to slide and it pushes in on the output shaft of the trans and in on the pinion of the rear diff. That's going to be extra thrust load and premature wear on U-joints and thrust washers in both the transmission and rear end. Its just as much work(or actually probably less) to just pull the rear driveline, take the 4 bolts off for the rear trans housing, replace the output seal on the rear housing(because you are already there) and pop a new o-ring in the output shaft. It's probably a 1 hour job... tops. Then you will be right back to new, non-leaking, operation for about $20 and 1 hour of your time.