Running temps...

[8T6K5]

Been keeping a closer eye on my temp gauge after noticing that it wasnt working. Found a loose connection and its all good now.

My running temp is right at 210*....needle at 12 O'clock on mine (mech fan). Seems a bit high. Keep in mind its only March here, in 3 months temps will be a constant 90* plus..., so I expect to run warmer in the summer. I cant say I remember what it was reading last summer.

Is this an acceptable temp and what are you guys runing...on average?

Im thinking those Windstar fans will be going in sooner than I planned......

 

[Driver4r]

Mine isnt even past the first mark on the guage.
theres no temps on it, but its between 0 and the first line.

3core radiator(BRAND NEW, explained in my build) and i think a 180 thermastat, heat only.

But its also only been in the 50's here.

 

[8T6K5]

Mine isnt even past the first mark on the guage.
theres no temps on it, but its between 0 and the first line.

...and I doubt the oe gauge is very accurate either. On my gauge the first mark is 100*, falls just below that when off.

 

[Beatdown Z]

I'd find a way to double check the temp before jumping to any conclusions.

But, let's say it's definitely running at 210*.

Do you have the stock thermostat in it?

Stock fan and fan clutch?

Stock fan shroud?

Original water pump?

 

[8T6K5]

I'd find a way to double check the temp before jumping to any conclusions.
But, let's say it's definitely running at 210*.
Do you have the stock thermostat in it?
Stock fan and fan clutch?
Stock fan shroud?
Original water pump?

New T'stat
Stock fan-clutch
Stock shroud
Orig w-pump

 

[bucket]

The gauge might just be inaccurate. The 454 Burb I just traded off always runs about 1/2 , the '77 K5 was always about the same, the other trucks run a tick above the 1/4 mark. The crew cab has an aftermarket gauge that reads about 180, but between 190-200 when hot out and on the freeway.

 

[skysurfer]

Yeah, I wouldn't get too excited until you confirm the actual temp. Most candy thermometers read to 220* and are cheap to buy, or HF has the infrareds on sale right now for $26.

What brand of thermostat did you put in? If it was a china no-name I'd look into something like Stewart/Robert Shaw.

http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Me...een=PROD&Product_Code=302&Category_Code=therm

They also have high flow water pumps if the efan installation doesn't help.

http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=ChevyHiFlWP

 

[8T6K5]

Not too worried about it now, thinking more into July-August out here. Should have those fans in by then, maybe add/replace water temp gauge.

 

[smurph20]

Ive got a 180 in mine and its runnin around the quarter mark. Mines got the orginal w/p and the extreme duty fan clutch and facotry fan and shroud

 

[towjoe]

I have one of those laser heat gun themometers. one of the best tools a guy could have in toolbox. The burb I just got from Bucket read 210 at operating temp, but the thermometer says 190. same with my wrecker it says 220 on gauge but reads 195. also a handy tool to check for a miss, thermostat , plugged radiator, and trans tempeture

 

[89Suburban]

My 89 stayed near the mark at 10 o'clock, the 90 runs closer to 210.

 

[deanobigred]

I just put a new sender in my 327 gauge goes to 250,255 then comes down to 240 or so, I will bring home my ir gun and check but could this be a heavy duty thermostat it looks new I know that means nothing just wanted to know if its possible because it does open , I have felt the hose when it did

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

What was the temp gauge doing with the old sending unit? I think the best course of action is to wait and see what the thermometer says. It could be an issue with the sending unit not being the correct one, a wiring problem between the gauge and the sender, a malfunctioning gauge, or you could have an issue with the cooling system, which there are plenty of those to choose from. 255*F is quite hot, though, so I would think you'd know if there was a problem of that magnitude just using sensory perception. My money's on the sending unit being bad or incorrect, but if it's running that hot, we can walk you through the steps of simplest to most complex in terms of cooling system repairs. Also, when you point the thermometer, make sure you point at the side of the cylinder head where the sender is so you can accurately see what it's supposed to see.

 

[chengny]

I just put a new sender in my 327 gauge goes to 250,255 then comes down to 240 or so, I will bring home my ir gun and check but could this be a heavy duty thermostat it looks new I know that means nothing just wanted to know if its possible because it does open , I have felt the hose when it did

Since we seem to be on the subject of gauge calibration/sender accuracy tonight, you might find this useful. It was written by someone who apparently has too much time on his hands:

Two down. Now comes the calibration of the coolant temperature indicator - that procedure is more involved, but it's still not that hard:

Because the temperature indicator has a "dead zone" on the low end (where the coolant temp is below the measurable range) it can't be calibrated like the oil pressure indicator.

When the engine is not running, the oil pressure is known to be 0 psi. So, with that in mind, the indicator's needle can be set to the 0 psi mark and it will be safe to assume sufficient accuracy throughout the entire readable range (provided the indicator has not been altered).

But with the coolant temperature indicator this method doesn't work well. You can't simply supply power to the indicator, and then set the ray to some point on the scale - one that approximates the ambient temperature in your garage. Doing this will almost certainly result in an inaccurately calibrated coolant temp indicator.

Here are a couple of ways to get it accurately calibrated. Both require that the coolant temperature sender be pulled from the engine but remain connected to the sensing leg lead - that makes the procedures a bit cumbersome. It is best to calibrate an indicator as close to the midpoint of it's range as possible. So you will be heating the sender to 210 degrees F:

1. You can use a heat lamp, a coffee can and a good quality oven thermometer. Put the sender (with it's associated lead attached) into the coffee can. Cover it with some kind of insulation and insert the probe of the oven thermometer through the insulation. Do this in such a way that the tip of the probe is either touching or very close to the sender's tip. The dial of the thermometer should be outside the area covered by the insulation - this is so the temperature can be read without removing the insulation.
Set up a heat lamp or a contractor's flood light so that it is under the bottom of the coffee can - turn the lamp on and wait.

When the oven thermometer reads around 210 F, go ahead and set the needle to the same temp mark on the indicator. All done the calibration. Break down the calibration apparatus, screw the sender back into the cylinder head and reconnect the lead.

2. The second method relies on this fact; No matter how much heat you apply to a open container of water, once it hits 212 F and starts boiling, it will never exceed that temperature. This way is more of a pain, but the good thing about it is that you don't need an oven thermometer. Boiling water at atmospheric pressure is always 212 F - period.

Just set the sender (with the lead attached) in a container of water- a coffee can works well for this method too. Only the tip of the sender needs to be submerged.

Use a propane torch, a hot plate, a heat gun (or whatever you have on hand that can provide sufficient heat), bring the water to a full boil. The tip of the sender will at that point be at 212 degrees F.

Go ahead and set your needle to the 210 F mark on the indicator (key in RUN position).

All done. Break down and reassemble.



In case you are concerned about how accurate the sender's response is, use the chart below to check the resistance across it at various temps. Just connect one of your VOM leads to the normal terminal and the other to the part of the tip that is in the coolant stream.


Temperature/resistance chart for air and coolant senders:

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