Rebuildable

[hootsmcgoots]

I helped out my father-in-law haul off some old cars and junk around his brother's house, who passed away a few months ago, and they gave me this small block in return. It's def a 350, casting number 3970010. Problem is, i found during disassembly that one of the pushrods pierced a rocker arm and left one of the intake valves open, thus leaving number 4 exposed to the environment. My question is, judging by the pics, is this rebuildable? Everything looks OK, with the exception of the rust in number 4. I'm trying to make it a budget rebuild. I gots kids and a wife in nursing school. $ is spread thin.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[GOBR]

Take it apart and clean it up real good. Hone the cylinders or get the block bored and your good to go.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Yes it looks very rebuildable, the piston luckily was on top dead center so there wasn't water sitting in the whole jug. The micrometer will tell the tale though. Snap gauge the jugs for out-of-round/out-of-taper, and check the crank with a caliper micrometer to be sure.

 

[hootsmcgoots]

I micro'ed the cups and all were at 4.006-7. There wasn't mu h of a ridge at the top as it measured @ 4.003. I'll have to find my dad's hone and see what happens. I poured ATF in the cylinder.derived and I'll try and pull it out in a day or two to really see what the damage is.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using Tapatalk 2

 

[83K5guy]

I would say so, like mentioned above dissassemble and hone it then check the cylinders with some ID to get some readings and you should be able to tell if it's stock you can always bore it I needed but I have seen people run alot worse.

 

[crazy4offroad]

When you mic it for out-of-round check cross ways (parallel & perpendicular to the crank) at 3 positions in the jug...

If your "1's" and "2's" vary by more than 0.004" it is borderline time to be bored.

Using the same chart for out-of-taper, if your A's B's and C's vary by more than 0.004" it is borderline time to bore. You also have to keep in mind the wear on the pistons, when you measure them for the same specs and add that to the specs of the jugs you can see how a fresh build can end up with piston slap by the 10k mile mark.

Telescopic gauges, i.e. snap gauges aren't very expensive but it's even better if you can borrow a set lol...

I take a notepad and keep track of all the measurements, dedicate a whole page to the measurement of each cylinder so things dont get mixed up. Hope you dont think I doubt your abilities, I like to put stuff like this out there for everyone. Good luck and post back your progress!

 

[hootsmcgoots]

Thanks, that's some very useful info. I took the measurements using a micrometer made for mearuring inner diameters (not sure what its called), similar to one that's used on od's like rod and main journals. Aside from one being out of round and taper wear, what is the maximum amount of wear before I would have to bore?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using Tapatalk 2

 

[HotRodPC]

I've rebuilt much worse for a patch job, with hone, rings and bearings and it ran a good long time with no issues.

 

[GOBR]

Wonder why it was sittin or why it was pulled.

 

[hootsmcgoots]

Would guess it was because the pushrod broke through the rocker arm.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using Tapatalk 2

 

[GOBR]

Yeah I forgot about readin that part. That wouldnt usually warrant pullin the whole engine tho. Oh well whatever the reason you got a good one out of the deal!

 

[hootsmcgoots]

Fo sho!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I847 using Tapatalk 2

 

[HotRodPC]

Yeah I forgot about readin that part. That wouldnt usually warrant pullin the whole engine tho. Oh well whatever the reason you got a good one out of the deal!

Because some people don't how to diagnose a motor, or assumed it was bad, got a new motor and then found the issue later.

 

[chengny]

I took the measurements using a micrometer made for mearuring inner diameters (not sure what its called), similar to one that's used on od's like rod and main journals.

Inside micrometer:

You must be registered for see images attach

Or maybe a vernier caliper:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[hootsmcgoots]

I took the measurements using a micrometer made for mearuring inner diameters (not sure what its called), similar to one that's used on od's like rod and main journals.

Inside micrometer:

You must be registered for see images attach

Or maybe a vernier caliper:

You must be registered for see images attach

It was an inside micrometer. Veneer calipers are OK, but not as accurate as micrometers IMO.