Re-arch or new front leafs

[Christophervan]

My 77 K20 has the two leaf front springs, sagging about 3/4 inch on the drivers side.
Wondering: best to get new or rearch?
And if new is best, wondering if I should go with the Dayton 3 leaf vs the 2.
The rears are 52" 6+1, those will be the nex project as the drivers side is about 1 inch lower. Looking into my options there too.

The guy at the local spring shop seems to advise a re arch, he supplies Daytons, and also recommended staying with the 2 leaf as I am not looking at hauling a bunch of weight often.
But: I only want to do this once and want to do it correct.

Any input is much appreciated...

ps: I plan on keeping this truck, giving it to my grandson in about 12 years

 

[1low4x4]

Always re arch. That way you keep your factory USA steel. Most of the newer leafs are crappy steel.

 

[Christophervan]

Thanks, makes sense, the springs are in the shop. I'll post my impression of the results later in the week!

 

[Christophervan]

Re-arched, all 4, sits level and rides much better

 

[Boonie]

When you had them rearched, how do they sit now? Mine have a negative arch right now, was wondering how much that would be corrected by rearching. Thanks

 

[yevgenievich]

From my undrrstanding, negative arch is correct

 

[Boonie]

I think it is. But I think these may have more negative arch than they should, as they have 41 years of hard farm use on them. Would like to get them back to stock, maybe just a wee bit higher than stock. not much though

 

[crazy4offroad]

I'm going to order a set of springs from this place, more than likely the 3-leaf packs since mine only has 2 in each pack and sits only an inch or so off the bump stops, and if the rear needs releveled then so be it.
http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Chevrolet_GMC_Truck_1500_1973_1987_s/1823.htm
Spring steel loses its temper so I'm not sure re-arching is a long-term fix, especially if they don't re-temper them when re-arching.

 

[Greybeard]

I'm going to order a set of springs from this place, more than likely the 3-leaf packs since mine only has 2 in each pack and sits only an inch or so off the bump stops, and if the rear needs releveled then so be it.
http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Chevrolet_GMC_Truck_1500_1973_1987_s/1823.htm
Spring steel loses its temper so I'm not sure re-arching is a long-term fix, especially if they don't re-temper them when re-arching.

I just did a bit of looking into this. Spring steel does not lose it's temper any more than any tempered steel does, but it does lose it's memory just like anyone that gets old. Spring steel will always be spring steel unless the molecular structure is altered with heat.

I have always questioned the idea that GM products came with negative arched front leaves. That seems counter productive from a ride standpoint. Flat is the way I remember the new trucks, not negative.

It seems there are a couple of ways to re-arch springs, cold bending and hot bending (hot reshaping). One article says cold bending is a temporary fix. That the likelihood is that the spring will return to it's poor sagging state in about a year or so. Hot bending is more permanent. It says that re-tempering needs be performed on re-arched springs in order for them to retain the set. It has to be annealed first to take the temper out, bend them into position, and re-heat them to harden and then re-temper them to make them spring steel again.

Personally, I believe the springs made today are made of quality steel. I would rather buy a new spring than spend nearly a new spring price on old steel re-arching.

BTW crazy4offroad- how do you like the 6" Front Superlift Springs/Rear ORD Shackle Flip on the SWB '77?

 

[crazy4offroad]

BTW crazy4offroad- how do you like the 6" Front Superlift Springs/Rear ORD Shackle Flip on the SWB '77?

They ride very well. The fronts have a lot of flex with mild rebound on hit. The rears are 56" springs which put the shackle flip at a small angle instead of vertical which helps soften the hit. I've twisted this setup to the point of tire lift if you can imagine and haven't had any unwanted contact, bind or splay with the springs. The passenger side front is starting to go down a little, I'm getting more contact with the tire and fender but I had intended on putting 35s on and selling the 38s.

 

[Greybeard]

They ride very well. The fronts have a lot of flex with mild rebound on hit. The rears are 56" springs which put the shackle flip at a small angle instead of vertical which helps soften the hit. I've twisted this setup to the point of tire lift if you can imagine and haven't had any unwanted contact, bind or splay with the springs. The passenger side front is starting to go down a little, I'm getting more contact with the tire and fender but I had intended on putting 35s on and selling the 38s.

Good to know. Yes, I can imagine twisting the truck up to the max. I would prefer doing that in a SWB over a LWB, because the shortness puts less stress on the frame rails. I had my old SWB touch box to cab on a few outings. Never did address that problem for the six years I owned that truck except to put new cab and box mounts on it, didn't help much though, they still touched every now and again.

Sadly, I have not had any real fun off road in many, many years now. I have my 75 SWB outside with a 'new' eight year old hipo custom built engine in it but have not had time to complete it. I never even started it this last summer I was so busy. I will make that time issue change this coming year somehow. It needs a suspension including one new rear shackle hanger so I was seriously considering a flip since I have to remove the old one anyway. But that is just the tip of the iceberg. The two wheel drive cab is toast (A-pillars are rotten, under windshield is rotten, etc.), the frame itself might be beyond repair under the bad shackle in the rear and the tires are dry rotted. It will be expensive to fix this truck, so I was thinking it might be easier (and cheaper) to buy a truck from a salt free area of the country. But even then they appear to be getting scarce, at least the affordable ones. If I have to pay four grand for one, I'll take mine to a semi shop and have them fix the frame. I'm not a good enough welder to try it myself.