Painting inside of cab

[Skippy969]

I have an 85 gmc with saddle tan interior. I want to go to 84-87 blazer gray, but I need to paint the whole inside of the cab. Would 2 stage spray paint work and have a nice look or should it be done by a professional?

 

[waterpirate]

What is the trim level inside the truck going to be? The reason I ask is that if you do the interior over with new trim parts, there is not a lot of paint visible. My opinion is that a base coat clear coat paint is more fore giving than you think. Buy a mid level gun, start with the floor and behind the seat. When you got it down pat, move on to the more visible places. A good paint job is 80% preperation and 20% application.
Hope this helps
Eric

 

[Skippy969]

Sorry, I just saw this reply.

The original is high sierra. No headliner, no pillar molding, vinyl floor. I'm going to put a headliner and all the pillar molding back in. The only thing that scares me about spray gun painting is fisheye and hazing. The last time I painted a car was 30 years ago. Have paint formulas changed to make it easier? I want to go with a metallic factory bright blue. Should I order from automotive touch up or paint scratch.com (somewhere like that) or do I need a better quality from somewhere else?

 

[Skippy969]

What is the trim level inside the truck going to be? The reason I ask is that if you do the interior over with new trim parts, there is not a lot of paint visible. My opinion is that a base coat clear coat paint is more fore giving than you think. Buy a mid level gun, start with the floor and behind the seat. When you got it down pat, move on to the more visible places. A good paint job is 80% preperation and 20% application.
Hope this helps
Eric

sorry. See above comment. I don't know ow how to work the quote stuff.

 

[Grit dog]

If you’re re-painting the inside of the cab, is the truck exterior already done?
Because it’s kinda backwards to go thru all the disassembly to properly repaint the cab and then do a bunch of it again later to paint the truck.
Similarly it would be a gross waste of time to use rattle can paint to produce in inferior product. But if you plan on installing all optional trim, what is your end goal. A truck that is repainted professionally or something that looks ok as long as you don’t look too hard or too long?

You stand a good chance of dealing with some rust and or additional prep around the windows. Which if present you’re dealing with inside and outside surfaces. I’d not want to remove all the glass, dash and everything just to do it again later.

Painting overhead is a little more tricky than flat or vertical. But if you’re burying everything under trim pieces then it probably don’t matter how nice it looks. But if you want something presentable you sure don’t want to have to sand and polish the underside of the cab roof. So get the technique figured out first.
Paint quality? I’d not ever use cheap rattle can/touch up quality paint on anything I wanted to last and look good. But there are so many good options, you can get decent 2k urethane enamel for a decent price.
Fish eye and hazing is largely due to the method and mix and not the paint material IMO.
I’m a total amateur as well so take what I say fwiw.
But imo the biggest frustration with autobody for a shade tree guy is rework and not having a plan (causing more work and rework).

 

[Skippy969]

If you’re re-painting the inside of the cab, is the truck exterior already done?
Because it’s kinda backwards to go thru all the disassembly to properly repaint the cab and then do a bunch of it again later to paint the truck.
Similarly it would be a gross waste of time to use rattle can paint to produce in inferior product. But if you plan on installing all optional trim, what is your end goal. A truck that is repainted professionally or something that looks ok as long as you don’t look too hard or too long?

You stand a good chance of dealing with some rust and or additional prep around the windows. Which if present you’re dealing with inside and outside surfaces. I’d not want to remove all the glass, dash and everything just to do it again later.

Painting overhead is a little more tricky than flat or vertical. But if you’re burying everything under trim pieces then it probably don’t matter how nice it looks. But if you want something presentable you sure don’t want to have to sand and polish the underside of the cab roof. So get the technique figured out first.
Paint quality? I’d not ever use cheap rattle can/touch up quality paint on anything I wanted to last and look good. But there are so many good options, you can get decent 2k urethane enamel for a decent price.
Fish eye and hazing is largely due to the method and mix and not the paint material IMO.
I’m a total amateur as well so take what I say fwiw.
But imo the biggest frustration with autobody for a shade tree guy is rework and not having a plan (causing more work and rework).

The exterior is not painted. My plan was to do interior, motor then exterior. I'm not looking for a show truck, just something that looks good and I can be proud of doing it myself with a moderate budget. (It's my gpas old truck and he gave it to me years ago) I'm 43 and finally started working on it. There is not much rust at all, just some surface rust on the bed and the cab corners. I was going to paint the inside myself, the when I got to the outside, I was going to have someone do it. I don't have a paint booth to properly paint the body.

 

[Grit dog]

The exterior is not painted. My plan was to do interior, motor then exterior. I'm not looking for a show truck, just something that looks good and I can be proud of doing it myself with a moderate budget. (It's my gpas old truck and he gave it to me years ago) I'm 43 and finally started working on it. There is not much rust at all, just some surface rust on the bed and the cab corners. I was going to paint the inside myself, the when I got to the outside, I was going to have someone do it. I don't have a paint booth to properly paint the body.

Fair enough. So what I said applies even moreso if you plan on a complete redo.
How good it looks in the end is largely based on how hard you work at it, and how you approach it.
By the time you buy the stuff to paint the cab, engine bay, behind cab, front of bed, inside of bed etc, and actually do the work, you should be able to paint satisfactorily. And an ugly, yet proper paint job is only some sandpaper and polishing away from being beautiful.
Don’t need a booth, hell there are nice driveway jobs out there. If you actually have a shelter and can control the amount of bugs if summer time, you’re fine.
There is ALOT of “practice” square footage on a pickup truck that will waste no paint and not be seen. If you’re gonna do this I’d suggest doing all the “practice” areas mentioned above, first.

<Blue truck over there was not painted in a booth.

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And everything I could spray outside I did.

 

[Scott91370]

Booths are nice but I have seen several that were painted in the driveway that have won 1st place in their show division. Same guy did 4 or 5 of them and they are (were, this was 30 years ago) amazing. I personally wouldn't tackle a paint job...it's right up there with an automatic transmission!

 

[Bennyt]

I've seen some paint shops that do seminars for free or minimal charge. One near me did 4-6 different ones, prep, base, clear, polish, etc. I believe that the hope is that you purchase products from them in the future. I believe you could even pay to rent the booth.