Opinions on cracked frame

[Slinky]

Hi, first post here and was wondering if I could get some opinions on a crack in my frame.
I just picked up a 78' K-10 short bed for $800.
While crawling around checking things out I noticed a crack in the frame around the shock mount on the passinger side frame rail. Looks like someone did some questionable work to remount the shock You can see a crack along the top of the frame.
My question is can this be repaired or reinforced?? What's your thoughts??

Thanks for looking.
This looks like a great forum and I look forward to hanging around.

 

[chengny]

You'll have to do a dye penetrant check to determine where the fracture terminates on the inner end.

When the extent of the fracture has been established the end will need to be "stop drilled" (crack arrested). This procedure is simply a matter of drilling a small hole (1/8" - 1/4" diameter) just past the termination of the crack. The resulting hole should actually just barely touch the end of the crack. This is common engineering practice and is effective at eliminating propogation of the crack. In emergency situations, where no welding equipment is available, it is the only (temporary) repair option.

After the crack has been drill stopped, the entire crack has to be veed out with a grinder. Both sides should be double chamfered to form the vee.

The groove should be deep enough so that when the crack is welded, the root passes on both sides touch each other. The roots will probably be the only passes given the thickness (thiness?) of the steel used.

I think 3/32" 7018 rod is sufficient and no pre-heating or annealing is required.

So basically drill a hole at the end of the crack, turn your grinder sideways and cut a vee in each side. Clean up and then run a single pass in both vee's.

Don't let anyone try to tell you that a doubler is required. The repair procedure described above is the correct one.

I was winging it when I wrote the above but here is the US military's written procedure for cracked frame repair on CUCV's:

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[Slinky]

Thank you very much for the detailed info.

I researched this problem a little further and it sounds like a fairly common place for the frame to crack on these old Chevys.
I'll have to take it to a welding shop as I don't have a welder or know how to use one.
Mainly, I just wanted to know that it was repairable.
I'm very excited about starting this project and didn't want to dig in if the frame was toast.

 

[Old77]

Definitely repairable! get her fixed and keep on truckin!

 

[Slinky]

Definitely repairable! get her fixed and keep on truckin!

Thanks for the reassurance. I was seriously bummed when I first found that crack. I thought the frame might be toast.

 

[Old77]

Thanks for the reassurance. I was seriously bummed when I first found that crack. I thought the frame might be toast.

I hear ya and most jump to that conclusion and get rid of the truck before thinking it through and asking questions first so I'm glad you inquired My brother's neighbor recently sold a K-10 to a guy not knowing that it had a cracked from in the same spot (only had it for a month) and the new owner called him about it. The new owner was a young kid and this cracked frame scared him so he immediately threw it back in CL again. I just hope that it sells to a buyer who can fix it rather than seeing another square go to the crusher

 

[Slinky]

That's crazy. I definitely didn't want to give up on it that easy.

 

[Slinky]

So, does anyone have a ballpark estimate on what a shop would charge for a good repair on this? I know it will very but I have no clue what would be a good price when I start calling around.
Thanks guys for your advice so far.

 

[crazy4offroad]

I would guess $150-$200 if they deem the gas tank must be removed.

 

[chengny]

Do the prep work yourself as described above (drill stop the crack, vee it out and clean the general area with brake cleaner and a wire brush).

Take it to a custom exhaust place. They are all set up to do on-vehicle welds.

Show them the scope of the work and be sure they understand that you are doing the work yourself. Guys that work in shops appreciate customers that actually get their hands dirty, know what they are talking about - and are trying to save a buck by doing the repair themselves.

To lay in a 6 inch weld (maybe 3 inches long X 2 sides, single pass), all prepped and clean... I would be surprised if they charged you more than $50 (probably more like $20).

 

[Nomad]

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The prior above post explaining, drilling to stop the cracking and veeing the the cracks is spot on! Here are some photos of an '87 V10 that I repaired. It had about the same cracking as yours. When you clean up your frame up you will be surprised how bad the cracking really is. I recommend taking the bed off to do it right. I will try to post some more photos.

 

[Nomad]

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More photos to follow

 

[Nomad]

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If I can locate the finished product photos I will post them also.

 

[rscustomrods]

I had the same problem. I found that the shock mount was loose and that caused the crack. I was also told it was a common problem. I was doing a frame off anyways, so I just grabbed another frame without a crack and built on the good frame.

Good luck. It is definitely repairable.

Rich

 

[Slinky]

So I talked to my neighbor this morning that has a welder and showed him the crack. He said that he could weld it up in like 10 mins or so once it's all cleaned and prepped. So that sounds like it will work out nicely. I have a grinder so that shouldn't be a problem.

And, also got the 203 to shift into 4lo finally by just rolling forward a little and it shifted right away.