Oldsmobile Engine Conversion

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HotRodPC

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One thing about 425's, the Cranks are ALL, every last one of them, are Forged steel. I still have one that is standard grind, but needs turned .010 on the rods cuz I gouged it disassembling a seized motor. I had one one of those very rare 425's that I bought out of pasture that sat in the weather for over 15 years, with a Variable Pitch Th400. Bought both for $25 married together. Took the block to the machine shop for cleaning, he said it was rusted to bad and junk. I did my Electrolysis magic on the block, made it like a new block again, and sold the bare block for $200. Rods were junk when I cut them with a sawsall to get the motor apart. Still have the crank, trans and 1 of the C heads though. Sold the OE 67 425 Carb for $100 too.
 

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HotRodPC

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When I got done with the block and the Electrolysis, then sold it, it looked like this.
 

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Tyger13us

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Don't cut loose of much on that car. That air cleaner alone should bring over $100 on fleabay. Just don't clean it to much. Just dust it off but keep that sticker in tact and it should bring some good money. The glass still being in good shape, the front clip still being in good shape are all positive. Non Ac car kinda hurts a bit but not much these days. I'm sure I can get you in touch with some people that should give you a chunk of change for that car. They may not be able to do much with that one if you say it's in that bad of shape, but at least many good parts to restore someone else's project. I'd rock the hell outta that car myself. I'd keep my 4x4 parts for 1 square body, and sell the rest of them to put that car back together.
LIke you, I don't have mega funds though so it would be nothing more than a wet dream. That car should also have the variable pitch Th400.

Are you wanting to put that 425 in your truck cuz it runs, or cuz you like Olds or what's the deal there? One thing about those 65 425's, they are expensive to build. They have a common lifter bore, but use a rare 45 degree cam bank angle instead of 39 degree. Also use the early bolt pattern for the flywheel. If you got lucky enough to get a 39 degree lifter angle, then you got large uncommon .921 lifter bores and the lifters are expensive. IF you want a common build, go with a 68 or later 455 or try to find a very rare late 67 425 that has the good cam angle and good lifter bore, then all you have to do is use the odd early flywheel pattern.
Point I'm making, with the raritees of the 425, it makes them expensive. I'd say you'd be better off to let that one go with the car to a true Olds guru that will keep it orginal and really appreciate it for what it is. Maybe even make you a good running 455 part of the cash/trade you sell for the car. Or does it have sentimental value that you want to keep it? You have several options though. Just saying, if you want to run BBO, I'm sure you can end up with that in a 455 to the right Olds gure.

the lettering on the air cleaner looks to me to be silk screened on it and not a sticker,, id have to go out and inspect it real close,, but it dont look like a sticker to me.....

yep,, it runs like a striped ass ape,, dont use any oil,, when it was on the road,, a quart every 3-4k miles,, and yes again i need a motor now in the worst way..

ive already put in new ball joints, new rancho shocks,, spankin new tires kelly tsr's brakes,, New radiator,, power steering pump,,pit/idler arm and so much more to list and the 6.2 pulls a diesel on me........

just to do the heads they want 2k plus part to go back together with,, and it was getting tired i know,, but didnt think it would just go without anywarning,, it did......

my family as far back as i can remember on both sides has always had Oldsmobile.. i figure the way i take car of my rides i can get another 100k out of it,, my mom has a 68 toranado 455 and we got 300k out of it before it started using oil,, so it got parked and has sat ever since,, the trans is burnt up do to a hole from a rock in the tranny pan and didnt know it and by the time she did notice it was toast...

the 425 has neve been apart except for like i said a timing chain and gears/water pump @ 75k.......

im thinking of putting the 455 intake i have on it also with the factory q-jet..

that ought a make my ole turd fly,, but mostly for dependability and towing/hauling stuff... its not such a big deal for my stuff to look old and tired,, but frame down its top notch,, paint and body dont make it go,,and never judge a book by its cover....

so far to put this motor in my truck i spent 60 sum buck for the 403 to trans-am steel mounts to chevy truck,, a hei dizzy from skip white for 47.00 and just got done getting the 442 cutless 455 olds dual exhaust manifolds off fleabay for 332.00....

all i need now is a trans filter and gasket and shortin the drive line in the truck to fit.. Sixstates here will do it for me for 25 bucks,, he does all my drive lines.. molly tubing also... and i called him up and he will even do the manifold pipes for me the the dual 2.5 inch thats already in my truck..

poor ole white truck need a heart transplant and i hate seeing it in sickley shape,, ive had the truck for close to 13 years and will never sell it,, someone would just beat it and wreak it........

im sure i would part out the rest of the car though,, or the whole thing,, but it got 4 wheeled over the trunk by my 4x4,, i didnt care the trunk section is trash anyway,, if it were any good at all id have fixed it and i fix alot of junk to be new again..

what do i look for in the trans for a variable pitch,, its original,, it does act like it got a stall speed torq converter in it and it dont leak a drop of fluid ether if ya can beleave that,, the fluid is halfway up the stick when i just checked it,, its still red,, but a lil stinky.......

gotta get before i make a book out of this......
 

HotRodPC

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Yep, the Variable pitck do act like they have a stall in them, cuz they do. Small, but they do. Probably about 2200 stall pitched out, and 1600 pitched in. To tell for sure, the switch on the side of the trans, (driver) for kickdown, instead of 1 prong, for kickdown, it has 2 prongs. 1 for kickdown, 1 for variable pitck.

What transfer case and trans do you have in your truck now? If you have someone there, you can pull that variable pitck 400 apart and put a 4x4 output shaft in it and there you go, marry a Th400 tranfer case too it. Then put the variable pitch aka swich on a toggle switch. Swith on, you'd have 2200 stall, switch off you'd have 1600. You can also hit the swtich while heavy in the pedal. What guys would do to drag race, have the switch on for high stall, one the light turns green, turn it off and about half track your stall will go back to 1600 and gain a bit more in the big end.
 

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Yep, the Variable pitck do act like they have a stall in them, cuz they do. Small, but they do. Probably about 2200 stall pitched out, and 1600 pitched in. To tell for sure, the switch on the side of the trans, (driver) for kickdown, instead of 1 prong, for kickdown, it has 2 prongs. 1 for kickdown, 1 for variable pitck.

What transfer case and trans do you have in your truck now? If you have someone there, you can pull that variable pitck 400 apart and put a 4x4 output shaft in it and there you go, marry a Th400 tranfer case too it. Then put the variable pitch aka swich on a toggle switch. Swith on, you'd have 2200 stall, switch off you'd have 1600. You can also hit the swtich while heavy in the pedal. What guys would do to drag race, have the switch on for high stall, one the light turns green, turn it off and about half track your stall will go back to 1600 and gain a bit more in the big end.

food for thought....

i will have to go out and look to see what kind of wires connect to the trans..

the other thing that came to mind is the 65 olds speedo is driven by the front wheel like a VW,, but from what i know the housing/speedo driven gear holder is the same as a 208 transfer case,, if so,, ive got some of those and a few driven gears,, the one im not sure about is the tooth count on the main shaft drive gear.... thats minor.......

my 82 c10 6.2L is 2 wheel drive with a MY6-np-a833........

i have another th400 in a 86 3/4 ton 2 wheel drive axel type rear end,, it was a diesel,, but it died also and now has a 350 gaser in it,, another project.....not running.....

my 78k10 has a th350,, a trans adapt figure 8 support and a 205 tcase w/3.73s and a lockrite in it,, dana 44 open up front with spicer hubs!! hard to impossible to find any more...

OT

i have been thinking of putting a Raptor stage 2 500hp 700r4 in my 4x4?

but ive read as many post from you as there are and from what i gather? it will blow if i beat it like i do the th350 i built and put in the 4x4.....
 

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Yep, the Variable pitck do act like they have a stall in them, cuz they do. Small, but they do. Probably about 2200 stall pitched out, and 1600 pitched in. To tell for sure, the switch on the side of the trans, (driver) for kickdown, instead of 1 prong, for kickdown, it has 2 prongs. 1 for kickdown, 1 for variable pitck.

.

yea,, its got 2 wires,, one white and one black and they come up and hook to this dohicky... and not the slider type im used to for kick down..

And the lettering on the air cleaner are silk screened like i thought..

and a pic of what truck the motor & trans will be going into...

im beginning to get excited!!! :party36::favorites13::rockit::badger_1::drool::driver:
 
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HotRodPC

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yes, this is your Kickdown and Variable pitch torque converter linkage. It doesn't use the electric mounted switch on the carb or gas pedal like other Th400's do.
attachment.php


And the cable if for Th350, and 700r4 also use a cable. PowerGlide uses a rod to the carb linkage.

So this truck that's getting the Olds 425 and Th400 Variable Pitch isn't the truck that has the MY6 is it? If you're getting rid of your MY6 2wd lemme know first.

Now that Th400 will have the long output shaft, also has all the good stuff. That will have the sprag low drum needed for NOS launches and launching off a trans break, along with the good dogbone intermediate sprag. If you ever get that trans built, be sure to be getting it built by someone you can trust to put all your original good hard parts back in it and swap you with later stuff. Those 2 drums alone, together go for $250 on fleabay. Add more for sprags. The VP front pump, input shaft and stator usually go for good money too so someone can convert to VP on a later trans.
 

HotRodPC

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Oh yeah, and as far as speedo, you're right again, there is like a freeze plug sometimes in the case, or sometimes it's aluminum blocked off too, so it may or may not be able to be converted for standard speedo gears as we know it. But, if not, it will still make a good 4x4 trans case for someone who is running a BPO motor since the Tcase has speedo provisions.

You can run that trans as a 4x4 by just swapping out the tailshaft in the rear of the case. Also, even if running 2wd, you can still put in a Chevy truck output shaft that is short and bolt on just like Chevy trucks have. My intent was use my Olds motors pads from the 80 GMC, then rebuild the VP Th400 using the Chevy truck bolt on output shaft, then get to use all the Chevy truck OEM mounts, crossmembers and driveshaft, not having to modify a thing or do any fab work, and just have it all bolt in just like it came OE that way from the factory. It can be done.

Damn, I again wish you were closer. I'd be all over helping you out on that project. There isn't anything of that project I coudln't rebuild and make fit without fab work.
 

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Oh yeah, and as far as speedo, you're right again, there is like a freeze plug sometimes in the case, or sometimes it's aluminum blocked off too, so it may or may not be able to be converted for standard speedo gears as we know it. But, if not, it will still make a good 4x4 trans case for someone who is running a BPO motor since the Tcase has speedo provisions.

You can run that trans as a 4x4 by just swapping out the tailshaft in the rear of the case. Also, even if running 2wd, you can still put in a Chevy truck output shaft that is short and bolt on just like Chevy trucks have. My intent was use my Olds motors pads from the 80 GMC, then rebuild the VP Th400 using the Chevy truck bolt on output shaft, then get to use all the Chevy truck OEM mounts, crossmembers and driveshaft, not having to modify a thing or do any fab work, and just have it all bolt in just like it came OE that way from the factory. It can be done.

Damn, I again wish you were closer. I'd be all over helping you out on that project. There isn't anything of that project I coudln't rebuild and make fit without fab work.

Thanks ALOT!!!! HRPC for all the info and your help i really appreciate it...

i just came in from looking it over again,, hooked up the battery,, a lil juice to the float bowl,, and fired up like i just **** it off,, no crankin or nothing,, click and varoom,, not a single noise of any kind from the motor,, absolutely no blow by at all,, with the pvc pulled and the oil cap off and zip zero nada nothing,, i took a lil video of it,, its a lil large,, but i dont know if ya alow that sort of thing and my service is really slow to upload......

(If you ever get that trans built, be sure to be getting it built by someone you can trust to put all your original good hard parts back in it and swap you with later stuff.)

yep,, i will rebuild if it ever needs it,, i learned Looooong ago about um takin the good ****,, i trust no one with my motors or trans work but me,, ive done it my whole life........

yea i wish ya lived closer also,, and if? i decide to get rid of the my6,, you get first dibs......dont know what im going to do yet....

first off is to get my 82 back on the road...........

so? what is your opinion about the raptor stage 2 7004r for my 4x4 vs the th350? ya think i will scatter it all over the desert?

i got the money to order it,, but,, im himin and hawing about it,, ya can buy alot of gas for that kind of money..

not sure when im going to do it put the 425/th400 in,, but soon as i get all the parts i ordered and depending in the weather that is,,winter is commin quick here,, usually first snow by oct 16th.... hell,, i may just be out in the snow doing it on the ground out in the open.....

Thanks again... i will take pics of the whole process and share......
 

HotRodPC

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You're saying dirty 4 letter S words and I'm not talking about **** !!! Way to early to be talking that **** around here.

I actually don't give opinions on other 700r4 builds. Reason being, yes they look good on paper with what they SAY they do to them, and I even believe most actually do. Reputation is everything in the trans, so would names like PATC, and Monster Lie? And god only knows, they're charging plenty and should have all the good stuff in them. But, no matter what you put in a 700r4, it's still a 700r4. Some hold up better than others, to many factors play a part in how long they'll last. I know I've heard several people with PATC and Monster transmissions say they didn't last for nothing after spending all the big bucks. I've even heard a guy say his stock build outlasted his Monster. I'd love to be the guy that builds a 700r4 and can give a 1 year unconditonal unlimited mileage warranty.

Are you saying you can build your own transmissions? I'd say give that a whirl first and see how it does. I can give you a list of mods I'd do to it depending on what you're going to use it for. I'd also have to look at the Raptor and see what they're doing to them. If you can get by wo OD, the Th350 is certainly the stronger option, and also about 1/3 the cost too.
 

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You're saying dirty 4 letter S words and I'm not talking about **** !!! Way to early to be talking that **** around here.

I actually don't give opinions on other 700r4 builds. Reason being, yes they look good on paper with what they SAY they do to them, and I even believe most actually do. Reputation is everything in the trans, so would names like PATC, and Monster Lie? And god only knows, they're charging plenty and should have all the good stuff in them. But, no matter what you put in a 700r4, it's still a 700r4. Some hold up better than others, to many factors play a part in how long they'll last. I know I've heard several people with PATC and Monster transmissions say they didn't last for nothing after spending all the big bucks. I've even heard a guy say his stock build outlasted his Monster. I'd love to be the guy that builds a 700r4 and can give a 1 year unconditonal unlimited mileage warranty.

Are you saying you can build your own transmissions? I'd say give that a whirl first and see how it does. I can give you a list of mods I'd do to it depending on what you're going to use it for. I'd also have to look at the Raptor and see what they're doing to them. If you can get by wo OD, the Th350 is certainly the stronger option, and also about 1/3 the cost too.

Im going? s word,,s word,, huh? what s word,, i reread 4 TIMES,,did i piss the dude off?,,, then? OH?!?!?! ok...

hahahahahahahahaha,, SNOW,, hahahahahahahaha

yea it usually does before dear hunt.... its 5297 ft here were i live and uphill anyplace ya go...... Mountains to you flat landers..Up hill to us locals,,, hahahaha...

yes sir,, i can rebuild automatic transmissions,, my first time was a th400 for my 64 chevelle,, back in the mid 70's,, took me a couple times in and back out,, tear it down again to get it right,, but thats how i/yall learn,, and all my own th350's and even a few ford c4/5/6's and 904's and 727's..

im not a pro like you are,,and dont know all the tricks,,and ive read all your stuff on auto trans,,Ive learned a few thing i didnt know,,, but any trans ive rebuilt are still going...unless i broke it beating the snot out of it,, tear it down find what broke and find a way to make it tougher, so it wont do that again......

i know how for gear boxes as well and t-cases,, ive done my fair share of those,, there pretty simple,,,, but never a 700r4,, ive got a couple to play with,, but id rather try on a 2 wheeler first,, much much easyer to r&r if i do something wrong,, than on a 4x4.....

ive thought about the monter in a box and going for it,, looks to have all the good stuff,, but im not to sure about there 5 planets sets,, ive read the factory 4 planets are stronger,, i have the ATSG manual for the 700r4 for years 82-86 and have studied it like 5 times,, but until i get inside of the actual trans its self,, im going huh? i gotta see it not read about it,, im a hands on kinda guy,, the book only help when i get stuck.........

And your right about commenting on other peoples trans builds,, i find its the installer and setup is 99% of the problem,, like not blowing out the cooling lines and then flush um with solvent/gas or diesel,, or "using a used" tq-verter without taping a plug hole in it and flushing it out,,,that will kill a trans at first fire up then its doomed from the start........
 

HotRodPC

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I'm by far NOT a trans pro. I'm self taught also with the help of an old timer, may he RIP now, and reading several books, and being hands on, disecting several and seeing differences in year models etc. Even the simple Th400, if you're not aware of what will interchange and what won't, what parts are in what years etc, you can goof up. Example being, that old 65 you IMO is the best trans to find for the real good stuff as far as the 2 sprag drums. Do it little machine work, sub a torrington bearing for a thrust washer, use a later model center support with a case saver ring that the 65-70 don't have, and the later set of more roller torrington bearings, straight cut plantetaries out of a motor home trans, a hardened input and output shaft, and you've now got yourself a 1000-1200 hp transmission launching off trans brake using a big NOS unit.

The 5 pinion planet is a waste in most cases. That has never been a common issue with 700r4 or 4L60-E breaking. The deal on those 5 pinions is, the 5 Pinion from China, the cheap knock offs ARE FOR SURE weaker than the GM 4 Pinion planets, and also do not have the Lube holes that the GM 5 pinion planet has. If you have a true AC/Delco GM 5 pinion planet, then YES it IS stronger than the OE 4 pinion. Most of what you'll see on Ebay is inferior junk. If Monster is using those from China, then to bad for them, and if I had a big name and reputation like they do, I'd not even consider it. I also have a feeling they also KNOW the 5 pinion isn't necessary, but it sounds good to say it's in there. You want to impress me on a 700r4 build, tell me things like the GM Smartshell upgrade, Sleeved input shaft, Super Hold Billet Servo for 1-2 in place of the Corvette Servo that everyone does, and a Super Hold Billet 3-4 Servo which is part of the cause of the 2nd biggest faliure of the 700r4, burning up 3-4 clutch pack, behind the broken sunshell as #1 failure. Also tell me the 3-4 Clutch pack as the latest Z pak or Alto Commercial Clutch Pack, and tubular steels to keep the heat down, also .500 boost valve, and 10 vane pump, not a 13 vane to impress by thinking more it better when it's not. Also a few other valves bored in he valve body to correct issues. Those are impressive things to me. Don't try to impress with me latest BS on 5 pinion planets and 13 Vane pumps when I know those are not needed. Also don't impress me with all the Kevlar parts. Kevlar parts are stronger for sure, BUT they are for racing, not a daily driver. Kevlar wears out fast but it does hold great. It's no big deal to tear a race trans down every so often and freshen it up, but your daily driver to handle some abuse, you expect to last several years and close to 100,000 miles if you can get it. So yeah, I'm not big on the box, ship to your door transmissions. I think you're paying alot for the name with all the advertising done on the internet and these weekend car guy shows on Speed channel, paying for things like 5 pinion planets that you don't need, and Kevlar that wear out fast, but not getting things that actually matter like input sleeve if over 350ft lb of torque and Billet super hold servos. But that's just my opinion, and you know the drill about A holes....Also on a 700r4, start with a 87 or later core. More updates are done to those and they make for better builds. The 82-86 can be good too with updates and some Retrofits from later models. And I don't recall of those but I know the early models had smaller input shafts so you need to be cautious there and know what Tq converter you're getting too cuz if you get a later larger spline converter, it'll slide right on, but it won't connect with the splines and you won't know it. You can also upgrade that spline shaft too, but then you have to also upgrade the stator. All in all, it's just better to start with a later core, unless of course your have a later core that has a broken bellhousing that someone dropped, then by all means, save those hard parts for an early unit. This is why I don't throw away even broken transmissions and I've been known to buy broken transmissions for $10-$15 since they'd only get $6 or $8 out of it for scrap, but little did they know, I looked at the tag on the trans, and know it has a good wedge sprag drum in it that will sell on eBay for $100-$125 and a rare 8 bolt pump that I needed for another trans. Point is, it does pay to know your **** and study hard.

I damn sure wish I was closer, seems we have a few things in common in the way we learn and tackle things, and you for sure have some cool projects. I do too, just lack of physical help and funds to get any one completed, and that sucks.
 

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450hp/357cid
I'm by far NOT a trans pro. I'm self taught also with the help of an old timer, may he RIP now, and reading several books, and being hands on, disecting several and seeing differences in year models etc. Even the simple Th400, if you're not aware of what will interchange and what won't, what parts are in what years etc, you can goof up. Example being, that old 65 you IMO is the best trans to find for the real good stuff as far as the 2 sprag drums. Do it little machine work, sub a torrington bearing for a thrust washer, use a later model center support with a case saver ring that the 65-70 don't have, and the later set of more roller torrington bearings, straight cut plantetaries out of a motor home trans, a hardened input and output shaft, and you've now got yourself a 1000-1200 hp transmission launching off trans brake using a big NOS unit.

The 5 pinion planet is a waste in most cases. That has never been a common issue with 700r4 or 4L60-E breaking. The deal on those 5 pinions is, the 5 Pinion from China, the cheap knock offs ARE FOR SURE weaker than the GM 4 Pinion planets, and also do not have the Lube holes that the GM 5 pinion planet has. If you have a true AC/Delco GM 5 pinion planet, then YES it IS stronger than the OE 4 pinion. Most of what you'll see on Ebay is inferior junk. If Monster is using those from China, then to bad for them, and if I had a big name and reputation like they do, I'd not even consider it. I also have a feeling they also KNOW the 5 pinion isn't necessary, but it sounds good to say it's in there. You want to impress me on a 700r4 build, tell me things like the GM Smartshell upgrade, Sleeved input shaft, Super Hold Billet Servo for 1-2 in place of the Corvette Servo that everyone does, and a Super Hold Billet 3-4 Servo which is part of the cause of the 2nd biggest faliure of the 700r4, burning up 3-4 clutch pack, behind the broken sunshell as #1 failure. Also tell me the 3-4 Clutch pack as the latest Z pak or Alto Commercial Clutch Pack, and tubular steels to keep the heat down, also .500 boost valve, and 10 vane pump, not a 13 vane to impress by thinking more it better when it's not. Also a few other valves bored in he valve body to correct issues. Those are impressive things to me. Don't try to impress with me latest BS on 5 pinion planets and 13 Vane pumps when I know those are not needed. Also don't impress me with all the Kevlar parts. Kevlar parts are stronger for sure, BUT they are for racing, not a daily driver. Kevlar wears out fast but it does hold great. It's no big deal to tear a race trans down every so often and freshen it up, but your daily driver to handle some abuse, you expect to last several years and close to 100,000 miles if you can get it. So yeah, I'm not big on the box, ship to your door transmissions. I think you're paying alot for the name with all the advertising done on the internet and these weekend car guy shows on Speed channel, paying for things like 5 pinion planets that you don't need, and Kevlar that wear out fast, but not getting things that actually matter like input sleeve if over 350ft lb of torque and Billet super hold servos. But that's just my opinion, and you know the drill about A holes....Also on a 700r4, start with a 87 or later core. More updates are done to those and they make for better builds. The 82-86 can be good too with updates and some Retrofits from later models. And I don't recall of those but I know the early models had smaller input shafts so you need to be cautious there and know what Tq converter you're getting too cuz if you get a later larger spline converter, it'll slide right on, but it won't connect with the splines and you won't know it. You can also upgrade that spline shaft too, but then you have to also upgrade the stator. All in all, it's just better to start with a later core, unless of course your have a later core that has a broken bellhousing that someone dropped, then by all means, save those hard parts for an early unit. This is why I don't throw away even broken transmissions and I've been known to buy broken transmissions for $10-$15 since they'd only get $6 or $8 out of it for scrap, but little did they know, I looked at the tag on the trans, and know it has a good wedge sprag drum in it that will sell on eBay for $100-$125 and a rare 8 bolt pump that I needed for another trans. Point is, it does pay to know your **** and study hard.

I damn sure wish I was closer, seems we have a few things in common in the way we learn and tackle things, and you for sure have some cool projects. I do too, just lack of physical help and funds to get any one completed, and that sucks.

great minds think alike and you think just like i do... i like the way we see eye to eye on most things.... thats cool.......I agree with ya 100% of the above writings...

I cant even pay anyone to help me,, they all get there checks and sit on there ass,,,, and if i did wind up paying some one to help,, id have to do it over again,,,so i figure out a way to do it by my self.....

i havent done as many auto trans as you have,, so im kinda green in that area,,but when it comes to building old school gen1 small blocks,, im pretty good,, and i know how to Super tune um too...and i know some about big blocks,, raced them too.... but im no way up to date,, i cant do heavy line work anymore every day,, the mind is willing,, but the body gives me hell.....

I even know how to build pc's/computers like you do with trans missions,,years,,types what will work what wont,,bsods, driver errors all self taught,, was going to open a busyness,, but everyone is a so called computer tech nowdaze,, so i didnt see any point,, ya cant tell um anything they dont listen and or know everydamn thing and there computers constantly crash or lock up,, ok go have fun,, ya know?

yea,, im getting old bald gray and crippled and definitely low on finds,, thats why when i do something its done right the first time,, even if it cost a few bucks more,,, cheaper than doing it twice and i hate doing stuff twice it should have been done right the first time..if i can rebuild it i will and it will be better than anything ya can buy,,IMO,,LOL...if i have 2 broken ones,, i can make one good one out of it...but **** happens sometimes..

i know where i can get a,, i think its a 4l80e,, positive its and e for almost free,, would it be worth me picking it up for parts?

see? i dont know if 4l80e parts will fit in a 700r4 what ever year...it came out of a motor home,, a big one......
 

HotRodPC

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great minds think alike and you think just like i do... i like the way we see eye to eye on most things.... thats cool.......I agree with ya 100% of the above writings...

I cant even pay anyone to help me,, they all get there checks and sit on there ass,,,, and if i did wind up paying some one to help,, id have to do it over again,,,so i figure out a way to do it by my self.....

i havent done as many auto trans as you have,, so im kinda green in that area,,but when it comes to building old school gen1 small blocks,, im pretty good,, and i know how to Super tune um too...and i know some about big blocks,, raced them too.... but im no way up to date,, i cant do heavy line work anymore every day,, the mind is willing,, but the body gives me hell.....

I even know how to build pc's/computers like you do with trans missions,,years,,types what will work what wont,,bsods, driver errors all self taught,, was going to open a busyness,, but everyone is a so called computer tech nowdaze,, so i didnt see any point,, ya cant tell um anything they dont listen and or know everydamn thing and there computers constantly crash or lock up,, ok go have fun,, ya know?

yea,, im getting old bald gray and crippled and definitely low on finds,, thats why when i do something its done right the first time,, even if it cost a few bucks more,,, cheaper than doing it twice and i hate doing stuff twice it should have been done right the first time..if i can rebuild it i will and it will be better than anything ya can buy,,IMO,,LOL...if i have 2 broken ones,, i can make one good one out of it...but **** happens sometimes..

i know where i can get a,, i think its a 4l80e,, positive its and e for almost free,, would it be worth me picking it up for parts?

see? i dont know if 4l80e parts will fit in a 700r4 what ever year...it came out of a motor home,, a big one......


Oh hell yes. Always grab a 4L80-E. They're hard to find and when you do, they are a fourtune even if they don't work. NONE of those part will interchange with a 700r4, but some of those parts will interchange with a Th400. ou might even consider building and using a 4L80-E over that 700r4 if it's in a 2wd. You could either go full manual valve body with it, or you'd have to buy a stand alone computer for it to work, but it will hold up. Also, chances are, if you can build a Th400, you can build a 4L80-E. 4L80-E actually has a couple parts you'd find in that 65 Th400. GM even went back to some of the good stuff, like that intermediate dog bone sprag. They did improve the snap ring though over the intermediate overun clutch. It's a spiral slinky shape, so it's like using 2 snap rings in 1. I've even used the 4L80-E snap ring on performance Th400 builds.

You're right about computers. No money in that. I've built several and used to build my own all the time until computers got so fast, it just doesn't matter anymore since I'm not a gamer.
 
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