88burbbie
Junior Member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2019
- Posts
- 27
- Reaction score
- 4
- Location
- Usa
- First Name
- [email protected]
- Truck Year
- 1988
- Truck Model
- suburban
- Engine Size
- 350
So I've decided I'm going to do a build thread on this since I've needed help and wasn't sure of a few things and there is alot of things I discovered and did not know I will keep this as up to date as possible .. first off if you are looking for a 465 to swap in behind a small block pay the extra money for one with a bell housing they are not easy to find and a remanufactured on is 150-300$ for the hydro clutch ,there are two types of 4wd 465s one is pre 82 which has a short 10 spline output the other is a 32spline 18 inch output this was changed for durability as the 10 spline requires an adapter shaft and a spacer to put it in with a non native transfer case there is no aftermarket support for the clutch/brake pedal assembly getting a used one online is 200+$ you can choose to find one at a scrap yard but good luck the years that are directly bolt in are 75-88 but hydro was only from 85-87 you you have to put a pin in the pedal for the rod from 75-84, you can use an aftermarket clutch pedal from wilwood for 148$ after shipping, don't let some old timer transmission shop tell you something doesn't exist because they only know some things , if you have 4wd and are using a 208c they came in 27 spline inputs you need to swap this with a 32 tooth if using the long shaft or find a 208f which came behind all th400 military vehicles in the 80s they had 32 spline inputs and will bolt up to the tail house with no issues. Total build cost should be around 600-700$ to get an extremely reliable 4speed in replace of that shotty 700r4.thats all I got for now I will put up pictures and post more the further i get
the best way to start this type of project is from the bottom up for alignment reasons and alway ALWAYS double check parts you order offline the project got postponed for 3 days due to me ordering a gm smallblock lfw101 flywheel when it in fact not for a 350 we merrily went about the exchange and it should arrive tomorrow
this is a 32 spline input shaft for a 208c behind the th400 which you ask a trans shop they will tell you they never put a 208c behind a th400 which you ask any military mechanic in the 80s they will tell you they are full of ****...you can buy this off line for 65$ https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
SKU:331670B
UPC:698231077030
there is the the website for the part
your going to want to disconnect your drive shafts leave the front one on before removing the tcase bolts to the trans this will help counterbalance the t case while it drains , yes it will drain when you unbolt the tcase the shaft bolts are 11mm the t case bolts are 9/16 there are 6 in total you will need a swivel for two on the top side
there are two 15/16 bolts on the side of the tcase that uses a stabilizer rod that bolts to the front of the bellhousing these will require some elbow grease or a torquewrench to remove after you have unbolted the tcase from the transmission
once those two bolts are removed pull the tcase off the shaft the tcase will drop forward and as i said be ready it will drain
this wonderful hunk of 3/8 steel cost about 180$ from AA or you can make your own for 10$ with the same effect now if you dont have the threaded end on your pushrod you can get 3/8 rod and make a longer rod with rounded ends just make sure that when you measure you have the fork pressed to the tail of the bellhousing with the slave uncompressed to ensure you have proper length
the best way to start this type of project is from the bottom up for alignment reasons and alway ALWAYS double check parts you order offline the project got postponed for 3 days due to me ordering a gm smallblock lfw101 flywheel when it in fact not for a 350 we merrily went about the exchange and it should arrive tomorrow
You must be registered for see images attach
this is a 32 spline input shaft for a 208c behind the th400 which you ask a trans shop they will tell you they never put a 208c behind a th400 which you ask any military mechanic in the 80s they will tell you they are full of ****...you can buy this off line for 65$ https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
SKU:331670B
UPC:698231077030
there is the the website for the part
You must be registered for see images attach
your going to want to disconnect your drive shafts leave the front one on before removing the tcase bolts to the trans this will help counterbalance the t case while it drains , yes it will drain when you unbolt the tcase the shaft bolts are 11mm the t case bolts are 9/16 there are 6 in total you will need a swivel for two on the top side
You must be registered for see images attach
there are two 15/16 bolts on the side of the tcase that uses a stabilizer rod that bolts to the front of the bellhousing these will require some elbow grease or a torquewrench to remove after you have unbolted the tcase from the transmission
You must be registered for see images attach
once those two bolts are removed pull the tcase off the shaft the tcase will drop forward and as i said be ready it will drain
You must be registered for see images attach
this wonderful hunk of 3/8 steel cost about 180$ from AA or you can make your own for 10$ with the same effect now if you dont have the threaded end on your pushrod you can get 3/8 rod and make a longer rod with rounded ends just make sure that when you measure you have the fork pressed to the tail of the bellhousing with the slave uncompressed to ensure you have proper length
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