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OFFICIAL 700r4 to sm465 with 208c trans swap

Discussion in 'Transmission & Transfer Case' started by 88burbbie, May 14, 2019.

  1. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    First Name:
    anthony
    Truck Year:
    1988
    Truck Model:
    suburban
    Engine Size:
    350
    So I've decided I'm going to do a build thread on this since I've needed help and wasn't sure of a few things and there is alot of things I discovered and did not know I will keep this as up to date as possible .. first off if you are looking for a 465 to swap in behind a small block pay the extra money for one with a bell housing they are not easy to find and a remanufactured on is 150-300$ for the hydro clutch ,there are two types of 4wd 465s one is pre 82 which has a short 10 spline output the other is a 32spline 18 inch output this was changed for durability as the 10 spline requires an adapter shaft and a spacer to put it in with a non native transfer case there is no aftermarket support for the clutch/brake pedal assembly getting a used one online is 200+$ you can choose to find one at a scrap yard but good luck the years that are directly bolt in are 75-88 but hydro was only from 85-87 you you have to put a pin in the pedal for the rod from 75-84, you can use an aftermarket clutch pedal from wilwood for 148$ after shipping, don't let some old timer transmission shop tell you something doesn't exist because they only know some things , if you have 4wd and are using a 208c they came in 27 spline inputs you need to swap this with a 32 tooth if using the long shaft or find a 208f which came behind all th400 military vehicles in the 80s they had 32 spline inputs and will bolt up to the tail house with no issues. Total build cost should be around 600-700$ to get an extremely reliable 4speed in replace of that shotty 700r4.thats all I got for now I will put up pictures and post more the further i get



    the best way to start this type of project is from the bottom up for alignment reasons and alway ALWAYS double check parts you order offline the project got postponed for 3 days due to me ordering a gm smallblock lfw101 flywheel when it in fact not for a 350 we merrily went about the exchange and it should arrive tomorrow

    IMG_20190511_114256270.jpg
    this is a 32 spline input shaft for a 208c behind the th400 which you ask a trans shop they will tell you they never put a 208c behind a th400 which you ask any military mechanic in the 80s they will tell you they are full of shit...you can buy this off line for 65$ https://www.transmissionpartsdistributors.com
    SKU:331670B
    UPC:698231077030

    there is the the website for the part
    IMG_20190511_132821961.jpg
    your going to want to disconnect your drive shafts leave the front one on before removing the tcase bolts to the trans this will help counterbalance the t case while it drains , yes it will drain when you unbolt the tcase the shaft bolts are 11mm the t case bolts are 9/16 there are 6 in total you will need a swivel for two on the top side
    IMG_20190511_132840134.jpg
    there are two 15/16 bolts on the side of the tcase that uses a stabilizer rod that bolts to the front of the bellhousing these will require some elbow grease or a torquewrench to remove after you have unbolted the tcase from the transmission
    IMG_20190511_133928291.jpg
    once those two bolts are removed pull the tcase off the shaft the tcase will drop forward and as i said be ready it will drain
    IMG_20190509_051019495.jpg

    this wonderful hunk of 3/8 steel cost about 180$ from AA or you can make your own for 10$ with the same effect now if you dont have the threaded end on your pushrod you can get 3/8 rod and make a longer rod with rounded ends just make sure that when you measure you have the fork pressed to the tail of the bellhousing with the slave uncompressed to ensure you have proper length
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
  2. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    anthony
    Truck Year:
    1988
    Truck Model:
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    Engine Size:
    350
    like this
    IMG_20190511_114230658.jpg

    IMG_20190511_140528049.jpg
    now that your 208 is out the bolts for removal are 9/16 or 14mm there are two outside bolts that are different length then the rest they only go back into the outer left and right spot
    make sure you remember them mark them whatever or you will have some issues
    IMG_20190511_140534090.jpg
    these 6 bolts dont touch you do not need to remove them
    IMG_20190511_141436729.jpg
    this c clip on the longer shaft also do not touch or you will have needlebearing nightmares like i did
    t IMG_20190511_142351253.jpg
    these are the case bolts notice the two copper ones they go to the outsides of the case
    also note the magnet it will be covered with debris and sludge its always good form to clean it before returning it to the slot in the bottom of the tcase
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
  3. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    Engine Size:
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    IMG_20190511_141440383.jpg
    this is the c clip you should remove and the only c clip yes you will be a little frustrated getting the chain drive out but with some gentle prying it will come out IMG_20190511_143516124.jpg
    do not do this booboo it took 3 hours to get everything properly back together IMG_20190511_143508620.jpg
    once your shafts and chain is out remove the retainer rod for the engagement brackets NOTICE THERE ARE PLASTIC GUIDES DO NOT LOSE THEM
    they go around the engagement brackets ...its easier to remove these if you shift it into 4 low but once the lower bracket is back in put it back into 2wd IMG_20190511_144127727(1).jpg
    this is your planetary it may seem that the output is stuck but rotate the output while pulling up it will eventually line up and come out
    IMG_20190511_143954332.jpg
    now that its out put your 32 spline shaft in...you will also have to rotate this to get it back into the splines
     
  4. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    IMG_20190511_171500099.jpg
    there she is all put back together i would of taken re-assembly pics but i was so frustrated with needle bearings by that point i forgot
    but pro tip its easier to put the first layer of needle bearings in by spinning the shaft back and forth then you put in a spacer ring then the next layer of bearings then another ring
    it takes some time but its not that bad

    the 208c can be filled with dex3 or atf+4 the difference is the viscosity of the fluid

    also if you use the 32 tooth sm465 you notice the reverse light plug and the 4wd plug on the tcase look the same...its because they are the same part the same mechanism and cost about 32$ for the pigtail connector at a parts store...or just go to the junkyard and clip one for 3$ IMG_20190511_185223125.jpg
    one step closer the 700 is out waiting on the right flywheel now ....to put the sm465 is put the trans support on with the tcase and install as one whole unit
    the 700 mounting bracket is exactly the same for the 465 so you can reuse it as long as its in good condition
     
  5. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    IMG_20190515_175409073.jpg
    the new flywheel came in and it was the right one it only goes in one way there is a dowel pin it slides onto and in many many cases unless the motor was from a manual before you wont have an input bearing the clutch comes with an input bearing and a to bearing if get a full kit for 140$ for a luk hd kit its worth it the input bearing requires some persuasion with a wood dowel and a hammer but it does go in the bolts for the flywheel from what ive read are 35 ftbls ....i went 45 just to be safe IMG_20190515_175849438.jpg
    your plate will be stamped with flywheelside look it over which way it goes so you do not improperly install this and use the guide plug to center it IMG_20190515_175904912.jpg
    once the pressureplate is on and your sure its not going anywhere take two of the bolts for the clutch plate and the clutch put it over the pressure plate and install 1 bolt at the top and one at the bottom you may need to use a socket in your hand to do this
    IMG_20190515_181128_01.jpg
    this will be the end result the clutch bolts are to be torqued to 25 ftlbs 6 bolts in total they are 1x7/16 14mm bolts doorman and some parts stores have them listed as 1x5/8s this is not correct size
     
  6. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    so a my bud bill thats been helping me with this explained to me about shifter play and i just didnt get it im a visual learner and found out later on watching rebuild videos what he was talking about you want to check the T at the end of the shifter for play and to see if the dowl pin is still in tack there should be no play from it side to side and very little from front to back received_365174807446265.jpeg
    as you see i need to drill out the tab and put in a larger new pin this is the reason you would have issues finding reverse or neutral in your sm465
     
  7. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    Engine Size:
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    ok so i didnt get very far at all today got the bellhousing on the truck put the master cylinder in the reserve mounted on the walk and then a big disapointment with the pedals but discovered that NO a 74 c60 clutch pedal assembly will not fit in 85-88 style trucks they require a 85-87 offset assembly which the guy i bought the trans off of was real cool got me a set for 40$ from a buddy of his so i can get this project finished this weekend
     
  8. 88burbbie

    88burbbie Junior Member

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    Engine Size:
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    ok transmission is in and everything is ready for the pedals i will post the rest of the build picks with details and required items later on after its finished i dont have too many pictures as it was a fight to get this transmission at a proper angle and my brothers finger got crushed and sliced open in the jack DO NOT use speed jacks the speedball hit the tire and rolled dropping the jack on his finger that he shouldnt of had there in the first place but what do you do when your only help starts drinking at 5 am
     

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