No crank, no start.

[gogo14910]

‘87 TBI starting fine and dependable. Came out today and turn the key. In the on position, all power is there. I can hear fuel pumps. Go to start position and no noise, no starter click or anything. Where should I check first? I’m thinking an old power or ground to the starter/ battery broke. I’ll replace but is there a fuse I should check first? Thanks!

 

[legopnuematic]

Tilt column?

 

[Ricko1966]

Short the starter solenoid,does it crank then. That 1 move tells a lot quick. I usually use a quarter or a screwdriver,short batt to S. Easy to spot,should be the only two posts with wires on your application. If it cranks,starter,battery,cables and ground are all okay. Then it has to be an ignition switch/rack,or a broken wire. If it doesn't crank, it is the starter it self,the battery,the cables or lost ground.

 

[Chevy 88]

Short the starter solenoid,does it crank then. That 1 move tells a lot quick. I usually use a quarter or a screwdriver,short batt to S. Easy to spot,should be the only two posts with wires on your application. If it cranks,starter,battery,cables and ground are all okay. Then it has to be an ignition switch/rack,or a broken wire. If it doesn't crank, it is the starter it self,the battery,the cables or lost ground.

Yep, hot wire it. That will tell you a lot about what the problem is.

 

[HotRodPC]

I'd for sure make sure battery cables are clean and tight FIRST. Then voltage test the battery. Then if all that is KNOWN GOOD, then start troubleshooting from there.

 

[seabee]

Had same problem on my 87 TBI
Give starter a tap with hammer and see if it will start . Sounds like bad starter.

 

[m4chine]

Tilt column?

Why ask about the tilt column? I don't want to hijack this thread, I'll start a new one but I'm curious? I have my dash semi- apart, exposed steering column, '88 Suburban V10 (square body) was running all morning. My 3 year old wanted to play with the wheel so he was in the driver seat doing whatever. Next thing I know it doesn't start. Definitely feels like the tilt column. I thought it was the neutral safety switch, but reverse lights work, couldn't start it in neutral or park. Can't even proceed to turn past the accessory position in neutral to attempt a start. Battery is solid. Highly doubt the starter.

 

[legopnuematic]

@m4chine tilt columns use a rack like this:

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That pushes and pulls on the rod that pushes and pulls on the ignition switch lower on the column. They like to fail over time, in the case of my 76 and others here are similar, the crack on one side, eventually the truck won’t start. If you tilt the column one way or the other it will move it away from the cracked side and be able to pull in the rod enough and start the truck. In my case I got about few years before total failure, starting with the intermittent no crank, then progressing to having to tilt the column down a little, all the way down, then nothing at all.

Photo from the net of a broken one:

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Non tilt columns don’t use them so tilt vs non tilt points diagnostics one way or the other.

 

[m4chine]

Thank you @legopnuematic. It looks like I'd have to pull the steering wheel to open it up to inspect. Damn. I tried changing the tilt and starting with no luck. I'll start a new thread post when I get home. Thanks for your help!

 

[legopnuematic]

@m4chine you can remove the switch itself from the column (under the dash) and use a small pick or screwdriver to manually operate the switch. You can even get your hand in there to feel if the rod from the rack to switch is moving.

If it operates properly removed from the column, that would suggest the column to be at fault, if no change it’s something electrical.

If you cannot rotate the key, it could be broken parts binding it up, or, and more simply, rotate the wheel to the left or right if it might be tight up on the wheel lock while turning the key. That can bind things up too.

 

[m4chine]

@legopnuematic the rod definitely moves when I turn the ignition while in park.

 

[Ricko1966]

But if it doesn't move far enough because of a cracked ignition rack the truck will not crank. See if you can move the rod further with needle nose pliers while you are turning the key

 

[m4chine]

If all I have to do is put some decent tension and pull the rod towards the steering while while turning the ignition, it seems to move and engage to the point where I can't pull it any more. Might not be the problem?

 

[m4chine]

I forgo creating a new thread.

I don't have a lot of experience with failed starters. I had the ignition key held in the start position while I gave the back of the starter some decent hits with a small sledge. Once it sparked, odd. But ever time after a couple hits and the ignition was was released from the start position, I could consistently hear one click from the starter when the key was released to the off position.

Can I jump the starter to rule out any prior electrical issues?

Or test for 12v while trying the ignition to ensure power? I read 12v to the lead off the batter to the back of the starter obviously.

How about the Ignition Starter Switch? Any way to isolate and test it?

Thoughts?

 

[Ricko1966]

I forgo creating a new thread.

I don't have a lot of experience with failed starters. I had the ignition key held in the start position while I gave the back of the starter some decent hits with a small sledge. Once it sparked, odd. But ever time after a couple hits and the ignition was was released from the start position, I could consistently hear one click from the starter when the key was released to the off position.

Can I jump the starter to rule out any prior electrical issues?

Or test for 12v while trying the ignition to ensure power? I read 12v to the lead off the batter to the back of the starter obviously.

How about the Ignition Starter Switch? Any way to isolate and test it?

Thoughts?

Reread post #2