Need crossover?

[8T6K5]

86' K5, 6" Rancho w/35's.

Pretty much a grocery getter, maybe to/fro work 3X a week at most. Hell @ 10MPG can you blame me, when the K1300S gets 45.

Wanders (for lack of a better word) at highway speeds. As it is, speedo is way off with the 35's, I paced it with a friend and 55=65. I rarely exceed that, unless its an old man with a hat; in a mid 90's Crown Vic in front of me.

Steering box is out of adjustment. Tie rod ends, ect appear to be good.

First thought was to replace steering shaft and box, go from there.

Then I heard about crossover steering. Seems to be geared more towards trail rigs. However I found it interestring that they use a 2WD steering box in their kit (ORD).

Im not spending $1200+ for the kit, box, knuckles, ect. (per ORD online pricing)

So if I do box/shaft should I go 2WD box? I may as well replace tie rods ends, drag links, pitman, ect.

Thoughts?

 

[crazy4offroad]

The wandering could be due to toe-out (instead of -in) or wheels not wide enough for the tires, bulging the tread. I dont think crossover steering is going to help. Check your rag joint at the steering box, check the steering box mounting bolts for loosness, and also check the frame in the area of the steering box for stress cracks. Honestly for what you're doing with the truck crossover steering would be an unnecessary expense.

 

[8T6K5]

Wheels are right size for tire, no bulging. Will check toe I/O

Will double check rag joint, box is secure, been meaning to get that weld on bracket kit for the frame....need to get on that.

May just replace tie rod ends and pitman for piece of mind.

Pretty much figured crossover would be overkill, just wanted someone to validate that thought.

Thx!

 

[HotRodPC]

Are you talking of a sway type of wandering as if it's gradual, or a pull type of wandering as if it gets pulled away from you and you can fight it back? If its the sway type I agree with C4, if its pull type, then I'd say it's lower ball joints and it a 4x4 since you most likley have a 10 bolt front, so it's not king pins like a D60, it could very well be both upper and lower ball joints. In an A frame design, like 2wd, lower ball joints being out of spec or worn cause what's know as a "rut grabber" affect. This allows the tire to grab any rut, line, groove, expansion joint or whatever the case may be on the highway, and the tire will follow it as if it's on a track taking the control away from the driver, then the driver has to fight or correct it to get control back. So if it's a pulling rut grabber, its ball joints.

 

[8T6K5]

......lower ball joints being out of spec or worn cause what's know as a "rut grabber" affect. This allows the tire to grab any rut, line, groove, expansion joint or whatever the case may be on the highway, and the tire will follow it as if it's on a track taking the control away from the driver, then the driver has to fight or correct it to get control back. So if it's a pulling rut grabber, its ball joints.

Closer. Its seems rather loose at times, however enverything appears to be in good shape. It wouldnt necessarily say I fight it, but I do spend more time working the steering wheel.

Just didnt have this problem with my 2500HD and 37's Of course the lift was bullet proof and an entirely different vehicle.

Is there a source for some nice aftermarket ball joints, otherwise Ill look for some Moog.

 

[HotRodPC]

Moog is the best money can buy IMO. Buy them at O Reily's and I think you get Limited Lifetime Waranty on Moog parts. Buy them at Advance Auto and you get Moog's 1 year warranty against workmanship. That could have changed and both are Lifetime now. But, if it's rather loose at times, but everything APPEARS to be in good shape, that's another sign your ball joints are worn. They will APPEAR fine but they are not. To test for movement. jack up the wheel about an inch to inch and half off the ground, and put a pry bar or 4 ft floor jack handle is what I use, and lift the wheel up and down, in and out and watch the ball joint area. If you're getting more than a 1/16 inch of play, they need replaced. You might even just have a combination of worn parts too.
You could do this too. Take it to a local tire store or auto center chain like GoodYear, Firestone, Discount tire, whatever and tell them you want an alignment. They'll call you up and tell you, We can't align this because it needs...... Then go pick it up and replace the parts yourself.

 

[LowOnGas]

This allows the tire to grab any rut, line, groove, expansion joint or whatever the case may be on the highway, and the tire will follow it as if it's on a track taking the control away from the driver, then the driver has to fight or correct it to get control back. So if it's a pulling rut grabber, its ball joints.

That sounds ALOT like what I have going on with mine. I assumed it was from having 40 inch tires at 6PSI on 15 inch rims and NOT having crossover steering on a 12 inch lift..Ideas?

 

[crazy4offroad]

I forgot to add you may want to play with tire pressures. Too much can cause wandering, and too little can cause following. 6 psi is pretty dang low Dustin!! Crossover steering basically eliminates bump-steer and gives your steering system more mechanical advantage to steer big tires. With 40s Dustin you may want to do crossover even if it's a street queen.

 

[LowOnGas]

I forgot to add you may want to play with tire pressures. Too much can cause wandering, and too little can cause following. 6 psi is pretty dang low Dustin!! Crossover steering basically eliminates bump-steer and gives your steering system more mechanical advantage to steer big tires. With 40s Dustin you may want to do crossover even if it's a street queen.

Crossover steering kit is different from D40 and 60 to my knowledge. I have been wanting to hold off on the crossover until I can put 3/4 ton or 1 ton axles under it. would it also cause the truck to steer itself when I brake due to suspension flexing? I thought it might be a caliper or possibly some air in one of the brake lines, but it all seems to be fine. I offroad the truck quite often, I just try to take it easy unless I'm in a mudhole(because of the 10 bolts).

 

[crazy4offroad]

Usually steering pull while braking is brake-related, like caliper or a bad brake hose. Yes the kits are different between Dana 44/10-bolt and D60. IMO you're not gonna gain any strength going from a 10-bolt to a D44 other than 8-lug wheels. I know it's a real punch in the wallet but D60 is the true next step up from 1/2 ton front axle. D44/10-bolt passenger knuckle has to be decked and drilled/tapped at a machine shop to accept the crossover steering arm, or buy an aftermarket knuckle already made for it. D60 you just remove the kingpin cap, put in some longer studs and bolt on the steering arm.

 

[LowOnGas]

Usually steering pull while braking is brake-related, like caliper or a bad brake hose. Yes the kits are different between Dana 44/10-bolt and D60. IMO you're not gonna gain any strength going from a 10-bolt to a D44 other than 8-lug wheels. I know it's a real punch in the wallet but D60 is the true next step up from 1/2 ton front axle. D44/10-bolt passenger knuckle has to be decked and drilled/tapped at a machine shop to accept the crossover steering arm, or buy an aftermarket knuckle already made for it. D60 you just remove the kingpin cap, put in some longer studs and bolt on the steering arm.

I am hoping to step up to 42's..I don't know if I'll be able to clear 44's..and it'll either be TSL's or boggers. The way it's sounding though I need to just save up for the 60&14bolt then start doing my major mods.