my full floater rebuild

[86chevyk20]

Hey guys again thanks for your help on my rear axle questions on my other post.
I have chosen to rebuild/refresh the 10.5 3/4 ton full floater i have. I dont want to cut off perches on that 1ton i have and move them.

So i have starting taking the axle apart all looks good. no metal chunks or burs on the ring gear and even the fluid wasnt bad.

questions...

1.disc brake conversion or leave it drum
2.how do i remove the wheel studs from the drum so i can replace the bearings and the drum
3.what eles should i check or look through while refreshing this axle.

This is a refresh mostly not a total rebuild.

ANY PICS WOULD BE GREAT!!

its a open carrier now but i may put a limited slip in. not sure. i just bought a 2009 silverado from a chevy dealer soo now i have payments lol

I have included pics.


Thanks

Liam

 

[chevydude]

defiantly go disc brakes it is simple and if you look around for parts it will be cheeper in the long run than rebuilding drums over and over again. Ruff stuff has some great brackets for the conversion.

 

[86chevyk20]

im going to those brakets are cheap for discs!!! but when i go to buy rotors and bearings and pads and calipers what vehicle to i tell them to look up at autozone

 

[bucket]

IMHO, only replace the stuff that's bad. If the bearings, seals, etc are in good serviceable condition, leave them be. I also wouldn't do a disc swap unless the drums, shoes, or wheel cylinders need replaced. Unless it's a mudding truck, then it would be good to lose the drums.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Also check your local laws. Swapping to rear disk leaves you without a park brake, something that would cause a truck to fail state safety inspection. I have a thread here on the forum for setting up the ring & pinion for the 14-bolt, gotta be the easiest EVER to set up.

 

[86chevyk20]

thats my plan is to reuse what is still good. Im going to compare the price of all new drums and shoes and hardware to the price of rotors and calipers. Yes here is new york state you need an ebrake

 

[crazy4offroad]

I went with rear disk because mine qualified for the antique vehicle exemption, and also the stock brakes were screwed. Drums, everything inside, hell even the backing plates were crumbling away, nothing but junk. In the long run for me the disk brake option was the cheapest alternative.

 

[Swims350]

they don't make a kit with an internal drum park brake?

I usually only replace the bad stuff too.

Don't forget rear discs also requires a different proportioning valve IIRC, to adjust rear pressure.

 

[philjafo]

Also check your local laws. Swapping to rear disk leaves you without a park brake, something that would cause a truck to fail state safety inspection. I have a thread here on the forum for setting up the ring & pinion for the 14-bolt, gotta be the easiest EVER to set up.

The PO did the disk brake conversion on my 14 bolt and the parking brake works just fine. IIRC he used the calipers from a late model 14 bolt and the parking brake is in the caliper not the hat of the rotor. I'm putting a f**d 8.8 rear axle from an exploder into my 49 Plymouth restomod it has disks with the parking brake in the rotor hat. I'll take some pics of my calipers when the sun is shining and put em up here.

 

[bucket]

The PO did the disk brake conversion on my 14 bolt and the parking brake works just fine. IIRC he used the calipers from a late model 14 bolt and the parking brake is in the caliper not the hat of the rotor. I'm putting a f**d 8.8 rear axle from an exploder into my 49 Plymouth restomod it has disks with the parking brake in the rotor hat. I'll take some pics of my calipers when the sun is shining and put em up here.

As far as I know, even the new new trucks still have the park brake in the rotor hat. The old late 70's Eldorado rear calipers have the park brake lever on them and bolt to the common disc swap brackets.

 

[philjafo]

As promised here are a couple pics of the rear brakes on my truck, Parking brake lever right on the back of the caliper.

 

[89Suburban]

How do those disk parking brakes (caliper mounted or tophat) compare to standard drum brakes in holding power? For example, my Suburban with a boat and trailer on a steep boat ramp.

 

[philjafo]

I'm not sure I could give a fair comparison, my truck is single cab short wheelbase with a standard trans. That said it does hold pretty good but I won't depend solely on it, always turn the wheel and leave it in first when parked on a hill. If I forget to take it off it stalls the truck.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Drum brakes are far superior in holding power. Just imagine the pad material on brake pads and compare it to the amount of pad material on brake shoes.

 

[HotRodPC]

How To : Remove Pinion Gear from Bearing Retainer???

Did you ever get this axle built Liam???

I'm going to borrow this thread for some quick brainstorm ideas instead of fire up a new thread for this minor matter.

I've tore down the CUCV 4.56 Detroit Locker rear axle. I've got the Carrier sold and shipped off. Kept the Detroit Locker. The 4.56 gears are in great shape and I want to sell them too. I've got the pinion down to this point here. According to the 14b FF Bible, I need a shop press to get the pinion gear out of the pinion bearing retainer. I've got the Pinion Nut off without damage to the threads. I don't have a shop press, but I do have a 12 or 20 ton Bottle Jack. Anyone got any ideas of what other method I can use to get this gear out of the retainer???

You must be registered for see images attach