Mild 350 build. Opinions? Anybody?

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4WDKC

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Thanks for your detailed comments.
I am by no means against retro rollers.... I understand all the benefits.... I only wish I could trust them for high mileage reliability. Even 150K would be
acceptable.
I respect guys that are maybe to say, on the hobby side of their old truck fetish. But I'm even a bit more crazy because I do this out of necessity.
And to make matters worse, I'll admit I actually think these old engines and parts are better than anything new... and a fraction of the cost.
If you gave a 2019 fully loaded $100K truck I sorry but I would sell it and buy old junk.

And just to be clear, I'm referring to retro rollers, for the older blocks never designed for this. Also I am usually referring to BBs... because I have a few on the build now waiting for the shop to get finished, and I so wish I could trust the rollers! The hot rod and truck guys in my woods with roller experience are for the most part BB junkies. So I don't really have any reliable info with sb and rollers... but take note my machinist/builder and a tech from Lunati both
told me small blocks with retro rollers will out live BB rollers.. Maybe there's something to that, perhaps not opening the valves over 1/2" helps.

Oh I forgot Dave (Dave's not here...) my BB head porting guru... This guy always drives 600+ hp trucks and sometimes Corvettes. He likes 496s and rollers. he eventually switched to solid rollers (from hyd rollers...again, retro). Amazing dude, but also kinda like wtf... He used to build fancy furniture... like
formal dining room table and chairs that would sell for $150K in the US. He has some brain issue and needs to see a specialist in Pennsylvania. And he has to drive, he can't fly or get an aneurysm or three..
Sorry I digress.. But man can he ever port a set of 781...!

AND ONE LAST POINT about retro rollers that really picks MY ASS...
I build for propane. I like it... Hides the smell of my farts. My propane engines idle down to 500-550 rpm. They also rev up really quickly, like a 2 stroke!
Can you guess the potential problem for dem little needle bearings inside the rollers? Give you a hint... it has something to do with oil... or lack thereof..
Again this was something the Lunati tech told me.


I would prefer to use a roller cam block to build an engine, then you can use GM roller lifters that have been used gm engines since 87ish, most sbc's with these dont have roller lifter issues. The 454 roller cam engines used lifters that werent built for performance and cant tolerate high lift cams and should be replaced for performance applications. Next time you need an engine find one of these and try it as a junkyard swap as they call it.
 

shiftpro

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I would prefer to use a roller cam block to build an engine, then you can use GM roller lifters that have been used gm engines since 87ish, most sbc's with these dont have roller lifter issues. The 454 roller cam engines used lifters that werent built for performance and cant tolerate high lift cams and should be replaced for performance applications. Next time you need an engine find one of these and try it as a junkyard swap as they call it.
Thanks KC I meant to bring this up...
The older non-roller blocks are hard to find and expensive around here, where the older non roller blocks are plentiful and a dime a doz...
It seems everywhere I look I see old non roller blocks jumping at me... they are abandoned and forgotten... poor things. I wanna give 'em homes..
 

TravisB

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I am digging this thread. I have 2 old non-roller 350's sitting in my garage. I had debated this very thing because I just want to make a mild mannered street engine for my square. I am going to run an auto trans and probably won't be spending the money on a set of heads unless I just get lucky and find a deal. I like the idea of old school parts too. A period correct build seems super cool.
 

Backfoot100

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FWIW I built a mild 383 for my boat with a retrofit roller cam and full roller valvetrain.
All Comp Cams hardware was used and it now has 400hrs on it. I couldn't be happier with it.
It isn't babied and runs at sustained 4K+ RPM barefoot speeds every time we have it out.
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it but it wasn't a cheap option.
 

hirschdalechevy

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FWIW I built a mild 383 for my boat with a retrofit roller cam and full roller valvetrain.
All Comp Cams hardware was used and it now has 400hrs on it. I couldn't be happier with it.
It isn't babied and runs at sustained 4K+ RPM barefoot speeds every time we have it out.
I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it but it wasn't a cheap option.


My earlier post I was talking about my girls truck with 59,000 mile's on it with a retrofit roller set up in her square , so I stopped by my buddies house yesterday to ask him how many miles he had on his square and what retrofit roller set up he had, (his square rip's as well) and he said his set up is 9.6 to 1 , vortec heads , and all howards cams retrofit roller equipment. He also said that this set up was about to turn 40,000 mile's and has never had an issue. I have street raced my girls truck against his a few times and he always get's me a truck length but my girls truck has 35's on it and he is running 33's. So down the road we will have to see if these bad ass square's will fly over a 100,000 mile's, I believe they will without problems. 400lbs torque and 350 hp is a lot of fun in an old square and still be able to get good mileage is a plus as well.
 

Backfoot100

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@Backfoot100 what kind of boat do you have?

Pix!

86 American Skier tournament barefoot boat. Looks way cool being pulled around with a 86 Sub.

This before the rebuild.

You must be registered for see images attach


This is after the engine rebuild and wetsanding, polishing and waxing the hull.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Backfoot100

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Been trying to figure out how to link a video to this. Been struggling. Guess we'll see. Technically challenged and I work for technology company....go figure. I don't do facebook, Instagram, Twitter or YouTube so deal with it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGTf6tvK4KH84jaK8

Highlight the link and copy/paste to your web browser. I got it to work but that doesn't mean squat.

This is my boat doing a multi-line barefoot pull. Five guys doing a deepwater start and then running those same five 42mph.
WOT on the boat unloaded is 54 MPH which is wicked fast for a flat bottom tournament ski boat. For those not familiar, being able to do a pull like this on an old school tournament ski boat would be akin to running a 12 or 13 sec. quarter mile in a square.

Let me know if it works.
 

Shorty81

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Been trying to figure out how to link a video to this. Been struggling. Guess we'll see. Technically challenged and I work for technology company....go figure. I don't do facebook, Instagram, Twitter or YouTube so deal with it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGTf6tvK4KH84jaK8

Highlight the link and copy/paste to your web browser. I got it to work but that doesn't mean squat.

This is my boat doing a multi-line barefoot pull. Five guys doing a deepwater start and then running those same five 42mph.
WOT on the boat unloaded is 54 MPH which is wicked fast for a flat bottom tournament ski boat. For those not familiar, being able to do a pull like this on an old school tournament ski boat would be akin to running a 12 or 13 sec. quarter mile in a square.

Let me know if it works.
That was COOL....
 

heffalump

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Back in the 60's 3+9/16 (3.5625) stroke cranks were available for the 327s.. 363 CID in a 4.030 bore block.
369 CID in a 4.060 bore block.

Works with the Torker.

Think it over! This was the "383" of the good old days.

You have peaked my interest sir.. I've never heard of this setup (I'm a little embarrassed to say) I need more info!
 

Snoots

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I'd say they are 'massageable'.

Most of the things you'd normally do should suffice nicely, i.e.; port match, chamber polish, cc the chambers, smooth out the exhaust ports AMAP, grind out all of the casting flash, 3 angle valve job, heat treat the valve seats, deck it, shot peen and magnaflux the springs, pressure check and match the springs, make certain the spring seats are true, threaded rocker studs (not pressed in). And probably a lot of other stuff I've long since forgotten.

'72's weren't too deep into smog country so anything you can do to improve flow will be good.

Pick your cam and rockers from there; 1.5 or 1.62 ratio. Also, consider new push rods. Not longer but, thicker wall to prevent harmonic distortion.
 

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