Might have Over-torqued Rod Bolts 250 I6

[jjester6000]

Jack, do you have a dial indicator? I would pull the clutch etc. down to the flange, to see if there is some paint, or? check runout. You want NO runout. Check for burrs, use a fine file, or a knife sharpening stone and it should NOT hang up anywhere. Check the flywheel mating side for the same. It takes very little to make something runout, and with the runout you have, it should be very obvious. If the flywheel is the culprit, I could show you how to true it up on a lathe, done it a few times.

I don't have a dial indicator, but I'll pull it off and check what's going on either tonight or tomorrow.

How big of an issue would this cause if it were a warped flange though? The reason I ask is because the guy who was helping me put the engine together (my neighbor) for some reason thought the crank flange was pressed on, and I he was prying on it before I had to stop him.

 

[jjester6000]

He's also the one who overtorqued the rod bolts in the first place when he got the torque specs mixed up with a chrysler slant 6.

He's retired, so he would do stuff to the engine while I was at work,

 

[Craig Nedrow]

Jack, they are not pressed on, it is one piece. prying on a crankshaft, why? Geez that is crazy. In my mind I am fixing that bent flange, (if that is it), and I am sure it can be done. Usually it is done in a lathe, but that's not happening. first things first. If you had a helper, the engine could be turned over and use a pencil to find the high side. May be able to see it by eye as well. Let me know.

 

[jjester6000]

Jack, they are not pressed on, it is one piece. prying on a crankshaft, why? Geez that is crazy. In my mind I am fixing that bent flange, (if that is it), and I am sure it can be done. Usually it is done in a lathe, but that's not happening. first things first. If you had a helper, the engine could be turned over and use a pencil to find the high side. May be able to see it by eye as well. Let me know.

I just want to know what would happen if I did in fact run it like that? I'm already over budget on this escapade.

How would I straighten it without a lathe?

Also, I know they aren't pressed on, but this guy is a mopar guy (though I'm not sure those are pressed on either).

 

[Ricko1966]

This is going to be hard to explain,I hope I can.Find the closest thru and through location to the crank that you can stick a piece of all thread through use 2 nuts 2 washers to anchor your all thread. Screw on another nut followed by a flat washer slip the closed end of a combination wrench over the all thread followed by another washer and nut. Now by turning the nuts on the all thread you can run the combination wrench down until it touches the crank flange tighten the nuts now rotate the engine watch the wrench and adjust the nuts,now you will see a gap open and close,let me know how much that gap changes. Us a feeler gauge. See the magnetic mount on the block,use all thread through a bolt hole,see the pivot bar and dial indicator? Use a combination wrench use nuts and washers to position it. Touch the crank back it off a touch,measure the gap with feeler gauges. You may have to make the feeler bar. Drill a hole through a piece of pipe 1 inch from the end, same hole 1 inch from the other end walk the bar up and down and walk a second all thread in and out with nuts and washers. In that case it will be all thread instead of magnetic mount,pipe instead of crossbar second all thread as dial indicator plunger.

 

[jjester6000]

This is going to be hard to explain,I hope I can find the closest thru and through location to the crank that you can stick a piece of all thread through use 2 nuts 2 washers to anchor your all thread. Screw on another nut followed by a flat washer slip the closed end of a combination wrench over the all thread followed by another washer and nut. Now by turning the nuts on the all thread you can run the combination wrench down until it touches the crank flange tighten the nuts now rotate the engine watch the wrench and adjust the nuts,now you will see a gap open and close,let me know how much that gap changes. Us a feeler gauge. See the magnetic mount on the block,use all thread through a bolt hole,see the pivot bar and dial indicator? Use a combination wrench use nuts and washers to position it. Touch the crank back it off a touch,measure the gap with feeler gauges. You may have to make the feeler bar. Drill a hole through a piece of 1 inch from the end same hole 1 inch from the other end walk the bar up and down and walk a second all thread in and out with nuts and washers. In that case it will be all thread instead of magnetic mount,pipe instead of crossbar second all thread as dial indicator plunger.

I'll try this out, but if it's bent to the point I can't fix it, what would happen if I ran it like this? How bad would the vibration be?

There is no way that this engine is getting torn down again.

 

[Ricko1966]

Well one thing I'd be afraid it's going to break the center out of clutch discs,also afraid the transmission input shaft will bind in the pilot bearing. Let's see what you got going on before we borrow too much trouble. I cant imagine your friend is strong enough to bend a crankshaft. I would believe the end of the crank got banged up and the flywheel is not setting square. And one last trick I know a ghetto 50/50 shot for straightening cranks.

 

[jjester6000]

False alarm!

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So I yanked the flywheel off and put the original 10 inch clutch one on, and it spins true (mind the torn up ring gear).

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Then I looked closely at my other flywheel and found a crack in the center, no doubt being attributed to an embarrassing incident that happended about a month ago (I explain it in the video).

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(Going to pick this up tomorrow).
Sorry, I was freaking out there for a bit, as I got nearly $1000 invested into this whole ordeal (Including the engine I dropped) and I didn't want it to be for nothing.

 

[Ricko1966]

Just as I was trying to make an example you'd understand imagine the 2 bolts are all thread rod with nuts and washers,the closepin is a pipe with 2 holes. You bolt one all thread solid,like if you were checking the crank use the bellhouse bolt hole with the dowel,the pipe/ clothespin gets your side to side distance, then the run the other all thread in until it touches than back out a smidgen then you can check clearance with a feeler gauge. A .010 gauge goes in,you rotate 90 degrees and now a .030 fits you have .020 runout.

 

[jjester6000]

Just as I was trying to make an example you'd understand imagine the 2 bolts are all thread rod with nuts and washers,the closepin is a pipe with 2 holes. You bolt one all thread solid,like if you were checking the crank use the bellhouse bolt hole with the dowel,the pipe/ clothespin gets your side to side distance, then the run the other all thread in until it touches than back out a smidgen then you can check clearance with a feeler gauge. A .010 gauge goes in,you rotate 90 degrees and now a .030 fits you have .020 runout.

Thank you, and thats quite a clever doohickey, I might have to use it some day.

 

[MikeB]

I seriously doubt 45 ft/lbs would have hurt the rods and required them to be resized. In fact, I'd say "no way". The only thing the little extra torque did was stretch the bolt some more. I'm surprised a bolt broke at only 5 ft/lbs over spec. It must have been over-torqued and stretched too much in the past. Good call on the ARP bolts & nuts. I'd say follow ARP's lube and torque instructions to a tee, but I see you have it all back together now. Happy motoring!

 

[Craig Nedrow]

You can “ring test” the flywheel for future reference, tap it and a good flywheel will ring, bad will kinda go “ thunk”. Useful for testing all kinds of stuff. I originally used this method to test grinding stones b-4 installing them on the spindle.

 

[SquareRoot]

Funny how similar these two threads started off. This is like part 2 of this: https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/taking-off-passenger-head-about-37-bolts-so-far.40542/

 

[Ricko1966]

You can “ring test” the flywheel for future reference, tap it and a good flywheel will ring, bad will kinda go “ thunk”. Useful for testing all kinds of stuff. I originally used this method to test grinding stones b-4 installing them on the spindle.

Same with cranks.

 

[jjester6000]

Just picked up my brand-used flywheel.

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The one the autoparts store had was for a 1 piece rear main seal engine, so I ran to a local machine shop, and they had this for half the price already machined (it passed the bell test).