Looking for a softer ride

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DoubleDingo

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35 or 39 for a shock is a deal, get them. HD or otherwise, get them, you'll be glad you did
 

84GMCSierra

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My 81 C20 rides just fine. Stock. Nothing removed. I got Monroe shocks. I might try a different brand when I replace them, just realized they are 11 years old in July. BUT! When I got my truck the shocks were froze. It rode like a wagon without springs. It outright sucked. I don't recommend this, but I removed the shocks until I could buy the new ones. I don't recommend this because it's bouncy and unsafe. If you're driving around a farm or a cul-de-sac it won't matter, but if on streets going at speed it's not safe or for the faint of heart. Once you replace the shocks, and make sure you replace the studs that go to the frame too, and also make sure the studs are solidly tightened to the frame so there is not movement. The rear shocks on mine had loosened those studs and I am lucky the holes didn't wollered out.
Thanks DoubleDingo. I think the shocks come with new studs. If they don't, I will definitely get some. I really lucked out on this truck when I bought it 5 years ago. Very little rust, except in the lower left corner of the windshield, which I fixed, and the right cab corner, where someone left a 10 foot piece of chain, and it rusted. The majority of the chain still looks brand new, lol
 

SquareRoot

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My 81 C20 rides just fine. Stock. Nothing removed. I got Monroe shocks. I might try a different brand when I replace them, just realized they are 11 years old in July. BUT! When I got my truck the shocks were froze. It rode like a wagon without springs. It outright sucked. I don't recommend this, but I removed the shocks until I could buy the new ones. I don't recommend this because it's bouncy and unsafe. If you're driving around a farm or a cul-de-sac it won't matter, but if on streets going at speed it's not safe or for the faint of heart. Once you replace the shocks, and make sure you replace the studs that go to the frame too, and also make sure the studs are solidly tightened to the frame so there is not movement. The rear shocks on mine had loosened those studs and I am lucky the holes didn't wollered out.
A LOT of your response reminds me of my ex for some reason?
 

Grit dog

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You really won’t notice it if the rear shocks are removed. Fronts likely either. Probably don’t work now…
Unsafe? Idk I believe that. On some level I suppose? Whatever.
Before you go to guttin out springs and reverse leveling it, how much air you got in the back tires? Any more than about 35-40psi in an empty truck and the tires are making it ride tougher than it needs to.
 

squaredeal91

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Take apart the pack and grease it, replace centering pin bolts and put back together. Be surprised what that will do
 

DoubleDingo

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Carb'ed Vortec 350; 1972 L48 350
I stand by what I said.
 

Bextreme04

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Take apart the pack and grease it, replace centering pin bolts and put back together. Be surprised what that will do
NOT grease. It will collect dust and become sandpaper. Stock, they have a plastic sheet between the leaf packs that allow them to slide against each other without binding. You can buy that sheeting from most spring suppliers for pretty cheap. I replaced the delrin sliders on mine and coated the contact surfaces of the springs with a graphite based paint you can get at tractor supply called EZ-Slide. It wont collect dust and creates a graphite impregnated surface to allow the metal to slide without binding.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...rSioQn7q5qkeOyvtcsSYnFGYoFujAokxoCZhkQAvD_BwE
 

squaredeal91

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NOT grease. It will collect dust and become sandpaper. Stock, they have a plastic sheet between the leaf packs that allow them to slide against each other without binding. You can buy that sheeting from most spring suppliers for pretty cheap. I replaced the delrin sliders on mine and coated the contact surfaces of the springs with a graphite based paint you can get at tractor supply called EZ-Slide. It wont collect dust and creates a graphite impregnated surface to allow the metal to slide without binding.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...rSioQn7q5qkeOyvtcsSYnFGYoFujAokxoCZhkQAvD_BwE
Looks like good stuff. I stand corrected lol
 

Craig 85

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A couple of other ride thoughts. The spring bushings and shackles could be very dry and are no longer flexible, which could cause a stiff ride. Also, before I tell what springs to remove, I'd like to see a picture the full pack.

Another way to get a softer ride too is lower the rear tire pressure. I keep my rears at about 35-40 until I want to haul/tow something. 10 Plys aren't too forgiving.
 

84GMCSierra

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You really won’t notice it if the rear shocks are removed. Fronts likely either. Probably don’t work now…
Unsafe? Idk I believe that. On some level I suppose? Whatever.
Before you go to guttin out springs and reverse leveling it, how much air you got in the back tires? Any more than about 35-40psi in an empty truck and the tires are making it ride tougher than it needs to.
I'm running about 65 PSI in the rears and about 45 in the fronts. I was hoping for just a smidge better mileage but no luck, lol. The front shocks we're replaced a couple years ago, but they are already leaking. I don't think they were the right ones. They look more like small car shocks. Back shocks are definitely shot so have to replace those.
 

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