Looking at car lifts

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82sbshortbed

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Yall make a lot of good points and good information. Thanks I appreciate it. I didn't even think about the foundation needing to be a little stronger. My driveway needs to be replaced and garage is too small. That's why I'd have to put it on the side of the house. Scissor lift is out of the question and would go with a 2 post more than likely for just a bit more money.
 

HOTFOOT

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A few years ago I picked up 4 9000# rotary 2 post lifts from a dealership that went out a bunch of years ago, only paid 600 dollars a piece for them.
Where I messed up was I should have hit him up for the Specialty tools, silly me. I was just happy to get the lifts, sold 3 and keep one for me.
 

Bextreme04

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Yall make a lot of good points and good information. Thanks I appreciate it. I didn't even think about the foundation needing to be a little stronger. My driveway needs to be replaced and garage is too small. That's why I'd have to put it on the side of the house. Scissor lift is out of the question and would go with a 2 post more than likely for just a bit more money.
You might look at one of those metal frame building to go over the top as well. They are pretty cheap(probably cheaper than the lift) and would give you a nice shelter to work under. Since you are having to redo the pad anyways for the lift support, its trivial to make it the right size and mounting requirements to secure a metal frame building too. Most municipalities/counties don't consider them permanent structures, so you can get away with them in areas you couldn't necessarily put a real building and often setup/installation is included in the price.
 

shiftpro

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Yall make a lot of good points and good information. Thanks I appreciate it. I didn't even think about the foundation needing to be a little stronger. My driveway needs to be replaced and garage is too small. That's why I'd have to put it on the side of the house. Scissor lift is out of the question and would go with a 2 post more than likely for just a bit more money.

A LOT stronger. I've seen the footings done to code, and that was several years ago.. so probably the requirements are now even more stringent.
The footings I saw was about 2x4' and 12" thick under each leg. Lots of rebar and the mounting bolts with a 'T' on the bottom were installed. Not just bolts pushed into the cement like plate tie downs on home construction. And TWO of them (2 legs). Then there was a minimum of 3" of concrete poured over top these footings.

Now a 4 post lift is much less complicated to install. A friend installed one in his home garage a few years ago, and by code all he needed was 4" of concrete underneath.

In lefty Canada, lifts are coming up for sale all over as garages are getting pinched by the government every day. They are making garages update their equipment. 'So how old is your lift? Oh that won't do... you need to buy a new one.' Somehow the government has determined lifts have a shelf life...

I got my 4 post a few years back, payed $3000 for it. It has the sliding air lift doodads on it, so I can lift my truck while it's on... the lift. I love the
stability offered, and even though the ramps take up some space (working under a car, and also floor space) I like the space to place tools and such. These are great for trucks and especially doing suspension work, as I can lift the truck to a good working height and then with the air jacks I can
lift the chassis off the suspension, like you would normally have with a 2 post lift.

With a your own lift, you can make a buck renting out shop space as guys will be happy to use it. "Bring your own tools and $100 a day to use my lift,
and compressed air... and if you bring beer you can also use my shop fridge!" Everyone is happy!
 

Poppy 87

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A LOT stronger. I've seen the footings done to code, and that was several years ago.. so probably the requirements are now even more stringent.
The footings I saw was about 2x4' and 12" thick under each leg. Lots of rebar and the mounting bolts with a 'T' on the bottom were installed. Not just bolts pushed into the cement like plate tie downs on home construction. And TWO of them (2 legs). Then there was a minimum of 3" of concrete poured over top these footings.

Now a 4 post lift is much less complicated to install. A friend installed one in his home garage a few years ago, and by code all he needed was 4" of concrete underneath.

In lefty Canada, lifts are coming up for sale all over as garages are getting pinched by the government every day. They are making garages update their equipment. 'So how old is your lift? Oh that won't do... you need to buy a new one.' Somehow the government has determined lifts have a shelf life...

I got my 4 post a few years back, payed $3000 for it. It has the sliding air lift doodads on it, so I can lift my truck while it's on... the lift. I love the
stability offered, and even though the ramps take up some space (working under a car, and also floor space) I like the space to place tools and such. These are great for trucks and especially doing suspension work, as I can lift the truck to a good working height and then with the air jacks I can
lift the chassis off the suspension, like you would normally have with a 2 post lift.

With a your own lift, you can make a buck renting out shop space as guys will be happy to use it. "Bring your own tools and $100 a day to use my lift,
and compressed air... and if you bring beer you can also use my shop fridge!" Everyone is happy!
I'd be very cautious about subletting your lift unless you have insurance for that. Seems like a lawsuit waiting to happen

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Bextreme04

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I'd be very cautious about subletting your lift unless you have insurance for that. Seems like a lawsuit waiting to happen

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Yeah, someone might drop their suburban off the back of it or something... right @Vbb199 :emotions33:
 

Craig Nedrow

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Bend pak 10000 lb lift, have had the truck up on it days at a time, quality USA made. I got the 4 inch risers, need them for trucks. Have kept the Corvette up there for months. Why support China? Do you think they are doing us any favors?

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Craig Nedrow

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Hey Idahovette, nice to here from ya. Welllll, in three days I will receive the money for the farm I sold, (one farm, still have 230 acres.) I think I will buy a MaxG frame and suspension from Art Morrison, and install the LS1 with the T56. The motor will be mostly stock, stage two cam, lifters and springs, headers and 3" exhaust. Will install trunion kit like I did for the LQ4 motor. I have three rigs I am building at the same time. My goal, is to make everything interchangeable, 1954 3600 LQ4 turbo all forged internals, T Speed stage three turbo cam. 64 Nova 400 sport coupe modified LS1, 73 K20 454. I have always had a hard time leaving things alone, but the 454 in the 73, while not a cheap date....would never go back to the 350. It is a real farm truck, I work the poop out of it, hauls a trailer constantly. Feels weird to get in it and not be dragging something behind. Body needs attention. Few Pic. Last pic is the C3 Vett front end I fabed for it, also have a conplete 94 Camaro could use...may still go with that...decision time


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Craig Nedrow

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Back half of the car was rusted out, so replaced trunk, L & R quarters. Body is actually pretty nice. This will be home built. Seats and interior are finished.
 

toddc72

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todd
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k10
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350
Rotary 2 post lift here. !0,000 lbs. Have left a Ford 550 with flat bed and Powerstroke engine on it for weeks and never felt scared being under it. I just always make sure to raise the lift above the locks and than slowly lower it back down and listen for each one to catch. If I can't hear them? Than I am still slowly lowering it down and if one side is continually coming down farther than the other side? Than I missed the locks and try again. The other thing to decide is asymmetrical or symmetrical lift. Each one has pluses. I Would love if my was asymmetrical sometimes to get into the doors easier or work on things. Other times I just have the fear a little of all the weight being offset from the columns and not centered pushing straight down.
 

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