K10 rear axle seals

[Subourbon]

I recently posted about a brake leak at the drum. Turned out to be diff oil. The brake leak was rubber line coming down to the split between rear wheels.

Anyways, back to the point.
I watched videos on how to do the seals.

Looks time consuming but over all not as hard as I thought. Not easy, but not overly technical.

My question is, can I do the seals and bearing with brake hardware in place?
I did my drum brake years ago, and they take me forever, and honestly looking at the job, removing and reinstalling the drum brake stuff would be the most time consuming.

But using the puller and bearing & seal driver, the brake hardware surrounds the axle tube, but nothing really interferes with it, right?

 

[legopnuematic]

You should be fine, just stuff some rags or aluminum foil around the brake shoes and stuff to keep any gear oil off of them.

Be mindful when removing the cross pin bolt in the carrier, use some heat to release any loctite, it doesn’t take much to break those off. Not the end of the world, but better to avoid that if possible.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Don't need to pull apart any of the brake system other than pulling the drum. No interference issues. Definitely a good idea to do the bearings at the same time, but also take a very good look at the bearing surface on the axle shafts.

The worst part is having to pull the diff cover and the c-clips, but that's real easy stuff. The only real scary part is dealing with the cross pin bolt, inspect the bolt VERY closely. You do not want to break it off in the carrier. I also put a little loctite on the pin bolt going back together, but that's just me.

 

[Ricko1966]

HEAT the cross pin bolt with propane before trying to remove it!!! They are supposed to be loctited and new bolts come with loctite on them,heat melts the loctite so you don't break the bolt off. Common there's even a special repair kit for if it happens.

 

[WFO]

I've always replaced the brake shoes when they get gear lube on them from a seal leak.

 

[Ricko1966]

I've always replaced the brake shoes when they get gear lube on them from a seal leak.

That's a great idea, the best thing to do. But if for some reason it isn't an option wash them in gas or lacquer thinner,wash them hood let them sit and soak the pull them out and light them on fire. The solvent diluted the oil and burns it out,the heat draws it out of the linings. It's an old trick,works for clutches too. Not sayingbits the best plan,but better than just spraying them with brake clean.

 

[Scruffy49]

That's a great idea, the best thing to do. But if for some reason it isn't an option wash them in gas or lacquer thinner,wash them hood let them sit and soak the pull them out and light them on fire. The solvent diluted the oil and burns it out,the heat draws it out of the linings. It's an old trick,works for clutches too. Not sayingbits the best plan,but better than just spraying them with brake clean.

Wouldn’t the gear oil have already eaten the adhesive in the brake shoes? That trick works on old school riveted asbestos linings, not sure it applies to modern “eco friendly” linings.

 

[Ricko1966]

Wouldn’t the gear oil have already eaten the adhesive in the brake shoes? That trick works on old school riveted asbestos linings, not sure it applies to modern “eco friendly” linings.

You know,it's not something I do everyday or yearly or even more than once or twice in my entire life. I wouldn't swear one way or the other if I've done this to bonded shoes for sure.