I’m interested in swapping out the TH350 for a 700R4

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ron1445

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In my 79 K10 long bed. I know it’s pretty easy to do in a later model truck but concerned that my older truck with the full time 4wd might have some complications. Anyone ever done this and willing to share what’s involved?
 

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NickTransmissions

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In my 79 K10 long bed. I know it’s pretty easy to do in a later model truck but concerned that my older truck with the full time 4wd might have some complications. Anyone ever done this and willing to share what’s involved?
What's your truck's current final drive ratio?
 

ron1445

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you have a np203? You want to put a 700r4 in front of that? I dont recommend it

but if you WANT To do it and have a 700r4 4x4 trans, https://www.offroaddesign.com/700r4-spacer-1-7-8-inch-with-bolts.html
that is thick enough to account for the extra shaft of the 700r4
Can you confirm the spline count on your 700r4
It’s not so much a matter of wanting to, just something that was recommended to enhance the driveability of the truck by a local guy with a nice squarebody. Just exploring what’s involved and feasibility at this point.
 

NickTransmissions

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I know it has 3.73 gears, turning a little over 3000 rpm at 70 mph
Ok, you're good...One commonly overlooked aspect of doing these swaps is the gear ratio. Many have a very tall a gear ratio and dont upgrade to a deeper one before swapping in the OD trans. They then wonder why the OD trans keeps slipping when trying to accelerate in 4th gear.
 

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good point i didnt think about that. a th350 vs 700r4 will have a very different first gear too, so the rear ratio could probably come down to 3.20 and be pleasant to drive still. but if you like big tires you could keep your likely 3.73 or whatever stock ;)
 

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I'm in the process of installing a 700R4 between a 400sbc/NP203 in my 76' K20. I went with Gearstar for the transmission and they built it to handle the torque (Level 3). I'm extremely happy with the kit and quality of the work so far. I haven't driven it yet, so that review will come later. I don't intend to drive it hard and no extreme off-road climbing, so I expect it will survive just fine. They made sure to install the output shaft needed to work with the NP203. The stock TH350 adapter works with the 700R4, so mounting it up was no problem. Gearstar also used the "K" case for the transmission, which is said to have beefier wall thickness.
I still wanted to add some support, so I found there was a support arm on some trucks/blazers that went from the side of the 203 T-Case (2 large 5/8" bolt holes) up to the bellhousing. This helps with the bending load on the transmission case. So, I sourced one (on eBay), and cut it in order to lengthen it. I used a piece of tube to sleeve it for the 2.5" extension. I fixtured it in place and then welded the sleeve to the support. (see attached image)

Overall list of issues to resolve: (my status)
* Resolve the output shaft compatibility with the NP203. In my case, Gearstar took care of this by installing the Advanced Adapters output shaft. (DONE)
* Trans to T-Case adapter: If you currently have a TH350, then you're good. If you have a TH400, then you'll need to source the correct adapter (ebay) (DONE)
* Cooling: There are a lot of opinions on how to cool a transmission. Gearstar provided a cooler in the kit and said DO NOT run the fluid through the radiator. Cooler only. (DONE)
* Gear selector/Shifter: I am not using the stock column, so I don't know if there are any issues with the number of detents for each gear in a stock column. I'm installing a retrofit Ididit column and it has the correct # of detents for the 4 gears. I also picked up the gear selector that will show correct for the 4 gears. (DONE)
* The front driveshaft will need to be "stretched" ~2.5", which means they'll need to install a new tube. (NOT DONE)
* The rear driveshaft will need to be shortened ~2.5". (NOT DONE)
* The transmission-T-Case crossmember sits back (you guessed it, ~2.5"), so new holes need to be drilled. Easy. (DONE)
* The stock shifter will sit ~2.5" back in the tunnel. To avoid this, here is my hack: (DONE)

After doing some research, I found that a TH400 was offered with the NP203 in some trucks. The location of the shift shaft on the TH400 is about 2-2.5" farther back from the bellhousing than on a TH350, which makes it just about right for a 700R4. I used the shifter and the two rods from a TH400/NP203 combo (found on eBay). I had to modify one of the rods slightly to clear the transmission pan, but no big deal. Now, the shifter sits correctly in the tunnel, just as it did with the TH350.

I'll update progress on this in my build thread, here:
 

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59840Surfer

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good point i didnt think about that. a th350 vs 700r4 will have a very different first gear too, so the rear ratio could probably come down to 3.20 and be pleasant to drive still. but if you like big tires you could keep your likely 3.73 or whatever stock ;)
I know you forgot that the 700R4 has a numerically HIGHER ratio in 1st/Low gear - compared to the 350 - right?

I am and have run 3.08:1 gears in my '86 for over 30 years and have no problems --- if you want "lower" gears, there's always 4/Low.

FTR: I haul an 18' 10,000 lb load of firewood over 75 miles one way - about 6 times a year as I gather firewood for my heating here in Montana. The gears are just fine.

As a freeway flyer, it's great and believe me, there's no slipping of 4th/OD and I have NO IDEA where anyone got that idea.

If any of the clutch material in an automatic transmission "slips" even once --- it's wasted. There will "maybe be" a 2nd time where it might get away with slipping --- but that's pushing your good fortune - hard! The results will be in the pan as burnt black sand.

Automatic transmissions do NOT slip and any misperception of that is caused by the torque converter absorbing the shock of the shifts and dropping into and out of TCC.

If you don't believe the shock of a shift in even a stock THM --- wire the TCC Apply Solenoid to a 12V toggle switch and leave it ON and ... after driving away from a Stop Sign, go back and pick up your teeth.

There's a lot of old wives tales out there ... don't believe them.
 

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I know you forgot that the 700R4 has a numerically HIGHER ratio in 1st/Low gear - compared to the 350 - right?

I am and have run 3.08:1 gears in my '86 for over 30 years and have no problems --- if you want "lower" gears, there's always 4/Low.

FTR: I haul an 18' 10,000 lb load of firewood over 75 miles one way - about 6 times a year as I gather firewood for my heating here in Montana. The gears are just fine.

As a freeway flyer, it's great and believe me, there's no slipping of 4th/OD and I have NO IDEA where anyone got that idea.

If any of the clutch material in an automatic transmission "slips" even once --- it's wasted. There will "maybe be" a 2nd time where it might get away with slipping --- but that's pushing your good fortune - hard! The results will be in the pan as burnt black sand.

Automatic transmissions do NOT slip and any misperception of that is caused by the torque converter absorbing the shock of the shifts and dropping into and out of TCC.

If you don't believe the shock of a shift in even a stock THM --- wire the TCC Apply Solenoid to a 12V toggle switch and leave it ON and ... after driving away from a Stop Sign, go back and pick up your teeth.

There's a lot of old wives tales out there ... don't believe them.
I could of swore the 700r4 has a better first gear than a th350? Maybe iim thinking of a 200r4 being nicer than a th350?
Transmissions most definitely do slip, and original transmissions before lockup conerters never stopped slipping either. The clutches were different materials and the heat load of the transmission was different.
Also, GM quite literally invented the PWM TCC lockup which under 99.99% of driving conditions will slip 5-150rpm AS DESIGN, they also invented the ECCC.
You must be registered for see images attach

im more inclined to think a feeling of slipping on a truck with a 700r4 in 4th or while still locked is experiencing chuggle or a misfire under load
 

NickTransmissions

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I know you forgot that the 700R4 has a numerically HIGHER ratio in 1st/Low gear - compared to the 350 - right?
First gear is irrelevant to the mechanical leverage problem at higher throttle angles that can occur in overdrive (4th gear) when paring an overdrive transmission with something like a 2.73 final drive ratio or less. The 3.08 to 1 FD is the tallest ratio that I have seen that still works with the .70-to-1 4th gear ratio when in OD without slipping under load; the factory equipped most vehicles with a 3.08 or 3.23-1 final drive or deeper when paired with the 700R4 or 4L60E. That said, towing in OD on grades is generally not advisable (not saying you do that, just putting it out there).

Additionally, a minor amount of clutch slippage can occur (which in the case of the 700R4/200-4R usually happens due to maladjusted TV cable on fresh rebuilds) without the transmission needing to come out due to clutch burn up but it has to be caught and fixed quick immediately otherwise irreparable damage will definitely occur.

I could of swore the 700r4 has a better first gear than a th350? Maybe iim thinking of a 200r4 being nicer than a th350?
700R4 gears are as follows:

1st - 3.06-1
2nd - 1.63-1
3rd - 1-1
4th .70-1

200-4R gears are as follows
1st - 2.54
2nd - 1.57
3rd - 1-1
4th - .67-1

TH350:
1st - 2.52-1
2nd - 1.52-1
3rd - 1-1

When it comes to GMs medium duty overdrive transmissions, folks racing prefer the 200-4R's closer ratio spacing between 1st and 2nd gear over the 700R4's wide ratio as it's easier to stay in/close to the cam's peak power band during the 1-2 upshift whereas the 700R4/4L60E equipped vehicle has to work harder to overcome the greater amount of RPM drop that comes with the wider ratio...Sonnax has solved this problem with their close ratio 6-pinion billet planetary front gear set for the 700s/4L60Es, offering a 2.84-1.55 first to second gear that keeps engine RPMs up a bit upon shifting relative to the OEM front gear set.

Transmissions most definitely do slip, and original transmissions before lockup conerters never stopped slipping either. The clutches were different materials and the heat load of the transmission was different.

Also, GM quite literally invented the PWM TCC lockup which under 99.99% of driving conditions will slip 5-150rpm AS DESIGN, they also invented the ECCC.

im more inclined to think a feeling of slipping on a truck with a 700r4 in 4th or while still locked is experiencing chuggle or a misfire under load
The PWM is a graduated apply but once the TCC is fully applied, RPM slip should be 5 or less. I believe greater than 10RPM slip for two consecutive drive cycles when the TCC should be fully applied will trigger P1870 or P0894 in ODB2 year vehicles and ODB1 equivalent (not sure off-hand what the code number is for pre-1996).
 
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JBswth

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I know you forgot that the 700R4 has a numerically HIGHER ratio in 1st/Low gear - compared to the 350 - right?

I am and have run 3.08:1 gears in my '86 for over 30 years and have no problems --- if you want "lower" gears, there's always 4/Low.

FTR: I haul an 18' 10,000 lb load of firewood over 75 miles one way - about 6 times a year as I gather firewood for my heating here in Montana. The gears are just fine.

As a freeway flyer, it's great and believe me, there's no slipping of 4th/OD and I have NO IDEA where anyone got that idea.

If any of the clutch material in an automatic transmission "slips" even once --- it's wasted. There will "maybe be" a 2nd time where it might get away with slipping --- but that's pushing your good fortune - hard! The results will be in the pan as burnt black sand.

Automatic transmissions do NOT slip and any misperception of that is caused by the torque converter absorbing the shock of the shifts and dropping into and out of TCC.

If you don't believe the shock of a shift in even a stock THM --- wire the TCC Apply Solenoid to a 12V toggle switch and leave it ON and ... after driving away from a Stop Sign, go back and pick up your teeth.

There's a lot of old wives tales out there ... don't believe them.
He probably means the converter is trying to multiply torque, so the engine is revving higher than it would if he was on level ground.

J. B.
 

AuroraGirl

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I'm in the process of installing a 700R4 between a 400sbc/NP203 in my 76' K20. I went with Gearstar for the transmission and they built it to handle the torque (Level 3). I'm extremely happy with the kit and quality of the work so far. I haven't driven it yet, so that review will come later. I don't intend to drive it hard and no extreme off-road climbing, so I expect it will survive just fine. They made sure to install the output shaft needed to work with the NP203. The stock TH350 adapter works with the 700R4, so mounting it up was no problem. Gearstar also used the "K" case for the transmission, which is said to have beefier wall thickness.
I still wanted to add some support, so I found there was a support arm on some trucks/blazers that went from the side of the 203 T-Case (2 large 5/8" bolt holes) up to the bellhousing. This helps with the bending load on the transmission case. So, I sourced one (on eBay), and cut it in order to lengthen it. I used a piece of tube to sleeve it for the 2.5" extension. I fixtured it in place and then welded the sleeve to the support. (see attached image)

Overall list of issues to resolve: (my status)
* Resolve the output shaft compatibility with the NP203. In my case, Gearstar took care of this by installing the Advanced Adapters output shaft. (DONE)
* Trans to T-Case adapter: If you currently have a TH350, then you're good. If you have a TH400, then you'll need to source the correct adapter (ebay) (DONE)
* Cooling: There are a lot of opinions on how to cool a transmission. Gearstar provided a cooler in the kit and said DO NOT run the fluid through the radiator. Cooler only. (DONE)
* Gear selector/Shifter: I am not using the stock column, so I don't know if there are any issues with the number of detents for each gear in a stock column. I'm installing a retrofit Ididit column and it has the correct # of detents for the 4 gears. I also picked up the gear selector that will show correct for the 4 gears. (DONE)
* The front driveshaft will need to be "stretched" ~2.5", which means they'll need to install a new tube. (NOT DONE)
* The rear driveshaft will need to be shortened ~2.5". (NOT DONE)
* The transmission-T-Case crossmember sits back (you guessed it, ~2.5"), so new holes need to be drilled. Easy. (DONE)
* The stock shifter will sit ~2.5" back in the tunnel. To avoid this, here is my hack: (DONE)

After doing some research, I found that a TH400 was offered with the NP203 in some trucks. The location of the shift shaft on the TH400 is about 2-2.5" farther back from the bellhousing than on a TH350, which makes it just about right for a 700R4. I used the shifter and the two rods from a TH400/NP203 combo (found on eBay). I had to modify one of the rods slightly to clear the transmission pan, but no big deal. Now, the shifter sits correctly in the tunnel, just as it did with the TH350.

I'll update progress on this in my build thread, here:
make sure to use a structural bellhousing dust cover with your k case

on the column thing, you can retrofit a gm column with 4 speeds OR the parts that on the column itself make it show 4 speed, so iif you want to keep yours maybe one day stab it back in :)
First gear is irrelevant to the mechanical leverage problem at higher throttle angles that can occur in overdrive (4th gear) when paring an overdrive transmission with something like a 2.73 final drive ratio or less. The 3.08 to 1 FD is the tallest ratio that I have seen that still works with the .70-to-1 4th gear ratio when in OD without slipping under load; the factory equipped most vehicles with a 3.08 or 3.23-1 final drive or deeper when paired with the 700R4 or 4L60E. That said, towing in OD on grades is generally not advisable (not saying you do that, just putting it out there).

Additionally, a minor amount of clutch slippage can occur (which in the case of the 700R4/200-4R usually happens due to maladjusted TV cable on fresh rebuilds) without the transmission needing to come out due to clutch burn up but it has to be caught and fixed quick immediately otherwise irreparable damage will definitely occur.


700R4 gears are as follows:

1st - 3.06-1
2nd - 1.63-1
3rd - 1-1
4th .70-1

200-4R gears are as follows
1st - 2.54
2nd - 1.57
3rd - 1-1
4th - .67-1

TH350:
1st - 2.52-1
2nd - 1.52-1
3rd - 1-1

When it comes to GMs medium duty overdrive transmissions, folks racing prefer the 200-4R's closer ratio spacing between 1st and 2nd gear over the 700R4's wide ratio as it's easier to stay in/close to the cam's peak power band during the 1-2 upshift whereas the 700R4/4L60E equipped vehicle has to work harder to overcome the greater amount of RPM drop that comes with the wider ratio...Sonnax has solved this problem with their close ratio 6-pinion billet planetary front gear set for the 700s/4L60Es, offering a 2.84-1.55 first to second gear that keeps engine RPMs up a bit upon shifting relative to the OEM front gear set.


The PWM is a graduated apply but once the TCC is fully applied, RPM slip should be 5 or less. I believe greater than 10RPM slip for two consecutive drive cycles when the TCC should be fully applied will trigger P1870 or P0894 in ODB2 year vehicles and ODB1 equivalent (not sure off-hand what the code number is for pre-1996).
I dont think GM had PWM transmissions which used ALDL codes. The earliest I know them to have used them was 1994 and those models were the obd 1.5 which used a Pxxx code. However, since they were not officially obd2 complaiant, the definiiton of P codes in those 2 years actually can vary from car to car lol. apparently 1993 corvettes had it??
 

NickTransmissions

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make sure to use a structural bellhousing dust cover with your k case

on the column thing, you can retrofit a gm column with 4 speeds OR the parts that on the column itself make it show 4 speed, so iif you want to keep yours maybe one day stab it back in :)

I dont think GM had PWM transmissions which used ALDL codes. The earliest I know them to have used them was 1994 and those models were the obd 1.5 which used a Pxxx code. However, since they were not officially obd2 complaiant, the definiiton of P codes in those 2 years actually can vary from car to car lol. apparently 1993 corvettes had it??
PWM was introduced in 1995 for the 4L60Es so any ODB-1 TCC/component slipping codes would have applied for that year. Those codes were all two-digit codes without alpha-prefixes. 1993 vettes had 700r4s; they transitioned to 4L60Es in 94.
 

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PWM was introduced in 1995 for the 4L60Es so any ODB-1 TCC/component slipping codes would have applied for that year. Those codes were all two-digit codes without alpha-prefixes. 1993 vettes had 700r4s; they transitioned to 4L60Es in 94.
weird. i distinctly remember my uncles 95 vandura using the modern obd port, and having P- codes whii READ EHO
 

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