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Holley Issues Continue......

Discussion in 'Engine & Performance' started by Doppleganger, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. CoggedBelt75

    CoggedBelt75 Full Access Member

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    I agree with Andy on fixing something online. Don’t know what all has been done. Especially since it’s used. If taken apart, a gasket could’ve been turned wrong (yep, I’ve done this), blocking passageways that are suppose to be open. In your case, if no fuel is making it to the back bowl, it’s either float is sticking causing the needle and seat to close, or the needle itself is stuck closed. Of course this will not let the fuel enter the bowl. Mine usually stick open occasionally and all it usually takes is a few light hammer taps on the adjustment screw and nut. Might try that to see what happens. Still no fuel, pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner and reset float. To me, that’s all that controls the fuel entering the bowls.
     
  2. Doppleganger

    Doppleganger Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    I did get the bowls to fill -their level is just below the window.....if I shake the truck it dribbles out. I think what I need to check (among many other things) is the accelerator pump and the fuel / volume. The original quadrajet I had rebuilt. Guy told me the bowls were full of dirt - to change or clean my tanks. I have new tanks (w/baffles) for a TBI swap. What I'm wondering if there is debris that is in the fuel line and restricting it that way. Also have to find where the filter is (if there even is one the way Capt Cobbler did this thing) and change it too. Heck, it could be plugged.

    I have 2 new mechanical pumps - got a great deal last year so bagged 2 of them. Will probably swap it out anyways as I dont know what brand or where the one on it came from (can tell it was replaced), as well as the line from the pump to the carb.

    I just needed it to get by this year so I can literally gut the truck to a shell and start over next year. No shop large enough to do it in so gotta be in the mild months. It has never been solid-reliable since I got it so no doubt there's alot to find and redo. I restore older Euro cars (not by choice - lol) - have my last one just back from paint yesterday and another almost done that HAVE to be done and gone this year, so not alot of time to keep messing with this truck. I'm used to the atypical previously owned vehicles and how cobbed or butchered they usually are. I love the truck but for time's sake wish I had never gotten it at this point.

    Just amazes me that no shops even know how to do any of this anymore.
     
  3. bucket

    bucket Super Moderator Staff Member

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    One thing you can try is removing the fuel line that feeds the pump, then blowing compressed air into it. Just a small amount of air, you don't want to really blast it. If anything is lodged in there, it may come loose. If it runs better after that, you know you need to take the lines out and clean/replace.
     
  4. Doppleganger

    Doppleganger Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Does it go back to the tank-switch solenoid? When the pump is off would be a good time to do that.
     
  5. Doppleganger

    Doppleganger Supporting Member Supporting Member

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    Messed with it some this AM before planet Ohio drifted to a mile from the sun. Has great spark - timing is on the money. Has a newer distributor - has zero wear (inside of cap is clean as a bell too). Plugs are new.....they replaced the ORIGINALS (no sht) about 10 days ago.

    The accelerator pump works fine but the cam that makes it work is too small IMO and doesn't push it down enough.

    The pump the PO replaced is getting deep-6'd. Have a new one to go on. The fuel lines are all in excellent shape - this truck was a lifetime Oregon truck and has zero rust underneath. However, the short rubber lines that go from the hard lines to the pump look very original and very tired......like me! So going to replace those while its out too.

    See what that does if anything.
     
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  6. Brian Lynch

    Brian Lynch Junior Member

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    Have you tried capping the 2 open vacuum ports on the front side, under the primary bowl?
     
  7. MikeB

    MikeB Full Access Member

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    Odd that both carbs have similar issues. May be a vacuum leak or fuel starvation problem. Certainly not a Holley design issue. The carb in the picture looks like a #80457 which works pretty well on an engine like yours. I have the SA (aluminum version), and it's served me well for 4-5 years now. I did have to adjust the floats, and of course the choke and fast idle.

    Are you sure the carb is sealed to the spacer, and the spacer to the manifold? Those are common places for leaks.

    Is the vacuum advance canister OK, or does it leak? Check by sucking on the hose connected to it. Same for the brake booster.

    Speaking of hoses, make sure there are no slits in any of them.

    Finally, check ignition advance at idle, and then make sure it increases as RPMs increase.

    All that said, you could have a fuel delivery problem. A pressure gage would come in handy. I'd be looking for 4"- 6"
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019 at 11:47 AM

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