HELP!!! Ignition Switch Nightmare

[R8rPhan]

73 C10.. Most of the way through a complete rewire...

Starting to put the dash back together..

Can't seem to figure out how to install the new ignition switch..

All you tube searches about replacing ignition switch result in how to's on replacing the lock cylinder... Nothing on installing a new 'switch'

The new switch and old switch are identical, except that the new one also has an opening on the bottom to accept the rod from the lock cylinder... This seems like it is how things should be, seeing as the rod is turned straight up on the switch end.. But when I install the rod into that hole, the switch is way too far towards the driver to use the mounting holes (have tried it in every switch position)..

The old switch does not have this opening, only one on the side.. If I use the side opening, then the bolt holes appear to be where they should, except that the rod end is pointing up, not sideways...

Strange thing is, the old switch does not have the opening on the bottom, so it must have used the side opening...

If I try to use the side opening on the new switch, well of course, the switch is now laying over on it's side, and would require a lot of tension to twist it over far enough to bolt it back onto the steering column...

I don't remember the thing being under tension when I took the old one off... The manual is of no help as it just says to make sure the lock cylinder and the switch is in the 'lock' position before installing...

In the following picture notice how the rod that actuates the switch is turned up... This appears to jive with pictures and diagrams I can find of how the rod should look... In the picture, it is positioned approximately between the two mounting holes for the switch...

Now, in the following 4 pictures, notice that the new switch (on top) is identical to the old one (on bottom) in every way, except that the new one 'also' has access to the rod hole on the bottom (which would help were the mounting holes to line up when I use the bottom hole, except they don't.. not even close)

Notice how in the picture below, that the new switch has an additional opening on the bottom of it's frame, allowing access to the rod hole on the bottom of the switch as well...

I fussed with this for at least an hour last night, and have no idea what the deal is... I'm sure it's simple once you know the secret, but I need to be let in on it from someone that understands what is going on here...

Thanks,
Mark

 

[R8rPhan]

Never mind!!!!

Dumbassery on my part...

A night's sleep and a fresh look, and it goes in super easy..

If I had only taken a picture before I took it apart, I would have seen the error of my ways instantly..

I'm usually pretty good about the picture thing, but I guess not this time..

Thanks anyways..
Just glad it's resolved..
Now back to the rewire...

 

[75gmck25]

On a side note:
Did you also need to fix the ignition "rack" that is connected to the top of the rod, on the end of the ignition switch? That little pot metal rack is one of the cheapest parts in the truck, but requires all kinds of column disassembly to replace. And if its broken or cracked you can never get the key to properly activate the ignition switch you just mounted on the lower column.

Bruce

 

[R8rPhan]

On a side note:
Did you also need to fix the ignition "rack" that is connected to the top of the rod, on the end of the ignition switch? That little pot metal rack is one of the cheapest parts in the truck, but requires all kinds of column disassembly to replace. And if its broken or cracked you can never get the key to properly activate the ignition switch you just mounted on the lower column.

Bruce

Naw, mine is fine.. In fact, everything feels a little tighter.. less sloppy now...

I'm still doing the rewire, so I can't say for sure everything is perfect, but you can feel the switch snap between keep positions nice and precisely...