Gm quick disconnect and water flow reducer

[Jawzjeep]

I've read these are a pain to get out of the intake. Anyone have a special prayer that works? Or some kind of voodoo? When/if i get it out and go to a barbed fitting, what do I do for a reducer? I read that hitting the throttle hard could send too much pressure to my heater core.

I deleted my rear heat and now have my supply line into firewall then out from firewall to radiator. Guess that created an always hot heater core since my bypass valve is gone now too. So just add a ball valve or something on the supply line before it hits the firewall?

Would the ball valve then act as a reducer to lessen the flow if I close it a little?

Thanks

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Heat and lube, a butane bottle plumber torch should work just fine on an aluminum intake, probably fine for cast too. Heat the intake not the fitting.

These trucks never came with a bypass valve to the heater core. Unless 88-91 stuff did. Depending on your useage and climate I would just leave the routing alone, no bypass, and get rid of the dumb and always leaking quick connect fitting.

The reducer should be built into the barb fitting. A few of us swapped out to full flow fittings(big smart guys) and haven't had an issue but it's not right, and could cause issues with an older heater core. The heat may get even hotter with the designed restriction.

 

[bucket]

'89-'91 Burbs with factory-installed rear heater got a bypass valve. Dealer installed setups did not.

 

[Jawzjeep]

Appreciate the tip, thanks. @PrairieDrifter
The heater core is pretty new so I'll just leave it full flow until there's an issue then.

For context, 91 with factory rear heat. I can be wrong but the valve I removed I thought bypassed the rear heater only. The rear stuff is long gone and so is the memory of how it was.

 

[Turbo4whl]

I've read these are a pain to get out of the intake. Anyone have a special prayer that works? Or some kind of voodoo?

After you cut the fitting right at the top of the hex drive, use a 6-point flank drive socket. Here is where you pray and hope the Lord hears your prayer. Now, if it breaks off the next step is this: Brand-new fine-tooth hacksaw blade. Put the blade in a vise, hit the blade with a hammer near the vise, it will snap in two. Take one piece and wrap tape around the round mounting end. Now you have a new handmade cutting tool.

Here is your Voodoo, you have a tool no one sells. Carefully cut the pot metal fitting inside the hole, stop cutting when you hit the steel. Make several cuts or at least two. Last step, use a chisel to push the cut pieces into the center. Small cape chisel works best.

Note, fitting should be soaked with PB blaster or Kroil for a day before attacking the project. This method has been proven several times. Pipe tap to clean up the intake coolant port of any remaining pot metal.

 

[bucket]

After you cut the fitting right at the top of the hex drive, use a 6-point flank drive socket. Here is where you pray and hope the Lord hears your prayer. Now, if it breaks off the next step is this: Brand-new fine-tooth hacksaw blade. Put the blade in a vise, hit the blade with a hammer near the vise, it will snap in two. Take one piece and wrap tape around the round mounting end. Now you have a new handmade cutting tool.

Here is your Voodoo, you have a tool no one sells. Carefully cut the pot metal fitting inside the hole, stop cutting when you hit the steel. Make several cuts or at least two. Last step, use a chisel to push the cut pieces into the center. Small cape chisel works best.

Note, fitting should be soaked with PB blaster or Kroil for a day before attacking the project. This method has been proven several times. Pipe tap to clean up the intake coolant port of any remaining pot metal.

I like to use the small pieces of hacksaw blades in my little air saw, when there's room for it.

But yeah, that's essentially the same method I've always used and it works well.

 

[bucket]

Appreciate the tip, thanks. @PrairieDrifter
The heater core is pretty new so I'll just leave it full flow until there's an issue then.

For context, 91 with factory rear heat. I can be wrong but the valve I removed I thought bypassed the rear heater only. The rear stuff is long gone and so is the memory of how it was.

Yeah, the bypass is just for the rear heat.