Fuel line too close to exhaust

[CalSgt]

Do you know what a heat shield is? Before I'd wrap anything I'd make a heat shield that bolted to the frame rail between the exhaust and the fuel lines,fuel pump. Here is something else to consider,a liquid under vacuum boils at a lower point than a liquid under pressure. We pressurize radiators to raise the boiling point,we vacuum air conditioning systems to boil out the water. The least line you have under vacuum and the most line you have under pressure minimizes your chances of boilng the fuel.

^^^^
I made a heat shield from an old aluminum highway sign zero out of pocket

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[bucket]

They make filters for pulling through. Some manufacturers won't warranty a pump unless you use one. It is not as fine a mesh as you'd use for the carbureator. I use the biggest one I can find,stood at an angle,so it acts as a reservoir so the pump inlet always a pool of fuel with a tiny bit of head pressure to prevent pump dry starts.

After a recent issue on Power Tour, I'll never use a pre filter with a mechanical pump again. Unless the filter media is so coarse that it classifies more as a strainer.

I found out that if a pre-filter clogs up at speed, it can actually cause the mechanical pump to rupture the diaphragm. Next thing you know, there's fuel dumping everywhere and about 4 gallons of fuel gets wasted in 10-15 miles.

And yes, I do know for sure which problem happened first. First I lost power. I found the filter was completely plugged, so I bypassed it. The pump was not leaking when I did that. I drove off and had all my power back, but waiting to turn out, I noticed it was idling a bit off. Hit some slow traffic down the road and noticed my idle was still low and rough. Popped the hood to bump the idle screw up, found fuel spewing everywhere out of the pump body.

 

[Ricko1966]

After a recent issue on Power Tour, I'll never use a pre filter with a mechanical pump again. Unless the filter media is so coarse that it classifies more as a strainer.

I found out that if a pre-filter clogs up at speed, it can actually cause the mechanical pump to rupture the diaphragm. Next thing you know, there's fuel dumping everywhere and about 4 gallons of fuel gets wasted in 10-15 miles.

And yes, I do know for sure which problem happened first. First I lost power. I found the filter was completely plugged, so I bypassed it. The pump was not leaking when I did that. I drove off and had all my power back, but waiting to turn out, I noticed it was idling a bit off. Hit some slow traffic down the road and noticed my idle was still low and rough. Popped the hood to bump the idle screw up, found fuel spewing everywhere out of the pump body.

I've never seen a mechanical pump where it was stated you had to use a prepump filter,but it's real common with electric pumps,no filter,no warranty, IDK why. Interesting to add to the conversation,I had a sand car with a faucet electric pump,no filter between the tank and the pump. It died in the sand dunes.I could hear the pump wasn't running,my whole group I'm like give me something to hit the pump with,come on someone has to have something,a rock. Come on Rick we are in the sand dunes where are we going to get a rock. Get back to camp, I pull the fuel line off the pump outlet,power up the pump,nothing,hit it with a wrench and it started pumping slowly like a dog turd made of sand,silt and gasoline pumped out,I let it keep pumping a minute,put a filter before the pump,problem solved. But that was an electric pump and also recommended by the manufacturer.It was interesting to watch compressed sand pump out of a fuel pump. Thinking about it now the clearances and design of a mechanical pump,which uses a diaphragm and jiggle valves,vs.a piston type or rotary vane pump are way different.

Pre and Post Pump Fuel Filter Considerations:

Most mechanics know that almost every fuel system has two fuel filters. These two filters serve two very different purposes and therefore have very different attributes. While everyone thinks about

fuelab.com

 

[Shields]

All valid solutions but the pipe guard would be first class!
Looks like if he just get it tucked up against the top of the rail and a metal filter would be quite a ways away.
So let’s see the truck. It looks clean!

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I know this isn’t the proper thread…but since you asked for it . I bought the truck 7 years ago for $500, it was a rust bucket but it had a good frame and good papers. Swapped the V6 and th350 out for a 383 and a Super T10 that I pulled from a 78’ trans am and put a belltech 5/7 lowering kit on it. I finished painting the truck last summer and also finished welding up the dual exhaust, now I’m wrapping up the small things like some wiring issues, fuel line, cab roof lights etc. I have hundreds of photos and videos documenting everything I’ve done, I’ve been meaning to put together a build thread on this website but haven’t gotten around to it.

 

[Shields]

Do you know what a heat shield is? Before I'd wrap anything I'd make a heat shield that bolted to the frame rail between the exhaust and the fuel lines,fuel pump. Here is something else to consider,a liquid under vacuum boils at a lower point than a liquid under pressure. We pressurize radiators to raise the boiling point,we vacuum air conditioning systems to boil out the water. The least line you have under vacuum and the most line you have under pressure minimizes your chances of boilng the fuel.

I’m going to get some aluminum sheet from princess auto and do exactly that, there’s already two holes on the bottom of the frame so it should work perfectly.

 

[Tyger13us]

I live in Ut and it gets really hot here like VEGAS, im using a GM rotary self regulating electric pump.
my truck has twin tanks, i mounted the fuel pump as close to the tank selector valve as possible. the pump has a built in mettle mesh screen. Fuel PUMPS dont suck worth a damn,, THEY PUMP. ya want FULL flow to the pump.

i ran the 3/8 steel line up to where the frame starts to curve upwards, used a piece of High pressure FUEL LINE 3/8 rubber line in between the 2 3/8's mettle lines (reason being i dont want the heat from under the truck traveling up the fuel line) and then ran it up to where it would go to a mechanical pump.

so i could use it in a pinch if the electric pump died,, ran the same 3/8's high pressure fuel line up to about first valve cover bolt, then a 3 outlet mettle fuel filter then to the carb.

then i ran a 1/4 fuel hose down to the vent 1/4 steel line where the smog canister used to go.
then to the tank sending unit vent line,, dont worry the lil 1/4 inch line wont drop the fuel pressure enough to worry about.

NEVER USE THEM glass type cool looking ones that screw together or PLASTIC fuel filters,, you wont like it if they leak.. ive seen um burn to the ground with those filters.

I say, NEVER use a clickity clack fuel pump,, it heats up the fuel and turns it to vapor. then it pushes lil air bubbles out of them type of pumps mixed with the gas......

there is a check valve in the sending unit, I have the 2 line sending unit not the 3 line.

so i removed the check valve in the tank sending unit, so the small fuel return line fuel will go back in to the tank, which makes a fuel re-circulation system, the pump, pumps cool fuel up to the carb, then out the lil 1/4 line (3rd one on the filter out) and back to the tank to keep the fuel COOL.

Also i swapped the R sending unit to the left side and the left sending unit to the right side.
Why the hell did i do that?

so the pick up tube point to the rear of the tank so when i STAND on it the fuel goes to the rear of the tank where the pick up tube can still pick up fuel with out starvation, it also helps when 4x4 climbing steep mountains..

i removed the Sock and added a piece of injection FUEL LINE 3/8's rubber line to the pick up tube so its at the back of the tank and can reach the fuel back there. depending on the size of the tank of course the length of the hose will vary, just make sure its not jammed in to the rear of the tank, leave a lil room, an inch or so will do.

USE only FUEL LINE, i use the green labeled, i think its gates hose, all the crap in the Fuel now daze will EAT PLAIN OLE RUBBER LINE...

Also? the fuel re-circulation fuel system will pick up all the ethanol on the bottom of the tank after sitting, gas floats to the top leaving all the crap they put in gas on the bottom and mixes it up, it makes it run better faster then just running on the crap in the gas they add on the bottom of the tank till it gets mixed while driving around.

Last but not least!! If your running a carb, which im guessing, take the gas cap off and drill the TINIEST hole in the vent in the center of the Gas cap...needle sized.

That keeps the tank under NO pressure and still vented.
If not it will push the fuel past the needle and seat in the carb and run rich as the fuel/tank is heating up,

it will also stop the fuel dribble in the carb when you park and shut it off (no tank pressure) making it hard to start because of the fuel puddling in to the intake.

That vent in the gas cap is a one way valve, it will let the air into the tank? But it wont let out the pressure, making the tank pressurized and make it flood and hard to start after driving around and everything is hot.

A carb should never have more than 5-6 pound of fuel pressure, some carbs are as low as 3 pound and with 3/8 steel line?
it will have plenty of Volume..

I built my truck ground up also...

I know its long, BUT IT WORKS..... Old race car tricks.

If using FI then dont use the vented the cap trick. FI dont care if the tank has pressure in it or not..

now to proof read, so i got all this straight and got it right.

 

[JBswth]

Sad Sack nailed it, 383. Technically a 385 as it's bored .40 over.

Always use CUBIC INCHES, not Litres.

 

[Shields]

I live in Ut and it gets really hot here like VEGAS, im using a GM rotary self regulating electric pump.
my truck has twin tanks, i mounted the fuel pump as close to the tank selector valve as possible. the pump has a built in mettle mesh screen. Fuel PUMPS dont suck worth a damn,, THEY PUMP. ya want FULL flow to the pump.

i ran the 3/8 steel line up to where the frame starts to curve upwards, used a piece of High pressure FUEL LINE 3/8 rubber line in between the 2 3/8's mettle lines (reason being i dont want the heat from under the truck traveling up the fuel line) and then ran it up to where it would go to a mechanical pump.

so i could use it in a pinch if the electric pump died,, ran the same 3/8's high pressure fuel line up to about first valve cover bolt, then a 3 outlet mettle fuel filter then to the carb.

then i ran a 1/4 fuel hose down to the vent 1/4 steel line where the smog canister used to go.
then to the tank sending unit vent line,, dont worry the lil 1/4 inch line wont drop the fuel pressure enough to worry about.

NEVER USE THEM glass type cool looking ones that screw together or PLASTIC fuel filters,, you wont like it if they leak.. ive seen um burn to the ground with those filters.

I say, NEVER use a clickity clack fuel pump,, it heats up the fuel and turns it to vapor. then it pushes lil air bubbles out of them type of pumps mixed with the gas......

there is a check valve in the sending unit, I have the 2 line sending unit not the 3 line.

so i removed the check valve in the tank sending unit, so the small fuel return line fuel will go back in to the tank, which makes a fuel re-circulation system, the pump, pumps cool fuel up to the carb, then out the lil 1/4 line (3rd one on the filter out) and back to the tank to keep the fuel COOL.

Also i swapped the R sending unit to the left side and the left sending unit to the right side.
Why the hell did i do that?

so the pick up tube point to the rear of the tank so when i STAND on it the fuel goes to the rear of the tank where the pick up tube can still pick up fuel with out starvation, it also helps when 4x4 climbing steep mountains..

i removed the Sock and added a piece of injection FUEL LINE 3/8's rubber line to the pick up tube so its at the back of the tank and can reach the fuel back there. depending on the size of the tank of course the length of the hose will vary, just make sure its not jammed in to the rear of the tank, leave a lil room, an inch or so will do.

USE only FUEL LINE, i use the green labeled, i think its gates hose, all the crap in the Fuel now daze will EAT PLAIN OLE RUBBER LINE...

Also? the fuel re-circulation fuel system will pick up all the ethanol on the bottom of the tank after sitting, gas floats to the top leaving all the crap they put in gas on the bottom and mixes it up, it makes it run better faster then just running on the crap in the gas they add on the bottom of the tank till it gets mixed while driving around.

Last but not least!! If your running a carb, which im guessing, take the gas cap off and drill the TINIEST hole in the vent in the center of the Gas cap...needle sized.

That keeps the tank under NO pressure and still vented.
If not it will push the fuel past the needle and seat in the carb and run rich as the fuel/tank is heating up,

it will also stop the fuel dribble in the carb when you park and shut it off (no tank pressure) making it hard to start because of the fuel puddling in to the intake.

That vent in the gas cap is a one way valve, it will let the air into the tank? But it wont let out the pressure, making the tank pressurized and make it flood and hard to start after driving around and everything is hot.

A carb should never have more than 5-6 pound of fuel pressure, some carbs are as low as 3 pound and with 3/8 steel line?
it will have plenty of Volume..

I built my truck ground up also...

I know its long, BUT IT WORKS..... Old race car tricks.

If using FI then dont use the vented the cap trick. FI dont care if the tank has pressure in it or not..

now to proof read, so i got all this straight and got it right.

Impressive write-up, thank you very much for the info. I’m going to save your comment, can’t ever have too much advice when it comes to hotrod tips and tricks.

 

[Shields]

Always use CUBIC INCHES, not Litres.

We use a b@stard system of metric and standard in Canada. “You’re looking for the gas station? Yeah it’s about half a kilometer up the road then take a right about 50 feet after the mailboxes”

 

[Shields]

Hey everyone, finished it up. Was helping my buddy fix his truck outside of his dad’s fab shop, he whipped me up a heat shield. I welded some nuts on it so it’s an easy re and re when I have to replace the filter. I got an aluminum 100 micron filter from Earls and swapped it in, then I covered the line and filter with some heat wrap for some more protection. Overall happy with it and I’m not concerned about the heat from the muffler. Thank you everyone for the comments!

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